Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Need Help with a Model Power E7A

4585 views
19 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Need Help with a Model Power E7A
Posted by RR_Mel on Friday, October 2, 2015 5:49 AM

I have an early Model Power E7A with a cracked axle gear, does anyone know what axles can be used for a replacement.  There are a lot of Model Power clunker diesels listed on eBay that I could use for spare parts if I knew which trucks or axles are interchangeable.
 
I’m in the process of overhauling several Model Power E7s with can motors and DCC decoders and this is the only one with a problem.
 
 
Many Thanks in advance!
 
Mel
 
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,014 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Friday, October 2, 2015 6:39 AM

Mel, l have no personal experience with Model Power locos, but your question about the trucks and the truck gears interested me.

Have you seen this link?

http://www.magicicada.org/cooley/trains/Model_Power_E.html

The article seems to suggest that several Model Power E-units may have interchangeable trucks.

The article also suggests that NorthWest Short Line makes replacements for some of the gears.

Hope this helps.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Northfield Center TWP, OH
  • 2,508 posts
Posted by dti406 on Friday, October 2, 2015 7:41 AM

I believe the E7's were made by Roco and the same gears were used in the Model Power FA and Shark and the early Atlas/Roco engines SD24, SD35, GP38, GP40 and FP7.  I used some gears from an Atlas GP40 to fix my Model Power FA.

But I never took apart an E7 so I may not be correct, it would have been good if you took a picture of the gears and wheel assembly to see if they were compatible.

Rick Jesionowski

Rule 1: This is my railroad.

Rule 2: I make the rules.

Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Friday, October 2, 2015 10:51 AM

Thanks guys!
 
Yes Rich, I have that site bookmarked.  Lots of good info!
 
Sorry Rick for not including pictures.  I know better too!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The Model Power axle measures 1.97mm Diameter and an Athearn Axle measures 2.35mm, the gear tooth count and outside diameter (7.09mm) is the same for both gears.
 
I made an attempt at gluing it.  I slightly widened the crack then used CA in the crack and compressed the gear.  I gave it about 30 minutes to fully cure then drilled the center out to 2mm for a slip fit and used a toothpick to apply CA on the axle.  My fix worked but under load I can still hear a slight click.
 
Both the Athearn and the Model Power wheels measure the same.
 
 
Mel
 
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Northfield Center TWP, OH
  • 2,508 posts
Posted by dti406 on Friday, October 2, 2015 12:14 PM

Mel,

Those are the same gears that came in the ROCO engines I mentioned so any of the wheels with the gears should fit, I have a bunch of spare parts for the Atlas engines at home and may have some gears and or wheel/gear assemblies.  I wil check tonight and let you know.

Gluing the gear will never work, the crack has also altered the pitch of the gear so it will be off anyway even after you tried gluing it.

Rick Jesionowski

Rule 1: This is my railroad.

Rule 2: I make the rules.

Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,014 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Friday, October 2, 2015 1:01 PM

Mel, that photo of the gears and your comment about the similarity to Athearn wheels makes me wonder if the Athearn gears (#60024) would fit your Model Power loco.

Also, have you checked with NorthWest Short Line?  They supposedly make replacements for some of the gears.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Detroit, Michigan
  • 2,284 posts
Posted by Soo Line fan on Friday, October 2, 2015 1:40 PM

That is a 10t axle gear used for many years by atlas, mp and roco. Nwsl does sell a replacement but they are common on ebay.

Athearn uses a 2.4 mm axle and the atlas / model power is 2.0mm.

Jim

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Friday, October 2, 2015 2:41 PM

richhotrain

Mel, that photo of the gears and your comment about the similarity to Athearn wheels makes me wonder if the Athearn gears (#60024) would fit your Model Power loco.

Also, have you checked with NorthWest Short Line?  They supposedly make replacements for some of the gears.

Rich

 

Rich, I tried an Athearn gear on the Model Power axle and it’s loose as a goose.
 
The Model Power axle measures 1.97mm Diameter and an Athearn Axle measures 2.35mm.  Coming up with a 1mm shim and assembling it would be tough for me.  I’m all 78 year old thumbs.
 
I’m hoping that Rick can come up with a spare axle.
 
