I have a nice old Sunset D&RGW K-28 brass loco that I just purchased. It was apparently painted back in the 70's, maybe with a brush! The decaling is terrible and I need to strip it down to the brass.
Any of you guys have a preferred method for doing this?
Richard
If I can't fix it, I can fix it so it can't be fixed
I would take the motor, wires--all electrical and plastic out and disassemble then soak in some MEK. That stuff is volatile, but effective. Wear gloves and have lots of ventilation and NO source of ignition. It will melt plastic. If you're not wanting a "flame thrower and quick", then paint thinner can work with effort and time. If you use MEK, I wouldn't let it sit for a lengthy period. After MEK, go to paint thinner or mineral spirits then wash.
don't overlook the insulation used on the wheels. some solvents will attack it too.
charlie
Brake fluid is a bit safer and will do the job. Do note that all details may not be soldered and could loosen. Just carefully scrub w/ a small brush.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Brass is easier to strip than plastic, 'cause brass won't dissolve in whatever you use against the paint. Beware of getting your paint remover on any wires or the motor, 'cause it will eat the insulation leading to dire short circuits. Other plastic parts might be gears, draw bars, and insulation in the wheels.
If the paint is lacquer (Floquil) then lacquer thinner will get it off. If the paint is water based then commercial paint remover will surely get it, and milder solvents like Pinesol or alcohol or Tri Sodium Phosphate (TSP) in water may work.
Was it me, I would take the locomotive apart enough to separate the non brass parts from the brass parts and soak the brass parts in paint remover until the paint crinkles up. Then scrub with a toothbrush. You may need to make two passes to get it all.
All the paint removers are very active and can eat the floor, the finish off the kitchen table, anything plastic or painted. Beware of spills 'cause they can make a horrible mess. Dirty rags left over from paint removing can eat the finish off anything they are placed upon.
MEK is considerably more active than lacquer thinner. After some really PITA accidents involving MEK spills I try not to use MEK unless I really need to. Lacquer thinner is active enough to deal with lacquer.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Thanks for the tips. I'll try the laquer thinner as I have some on hand.
I have already stripped the model down and removed the motor and its single wire (old pitman). Plastic parts on an older brass model!? You gotta be kidding me. Pure brass thru and thru.
I will not be soaking the wheels, frame and valve gear as it is good to go, as is. It is mainly the boiler/cab and tender that are getting th' treatment.
I'l keep everyone updated on how this came out.
I have a modern can motor with 6.3:1 reduction on order. The pitman can't hack the crawl speeds that I demand.
Air blastic with baking soda is the only method I use for stripping brass. I've found chemical removers of any kind just won't get it 100% clean. Air blasting gets EVERYthing off, won't hurt the solder joints and provides a nice satin finish that really helps the paint to adhere.
Mark.
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Lacquer thinner worked great to strip this old Akane:
,,,and even removed the cab (which I was going to replace anyway):
Wayne
I am trying to get some very old Floquil off Walthers car sides and ends to ressurect an old car. I have started out with denatured alcohol, will try laquer thinner next.
Ed
Another good paint stripper is Super Clean, and it works on plastics, too. Available at Walmart.