Any locomotive advertised in the model press, (Model Railroader) is fine, will last a long time. Locomotives come at widely varying prices. The pricier ones get you nicer paint jobs, and more fine details. For myself, if I like the looks of the locomotive, and the price isn't too high, and it runs (hobby shops and train show vendors will have a test track), I will buy it. Model locomotives are very long lived, not to worry about wearing out. For your first locomotive, I would recommend getting a runner, not a fixer upper, 'cause you want to see your trains run now, rather than after a lengthy locomotive rebuild operation. In the real world, steamers were pretty much gone by 1960, and even a low speed short line would be running diesel. Model diesels are more forgiving of track work flaws than model steamers. If you are a true lover of steamers, you could create a plausible legend explaining steam engine operation in the '60's, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you are really and truly a lover of steam engines.
For diesels in the 1960's, the common ones were EMD F-units, GP 7 and GP 9, Alco hood units, and Alco road switchers.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
How much space do you have for your layout? More space lets you have wider curves. Tight curves limit your choice of locomotives and cars, as they can't handle the turns and will derail.
That said, the 60s is the "sweet spot" for small engines and short freight cars, so if you're faithful to your era you should be OK running almost everything on even 18-inch radius HO track.
One thing you should decide on pretty soon is whether to use DC or DCC. This will make some difference in how you wire your layout. If you're going with DCC eventually, you'd might as well start with it. And, you will want to buy your engines with DCC on board. In the long run, that's generally cheaper than retrofitting, particularly if you fall in love with sound-equipped engines like I did.
You don't have to pay full price, by the way. Go to Trainworld (www.trainworldonline.com) or M.B. Klein (www.modeltrainstuff.com) for prices well below MSRP. My LHS actually gave me a better price than either of them the last time I bought a locomotive.
And now (the envelope, please) I will make my recommendation. Get a Bachmann GP-9 or F-7. Bachmann has come a long way in producing good locomotives, and they have kept their prices lower than most of the other manufacturers. The engines may not have the detail level of the high-end models, but Geeps and F-units never had much detail, anyway.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
MisterBeasleyGet a Bachmann GP-9 or F-7.
Many Bachmann locomotives these days come with a dual mode DCC decoder in them. This means it will run on either DC or DCC. Be aware that with this kind of decoder running on DC, the starting voltage will be high - maybe about half throttle on a typical DC power pack. Read the instructions to see how this kind of decoder works on DC running.
Another reason of buying a new loco rather than a fixer-upper is, if the fixer-upper stops, you don't really know if the problem is with the track or the loco. You know a new loco will run, and can use it to test your track work.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
" I would start with a smaller Four wheel switcher"
I think he meant four axle (eight wheels) not four wheels. The typical arrangement (for diesels) is a two axle truck at each end. These can invariably run on 18" radius track although larger radii look much better.
Welcome to the forums!
My first question is what type of locomotive do you like? The choice is up to you. Many modelers model a specific era and purchase locos from that time. There are also folks that see something they like and they run it. Another possibility is if you like modern diesels, but would like to have a steamer or two, just for different, call it an excursion train with a couple of older passenger cars.
Things most of us consider before getting too far into the hobby: era, location (city/country), also part of the country (eastern mountains, plains, desert, western mountains). These can make a difference if you want to follow a specific desire. As is often said, it's your railroad, do as YOU want.
If you come back here with some of your desires and a potential layout location (give dementions and things that have to be considered, posts, access to elec panels, appliances, the furnace) and type layout (shelf, table). There are a lot of folks here that will be able to give you some very good advise.
There are many good brands of locos and rolling stock, as has been mentioned above. You might benefit from reading one of our hosts introductory books before going too far. They are listed under SHOP on the black line near the top of this page.
Have fun,
Richard
I would get a new one. The problem with tinkering a used one is finding suitable parts.
Stick with DC if you're trying to keep costs down.
For your time period, diesels such as GP9, GP18, etc.would be appropriate.
Since your layout is a double tracked oval, I assume you want to run 2 trains at a time - so you'll need 2 engines. And a good book on wiring model railroads.
Good luck
Paul
I say get an Atlas diesel. Bowser (including the former Stewart line), Walthers, or Bachmann would also be good choices if you find one at a good price. As mentioned, it would be best to stick with a 4-axle unit until you decide to build a larger layout with broader curves. If you eventually decide to enlarge, then you might want to consider a 6 axle diesel at that time. Go for DC at first; you can always add a decoder later if you decide to go for DCC.
Most people choose road names that are familiar in their home area. That's up to you.
Tom
Pastor Ben
I would ask yourself some more questions before you make a purchase. Like some of the following questions :
What are you modeling ? A real railroad ? Or just anything you want to run ( refered to as free lance )? Is their a set time period you wish to model ? Steam era ? Steam to diesal transition ? Or diesal era ? What will the buisnesses be along the RR ? Coal ? Freight ? Logging ? Farm stock ? Many engines were built for a specific use or local.
On whether to buy used or new I would buy new. Many advantages. Warranties, latest techonolgy etc....
DC or DCC - If you can afford it I would go with DCC. It has so much more to offer and the wiring is simplier.
