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Kato N E-8 Chassis Repair/Replace - Help

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  • Member since
    April 2014
  • 3 posts
Kato N E-8 Chassis Repair/Replace - Help
Posted by ESzczesniak on Tuesday, April 15, 2014 7:11 PM

I have a ABBA set of Kato E-8's for the UP City of LA.  I got the brilliant idea of trying to install a Digitrax sound decoder in one of the units, which involves "machining" a hole in the rear portion of the metal chasis.  I do not own a mill, but the available directions seemed to suggest one could easily drill this hole.

...Well, I didn't have such an easy time and fractured the chasis while doing this.  This was at the thin area of metal right between the rear weight and the truck mounting area.  I can't say for sure what causes this, but suspect I was simply putting too much assymetric force on this area while struggling to drill this whole (rather than machine). 

I have tried soldering, epoxying, and brazing these parts back together.  Some met with temporary success, but I've been unable to achieve a repair of sufficient strength for any real durability. 

So, does anyone have suggestions where I can get a replacement metal chassis or how to repair this one?  I do not see the chassis available for purchase through Kato making me suspect it is not available.  I hope to not have to purchase an all new engine just to get out of this mess.

Thanks for any and all help.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • 713 posts
Posted by trwroute on Wednesday, April 16, 2014 10:28 AM

You might try Aztec Mfg.  He has been doing this kind of stuff for years.  Looking at his site, the Kato E unit frame is exchange only, but I remember one time he was looking to buy some of these.  It might be worth a shot.

http://www.aztectrains.com/frames_2.html

 

Chuck - Modeling in HO scale and anything narrow gauge

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,706 posts
Posted by zstripe on Thursday, April 17, 2014 5:36 PM

ESzczesniak,

Welcome To The Forums.

If the frame is not distorted and does not need to flex at all, You can use, ZAP-A-GAP Medium CA+. Put in and on both ends of the joints. hold tightly for at least 15 seconds, set aside and DO NOT handle or move it for at least an hour. Give it another coat and let sit for 24 hours. It should be solid by then, which case, you can lightly sand, or file any access. That should do it. I have used it on a trigger mechanism for a paint ball gun, using air brad nailer nails on the plastic and metal parts of the trigger, that were broke and the results were great. I actually think, it is stronger now, then it was before it broke. It is worth a shot. The CA has other Modeling uses also.

Good Luck!

Frank

 

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Santa Fe, NM
  • 1,169 posts
Posted by Adelie on Friday, April 18, 2014 4:56 PM

I'd second checking Aztec, who looks like they sell them for $20.  However, you will want to contact them because I think they want a frame in return.  I have no idea what they would charge without an exchange or if they will sell it that way.

Ebay is always an option, and since all you want is the frame whether the loco works or not is irrelevant as long as the frame is decent.

But personally, since buying a frame will only get you back to where you were before it went crazy, I'd contact Aztec and see if they'll sell you one with the hold for the speaker already milled out.

- Mark

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