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Proto 2000 side rod repair

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  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: Buffalo Grove, IL
  • 64 posts
Proto 2000 side rod repair
Posted by JimStrez on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 11:57 AM

Does anyone know hoe to remove the bolt that holds the side rods in place on the third driver of a Proto 2000 0-8-0 switcher? I have the part to replace, but I cannot figure out how to remove the one bolt.

Strezzy

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,321 posts
Posted by selector on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 1:27 PM

I don't know that loco, although I have its smaller brother, the 0-6-0.  I suspect you'll need a driver set of the kind that Micro Mark sells.  I can't help with imperial vs. metric....sorry, I have no idea.  But Micro Mark, google that name, sells both kinds of miniature drivers.

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: Buffalo Grove, IL
  • 64 posts
Posted by JimStrez on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 2:03 PM

I will try to post a picture as soon as it gets approved and i probably should have mentioned this in the earlier post, but the "bolt" on that drive is actually molded into the valve gear rod. And on the inside face of the driver, there is no screw head either. I simply can't figure out how it is attached.

Strezzy

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 7:04 PM

From your description, I would guess that you should NOT try to remove that rivet unless that piece is the one that is broken.  The 'side rod' would normally be only the main rod that interconnects all 4 wheels, not the push rod connected to the 3rd wheel and the cylinder slide.

 

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Thursday, January 30, 2014 12:24 AM

If the part which you wish to remove is the drive rod (connected to all four drivers on each side of the loco), that is indeed a bolt holding the rod in place on each wheel.  (Technically, it's actually a hex-headed screw, as it's not used with a nut.) Whistling
You can make an open-end wrench from sheet brass fairly easily, and a box wrench with only a little more effort, but I used a small pair of smooth-jawed pliers - grasp the bolt head with the end of the jaws (not the side) and gently twist to loosen.  When you re-assemble the loco, don't overtighten itt, or you'll strip the threads.

While this link concerns a gear repair for the same loco, I had to check my post to make sure I was remembering correctly. Smile, Wink & Grin

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/226404.aspx

 

Wayne

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,706 posts
Posted by zstripe on Thursday, January 30, 2014 3:19 AM

Strezzy,

If you would like a free Micro-Mark catalog and E-mail, you could always use it as a reference, even if you never buy from them:

https://www.micromark.com/ssl/catalogrequest.aspx

Frank

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: Buffalo Grove, IL
  • 64 posts
Posted by JimStrez on Thursday, January 30, 2014 1:41 PM

OK - I finally have the picture from the gallery. There is no bolt per se' and the exploded diagram in the box shows the part connected to the value gear is the same as the pin that hold all the rods in place. So what you are saying is the I would need to unscrew that entire part (which I tried to loosen, but it is set pretty firmly) by unscrewing from it the driver?

I frequent the MicroMark site so I am good what navigating there. Thank you!

As you can see below, the "bolt" is molded into the part and there is not much of an edge to grip with a wrench of any kind.

Proto 2000 Side Rod

Strezzy

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: Buffalo Grove, IL
  • 64 posts
Posted by JimStrez on Thursday, January 30, 2014 1:43 PM

Picture is the gallery for now.

 

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/m/mrr-layouts/2289392.aspx

Strezzy

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Thursday, January 30, 2014 3:47 PM

I'd guess that the fastening is still a hex-headed screw.  To turn it, use the eccentric as a wrench.  Once the threads are free of the thread in the driver, you should be able to press the eccentric towards the driver, freeing the screw head.

After you've made the necessary repair, re-assemble things in reverse order, threading the screw into place until you can no longer grip it.  Lift the eccentric and eccentric rod and align the hex-opening with the head of the screw, then use that to re-tighten the screw.


Wayne

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 3,312 posts
Posted by locoi1sa on Thursday, January 30, 2014 7:05 PM

The exccentric is the screw. Grab it gently with a pair of needle nose and turn left. Lefty loosy righty tighty. There may be shims under the shoulder of the threaded screw part that sets the exccentrics angle.

       Pete

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: Buffalo Grove, IL
  • 64 posts
Posted by JimStrez on Friday, January 31, 2014 8:53 AM

OK - tried last night and that thing is ROCK SOLID! not moving in the slightest. I'm afraid it will bend or break and that would be bad.

I think I should just send it back to Walthers and have them take care of it.

Strezzy

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: Buffalo Grove, IL
  • 64 posts
Posted by JimStrez on Thursday, April 24, 2014 9:20 AM

IndifferentSolution...

New loco. They sent me a new one. Probably using the other as a parts source.

Or they couldn't loosen the bolt either!

Strezzy

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Thursday, April 24, 2014 10:35 AM

Glad to hear that you got the problem resolved. Thumbs Up


Wayne

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