Thanks for all the input, I stumbled onto the Model Power E7s by accident and now I really like them.  I bought my first one just to get the shell.  It had a Cary E7A metal shell and I wanted it for an Athearn SD40-2 frame.  I tossed the Model Power frame in a box and was cleaning and tossing junk when I decided to see how that huge motor and flywheel worked before I sent it to the County Landfill.  It just amazed me how nice it ran.  I slapped an old Proto shell on it and put it in service.  It ran better than the Proto 2000 and I’ve never looked back.  I now have four Model Power E7As and two E7Bs.  Before you tell me Model Power didn’t make a E7B your correct.  I found two very nicely kitbashed Model Power E7B shells on eBay.
 
I have remotored them with Canon EN series motors and converted them to DCC, they all run great with lots of towing power.  The one I’m currently working on will be a E7A pusher for my video camera carrying Kitbashed E7A dummy running A-A.  I also use a pair of Model Power E7Bs to tow my SP Daylight 10 car passenger train while pushing the Camera loco as a A-B-B configuration.
 
Isn’t model railroading fun?
 
Mel
 
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
  • Member since
    April 2011
  • 649 posts
Posted by LensCapOn on Friday, October 2, 2015 4:09 PM

RR_Mel

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Looking at that photo, if all else fails you may be able to swap the center axel for the far axel. (Also remove a spur gear) That would give you 5 driven axels out of 6.

 

Prior posts have given good advice and offers, so it shouldn't come to this.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Friday, October 2, 2015 6:22 PM

LensCapOn

 

 

Prior posts have given good advice and offers, so it shouldn't come to this.

 

 

Actually the cracked gear was on the end but my patch job works better in the middle.  I only hear a slight click with it in the middle, with it on either end I can feel the crack.
 
The locomotive is usable with my patch job but I’d feel more warm and fuzzy with a non cracked gear.
 
Before my patch the locomotive wasn’t usable at all so I have made a bit of headway.  
 
Mel
 
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Saturday, October 3, 2015 1:22 AM

The Proto 0-8-0 uses a similar style axle gear (though obviously a different size) and I repaired the crack in mine by reaming out some brass tubing (don't recall the actual size, but it was a common number- or letter-size drill bit).  I sliced two thin segments off the drilled-out tube, then pressed them onto the shoulders of the gear while the split was held in compression.  I didn't bother using glue, as it wouldn't stick to the plastic anyway.

As for Model Power E7Bs, yeah, you have to roll your own.  This one was made from two A-units, along with some modified body panels.  I used photos and drawings from the November '86 and March '87 issues of Mainline Modeler, and painted it for my own road:

Some of the Model Power E-units had a rattle at low speeds, and on mine, I traced it to a loose fit in the u-joints of the drive train.  Shims of .005" styrene in the slots of the female joint cured the problem.  These were very smooth-running locos, and that fat can motor could handle all sorts of additional weight for increased pulling power.

Wayne

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Saturday, October 3, 2015 10:20 AM

Wayne
 
Thanks for the brass tubing idea, I’ll give that a shot!
 
I was searching for E7a shells to make a B when I stumbled on two already done.
 
  
They looked very good in the eBay pictures (above) and they were even better than the pictures when I got them.
 
I did my thing and this is what I ended up with.
 
 
I need to paint the flywheels flat black.
 
Most of the mechanisms did rattle when I got them but the combination of the dual shaft Canon motor and NWSL universals cured the rattle completely.
 
This is my current project in progress, a pair of Model Power E7As.  The one on the left is a pusher for the camera on the right.  The A on the left is the one with the cracked gear.  The A on the right is basicly a Proto dummy with a Model Power shell.
 
 
The decoder in the rear pusher will control the motor and the camera with it’s LED lighting in the front dummy.  F3 turns on and off the camera and F4 controls four 5mm 30K mcd super bright LEDs (150,000 mcd with the headlight on) behind the dummy cab windshield.  I wired the pusher DCC normal with the rear light controlling the headlight in the dummy front unit.
 
The older Model Power E7s cleanup nicely and run very good, their heavy frame make them a good puller too.
 
I’m working on a simple LED MARS light that will go in all my E7s, so far so good . . . . looks more realistic than the Proto duel filament bulb.
 
Mel
 
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: North Dakota
  • 9,592 posts
Posted by BroadwayLion on Saturday, October 3, 2015 11:04 AM

 

There comes a time in the live of every locomotive (1:87 or 1:1) when the time comes to make it part of a static display, either in a station somewhere, or as a stripped down rusting hulk in the back shop. Rather than try to fix the locomotive, I might look to transplant the car body to a working chassis.

ROAR

The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.