Last I would like to invite you over to Jeffries diner forum in the MRR forum. There the rules are not as strict and we can discuss off topic ( stuff other than RR items ) and you can wish people a good day , happy birthday etc... with out running into moderator troubles.
Welcome to MRR and looking forward to seeing you around.
YGW
Welcome.
Here's a list of EMD locos (there are others, Alco, etc) that shows build dates for each type.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_GM-EMD_locomotives
I also suggest to check out MBKlein (modeltrainstuff.com) as they are my first choice for many types of items. Good prices, good service).
On loco, if budget matters, suggest look at the 4-axle DC diesels as noted above. I see some 60's era GPs (if not GP7/9, GP30/35 fit then also): Bachmann's available at MBK for as low as $45, and some Athearns for as low as $70. I'm not as keen on Bachmann on initial reliability but worst case is send it in and they send a new replacement. But you may not find a road name you like.
Here's the Bachmann diesels at MBKlein:
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Diesel-Locomotives-HO-Scale-s/1460.htm?searching=Y&sort=3&cat=1460&show=30&page=1&brand=Bachmann
And the Athearn (RTR, not more detailed Genesis series) diesels:
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Diesel-Locomotives-HO-Scale-s/1460.htm?searching=Y&sort=3&cat=1460&show=30&page=1&brand=Athearn
If you think you might go DCC, at least get a "DCC ready one" that would allow you to add a $30 or so motor decoder (sound gets more pricey and needs space for a speaker).
My first purchase was a (UP) Athearn Genesis DCC w/sound GP9, which was great for setting up my layout. But it cost more, about $200 in 2012.
Good luck.
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Hello All,
I did a little research and I believe that the track plan you are referring to is the Atlas Track Package HO-6 The Trunk Line.
A double oval on a 4x8 layout with some spurs. Looks like a good starter plan!
Without the track plan I'm thinking the curves are probably a minimum of 18-inch radius.
Manufacturers will typically list the "Minimum Recommended Track Radus" for a specific locomotive given the type; diesel or steam, scale size and wheel arrangement. Look for this "guideline" when choosing motive power.
There are numerous other threads that discuss this subject in further detail just go back a few pages to peruse them.
Another thing to consider is are you modeling a specific railroad (prototype) or creating one of your own (freelancing) or a combination of the two (inspired by) or do you just want to run some trains and have locos that interest you?
The plan you chose is great for any of these options. Once you figure this out you can narrow down your choices...or not...
I model in the early 1980's so diesel is my primary motive type. I've also chosen a theme; coal, and a region; central Colorado, and road names; Buckskin & Platte, Denver & Rio Grand Western, Santa Fe, Union Pacific and the Royal Gorge.
On my pike I also have a steam engine that pulls an excursion train so it's not all diesel.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I would highly recommend Athearn. Their RTR line has nice SW1000 and SW1500s for your era. The rest is a bit to new. However their Genesis locomotives are super nice, the detail is amazing with small prototype specific details, and the locomotives are great runners. The price is a bit higher, but you get what you pay for. I have two SD70ACes that are defiantally my best locomotives, and the most run. The Genesis line has F units as well as GP7s, GP9s, and GP15s. I would recommend buying from your LHS (Local Hobby Shop) or Trainworld.com. There are a lot of items that are listed as out of stock on the Athearn website that online stores have at a lower price.
MisterBeasleyYou don't have to pay full price, by the way. Go to Trainworld (www.trainworldonline.com) or M.B. Klein (www.modeltrainstuff.com) for prices well below MSRP. My LHS actually gave me a better price than either of them the last time I bought a locomotive. And now (the envelope, please) I will make my recommendation. Get a Bachmann GP-9 or F-7. Bachmann has come a long way in producing good locomotives, and they have kept their prices lower than most of the other manufacturers. The engines may not have the detail level of the high-end models, but Geeps and F-units never had much detail, anyway.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Pastor BenI am new to model railroading and have a question: how do I know what kind of loco to choose? My layout is HO #6 The Trunk Line, setting will be the 60s south. I am just trying to figure out what type of locomotive to choose; should I buy a used one just to tinker with at first or should I go for a new one (I've seen the prices on some - yikes!). Just trying to get a handle on this stuff, going slowly. Any advice would be helpful.
Your choice of locomotive will depend on want you are modeling.
As examples.
If you are modeling a C&O branch line then GP7/9 would be your locomotive of choice since C&O used a large fleet of GP7 and GP9..
A freelance shortline could use any 4 Axel locomotive like a RS1,RS2,RS3 or a GP7/9.
New vs.used locomotives.
I would hazard a guess and say 70% of my locomotives was bought used and I have never had any issues with these locomotives.
As a example.I bought 2 used Life Like P2K SCL GP9s for $55.00 each and both was in mint condition.That's less then price of a new Genesis GP9 at street prices.For me 2 for the price of 1 was the better choice in spending my hobby budget.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
After some consideration, I'm going to refine my recommendation and say get a GP9 or GP7. These are "road switchers" and they could be seen on both main lines and in yards. From the cab, the crew can see both the front and the back, which makes them suitable for switching. An F7, on the other hand, has no rear visibility at all and is not suitable for yard work.
A GP7 looks like a GP9, other than a few spotting details that even most of us would not recognize. In the real world, there is a significant difference in horsepower, but you won't find that reflected in the models.