Help needed with decals (application)

[Anonymous]

Today I tried to apply numbered decals to some Walthers' Amtrak cars and darn it, I can't seem to get them applied to the body with accuracy. Cutting them from the sheet is a hassle, too. Is there a sure fire method of applying decals? I'm tried using tweezers because the decals are so small, but obviously my hand isn't steady enough--and the results look terrible. HELP!

[Big_Boy_4005]

Are you trying to do each digit seperately, or you doing blocks of numbers? Trim them as closely as possible

Cutting is best done with a sharp Xacto knife. Soak the pieces face down until the paper backing turns dark from being waterlogged. At this point the decal should be ready to release from the paper. The decal has a slimey glue, and should slide off the paper and onto the model. Tweezers really aren't the tool of chioce.

If you need to reposition the decal, place a drop of water on the model and float it into position. Then use the corner of a tissue to draw the water out. This will get it close, then using the tip of a sharp Xacto knife position it exactly where you want it.

Patience, and be thankful that you aren't in N scale. [:)]

[Anonymous]

[quoteCutting is best done with a sharp Xacto knife. Soak the pieces face down until the paper backing turns dark from being waterlogged. At this point the decal should be ready to release from the paper. The decal has a slimey glue, and should slide off the paper and onto the model. Tweezers really aren't the tool of chioce.

[randybc2003]

I use a pair of sissors I bought from a sewing shop especially for the purpose. Sharp & snug, but not tight.

I use a paint bru***o apply (over the area of location) a drop or two of "MICROSCALE" softening solution. A "tensioned" drop is OK, but I like to spread & smear a little. I use a #2 brush.

I put warm water in a flat dish, and place the decal (paper side down) in the water, and force it under with X-acto, or hard end of my paintbrush. I note how long the decal takes to soften. When I am ready to place the decal, I check to see the site is still damp w/ solution, and then I use a large SEWING NEEDLE to "spearfish" the decal & the paper backing together. I have probably nudged the decal w/ the needle, to see if it has separated from the backing. Then, with the decal and backing on (the tip of) the needle, I spot the decal, usually on the pool of solvent. I frequently use a SECOND NEEDLE to remove the backing from under the decal.

One of the needles can be used to position the decal. The paintbrush can be used to pu***he decal or "draw" the decal into final position.

[randybc2003]

Sorry about the interupt.
I usually let the solution evaporate, but one can use a tissue to draw the fluid out from under the decal. This often creates a current which moves the decal. Use the needle or bru***o return decal to original position.

Then use needle or E-xacto to open bubbles under the decal, and apply Softening/setting solution to "snug" the decal down. Allow to dry. Repeat as necessary.

Finish with a shot of "Dullcoat", etc. This helps to hide the decal edge.

Check other sites of this website: I think they have a special section on decaling.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

Patience, and be thankful that you aren't in N scale. [:)]

Well, I *am* in N-scale, and yes, some of those decals are really difficult. What I use to maneuver decals into position is a soft, thin paintbrush, along with a basic shirt pin (any fine point will do). I don't like to use a knife blade because it is usually sharper (I do save my used-up blades for service such as scenery carving or scraping chalk for weathering). A shirt pin is just sharp enough to catch the film and tug it without tearing.

I use the bru***o first apply the decal; by dipping in water, then touching the bru***ip to the cut-out decal, I pick it up by surface tension; touch the bru***o the back side of the decal. The paper will soak up just enough water, and then you lay the decal down onto the model with the brush beneath. Use the pin to pull the decal off of the brush and onto the model; this way, you maintain a laminar layer of water between model body and decal, prohibiting the formation of bubbles.

The decal will still need some time to soak before it comes loose from the paper, so be patient. When it starts to slide, tug it off with the pin or push it off with the brush (use the brush for larger decals, as it will move a larger area at once); you can add a half-drop of water as needed to give you time to position things, and as others mentioned you can soak up the excess once it is in position. Get about 50 percent of the decal off the paper, and stuck to the model, then pull the rest of the paper out from under it; again, this maintains a layer of water between decal and model to prevent bubbles.

As for alignment, I don't yet have any real tricks to help out here. If you tilt the model to an extreme angle and sight down it, you can visually check that lines are straight and level. I am wondering if using masking tape might be an option, but I would be fearful of placing such over any already-placed decals before they had been fully set; usually when I do decaling, I do it all at the same time, just waiting for one to air dry before going on to the next. Utlimately, the decals should be set with Solva-Set, and probably covered with a clear coat, though I just apply weathering after the Solva-Set.