Here there be cats.                                LIONS with CAMERAS

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Saturday, October 3, 2015 12:49 PM

BroadwayLion

 

There comes a time in the live of every locomotive (1:87 or 1:1) when the time comes to make it part of a static display, either in a station somewhere, or as a stripped down rusting hulk in the back shop. Rather than try to fix the locomotive, I might look to transplant the car body to a working chassis.

ROAR

 
 
I want to thank everyone for their input and ideas to remedy my problem but I have given up on fixes, I will need to find a genuine Model Power/Roco gear to fix this E7.

 

This has been a good learning experience, it nothing else I’m getting better at taking pictures in Macro mode.

 

I took a close up of a Proto 2000 gear mainly to be able to count the teeth correctly, I kept coming up with 12 on the Proto/Athearn gears so I took a picture.

 

  
 
I failed to take a picture of the Model Power gear before I reassembled truck but it’s a 10 tooth gear.

 

I did a redo on my Super Glue job of the cracked gear and greatly improved it in reverse but it made the clicking slightly worse in forward.  My primary use will be in reverse pushing my camera toting A unit so no bid deal at the present time.

 

Mr. Lion I happen to really like my old Junkers and it’s not time to replace it.  No offence intended!  I just haven’t had much luck with newer products.  Most of them have spent more time getting repaired at the factory than layout time.  I’m sure glad of Bachmann’s warranty policy.  I gave up on many other so called warranties.  Besides I have a lot of fun fixing up clunkers to work as good as or better than new.

 

I only have eight locomotives left that were bought new out of my fleet 65.  Five of the eight had to be returned for repair.  One went back to the factory four times and it never worked out of the box when I received it.  I finally fixed it myself.  Over the years I got rid of the newer locomotives that gave me problems and went to buying manly used Athearn Blue Box and Rivarossi articulateds.

 

I’m old and decrepit and so are my trains, our time is comming . . . . we will both be part of a static display soon!

 

Thanks Again Guys

 

 
Mel

 

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 195

 

My Model Railroad   
 

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
  • 15,581 posts
Posted by hon30critter on Saturday, October 3, 2015 11:53 PM

Mel:

I spent some time looking at your blog. It is very interesting and very well done.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Sunday, October 4, 2015 4:44 AM

hon30critter

Mel:

I spent some time looking at your blog. It is very interesting and very well done.

Dave

 

Thank you very much Dave!
 
Just incase you missed it I’m really into Southern Pacific.  With old age setting in it’s about the only thing I can do without something hurting.
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
My Model Railroad   
Bakersfield, California
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
  • Member since
    June 2005
  • 4,352 posts
Posted by Darth Santa Fe on Sunday, October 4, 2015 9:25 AM

I'd also recommend the suggestion of making the E7 a 5-axle drive until you can find a replacement gear. It'll still have plenty of traction, and there'll be no more clicking. Real E units only had 4 axles driven anyway!Big Smile

_________________________________________________________________

  • Member since
    September 2002
  • From: North Carolina
  • 1,904 posts
Posted by csxns on Sunday, October 4, 2015 1:56 PM

Years ago i had one Model Power E8 that leaned to one side never could run it leaning and a new LHS opened this was in 1980 and he ordered a E8 and sold me the trucks because they sold no parts and somewhere in the basement in boxes i have the old trucks.

Russell

  • Member since
    October 2013
  • 104 posts
Posted by ggnlars on Monday, October 5, 2015 8:18 PM

Have you found the geared wheel set you need?  I have a Roco based E unit in my fix up line.  I also have several extra geared wheel sets that fit the E unit.  I checked to be sure they would work.  They appear to be in good shape.  They look just like those in the pictures above.  I would send you two for the cost of the shipping.  If your in the US that would be $3.  Let me know if your interested.

Larry

www.llxlocomotives.com

So many trains, so little time,

Larry

www.llxlocomotives.com

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Monday, October 5, 2015 9:16 PM

ggnlars

Have you found the geared wheel set you need?  I have a Roco based E unit in my fix up line.  I also have several extra geared wheel sets that fit the E unit.  I checked to be sure they would work.  They appear to be in good shape.  They look just like those in the pictures above.  I would send you two for the cost of the shipping.  If your in the US that would be $3.  Let me know if your interested.

Larry

www.llxlocomotives.com

 

I'll take you up on that, e-mail me at melvin.perry@hotmail.com

 

Mel Perry

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!