Good Morning All: I just purchased on Ebay a Life-Like Proto 2000 BL-2 Loco in Bangor & Aroostook as delivered colors (circa 1950 era). First one of the Proto 2000 ones I've happened across in this paint scheme. Most that you see offered are in the later solid blue & yellow scheme and that's too late for my layout era. Looks to be in pristene condition & seller assures me that it is & is problem free. (see photos) The only issue is that it has no couplers. Seller states that "knuckle couplers will mount easily in standard pockets". My question is, which couplers are best for this? Looking for an easy install, as my eye sight is not what it once was. Are any of the pre-assembled coupler units appropriate for this? The reason I ask here is that we have no LHS around here, so I'm likely going to have to order a set online & want to be sure I get the right ones. Recommendations? Thanks in advance.
Good Morning All: I just purchased on Ebay a Life-Like Proto 2000 BL-2 Loco in Bangor & Aroostook as delivered colors (circa 1950 era). First one of the Proto 2000 ones I've happened across in this paint scheme. Most that you see offered are in the later solid blue & yellow scheme and that's too late for my layout era. Looks to be in pristene condition & seller assures me that it is & is problem free. (see photos)
The only issue is that it has no couplers. Seller states that "knuckle couplers will mount easily in standard pockets". My question is, which couplers are best for this? Looking for an easy install, as my eye sight is not what it once was. Are any of the pre-assembled coupler units appropriate for this? The reason I ask here is that we have no LHS around here, so I'm likely going to have to order a set online & want to be sure I get the right ones. Recommendations? Thanks in advance.
"I could never belong to any club that would have me as a member."
Gidday, good to see you've managed to get what you wanted.
The Kadee conversion site refers to No: 32 or 22 couplers.
http://www.kadee.com/conv/holist.pdf
Here's a comparison chart..
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/chart.htm
and a "how to"....
http://www.kadee.com/conv/pdf/l171.pdf
Enjoy,
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Thanks for the info & charts. That looks pretty involved. Surely there must be another solution that does not require all the drilling, tapping, cutting etc. This loco must have originally come with some type of coupler installed. All I'm wondering is if this same type of original coupler can be simply re-installed. I'm wondering if they were the Proto Max Magnetic Couplers Type 4, which are pre-assembled & a much easier mount.
It came with a very cheap type of coupler that most modelers wouldn't give the time of day to. The Kadee coupler indicated is the best replacement you can get. Drilling a couple of holes and cutting some pieces off a couple of pieces of plastic isn't hard at all. I've done much more complicated installations that actually required removing part of the loco frame. This installation is almost as easy as falling off a log.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Gidday, Jeffery is dead to rights regarding the original couplers. Yes it may be a little involved doing the Kadee conversion but I would suggest, invoking the "Do It Once, Do It Right" Principle that it would be well worth it in the long run.
Alternatively, now that Walthers own "Life Like" perhaps by contacting them direct, they may be able to offer an easier solution.
Best of luck,
Cheers,the Bear.
Many Thanks to both of you for the info. The problem I have right now is that my eyesight is not what it once was. I have found in the past couple years that assembling the extremely tiny parts in most couplers is becoming challenging. That is why I was hoping that there might be a pre-assembled coupler solution, like the Proto-Max, that would be an easier install for me. Perhaps my best bet would be as you suggested: Contact Walthers & ask if these Proto-Max can be easily installed on this loco, or if they have an alternative suggestion.
Gidday again, Yes, "the Joys of Getting Older", I find that I am using my cheap 3x specs for the fine details more and more.
Yep, I'm in the same place, using cheap 3x specs for detail work. Put something 3 feet away from me, or further, & I can still see it sharp as a tack. But, up close is another story now. I've been considering one of those lighted 10x magnifier headsets/goggles for doing detail work.
I've found with the BL2 there are at least two frame/coupler attach variations. I was working on one last night and ended up using Kadee 33's (no coupler head offset) instead of 32's to get the coupler heighth correct.
Dick Haave
I've never installed couplers into this particular locomotive, but I've just swapped out the factory P2K couplers with Kadee whisker couplers (#148s) without ANY modifications. On locomotives with plows, I've gone to longer shank Kadees.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Medina1128 I've never installed couplers into this particular locomotive, but I've just swapped out the factory P2K couplers with Kadee whisker couplers (#148s) without ANY modifications. On locomotives with plows, I've gone to longer shank Kadees.
One has to determine whether one has the original issue or the updated version (Which you obviously have Medina1128!)
Upon checking mine out (which hasn't been openup in 20 years), it seems I cut off the metal coupler pad althogether and added some styrene to the body to build a pad behind the pilot to mount a KD number 5 to.(in it's draft gear box.
The oiginal run came with X2F couplers, better known as "horn-hooks"., which is why we have to bend over backwards to get KDs or any knuckle type coupler on these. If you're that troubled about doing the installation yourself, isn't there anyone who could do it for you? A fellow modeler in the area or a hobby shop? I'd be happy to do it for you at no charge, except for actual shipping costs. If interested contact me via PM (Start Conversation).
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
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" The problem I have right now is that my eyesight is not what it once was."
You will find that an Optivisor can be your best friend. I'm nearsighted with bi-focals. I've used an Optivisor for at least 25 years, both when modeling and when I'm doing close work as a toolmaker. A good high intensity light should help as well.
I find that the Bachmann #78125 medium center shank is an easy replacement. No modifications are necessary. These are plastic with dual plastic springs for centering. The coupler head is sprung. The Bachmann couplers also come in under shank and over shank, but I find that the 78125 center shank provides the right coupler height. Hope this helps.