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Covered hopper kits

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Covered hopper kits
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 13, 2003 5:21 PM
Is a Proto 2000 Covered hopper kit really hard to assmble?[?][?]
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  • From: San Jose, California
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Posted by nfmisso on Saturday, December 13, 2003 6:20 PM
No, it much easier to put together than many other things. Just read and understand the instructions before you start, and have the correct tools - no compromises.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 13, 2003 7:49 PM
Nope.

I'm building a pair now

It is complicated, and you need to pay attention, but it's not hard.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 13, 2003 8:37 PM
What are the correct tools?

Chris. Spratt
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 13, 2003 8:43 PM
X-Acto, #11 blade, tweezers. That's all I've found the need for on these kits (unlike Branchline, the predrilled holes don't need redrilling)

Sprue nipper is helpful too.
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  • From: Southern Minnesota now
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Posted by Hawks05 on Saturday, December 13, 2003 10:12 PM
i need to get some of these tools. i have an x-acto knife set that my dad gave me from when he did models back in the 50s, a little set of screw drivers, and a tweezer. i want to get one of those little drills to. have to ask for christmas.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 13, 2003 10:21 PM
Hawks: A pin vise and a set of #60-#80 bits are endlessly useful, and not too expensive, so ask for them for christmas. Other than that, an X-Acto (And a ready supply of blades, I get mine at Staples), tweezers and a set of jewellers scredrivers (or equivalent) are the basics.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, December 15, 2003 7:33 PM
thanks for the info guys. i read somewhere that they were hard. I will get the tools and cars after X-mas
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  • From: CA
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Posted by electromotive on Monday, December 15, 2003 9:29 PM
To make cutting easier get a Precision Sprue Cutter, there around 12.00 dollars
Mine is made by B&B Hobby Supplies
701 Mill St. Bridgeville PA. 412-257 0301..
or ask your local hobby shop...
And those kits I've built 14 of them, one of the best out there, I'd wish P2K had other units..
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Posted by wp8thsub on Monday, December 15, 2003 11:35 PM
In addition to having decent tools to get the little parts off the sprues, it's helpful to have good cement. Typical model cements like Testors set slowly. Fast evaporating kinds like Tenax 7-R or Ambroid ProWeld are invaluable for holding parts like the ladders at the corners that will show ugly gaps if not assembled properly. Using these cements makes assembly much faster and neater because you don't have to hold the parts in alignment for more than a few seconds, and you don't have the risk of too much plastic dissolving and oozing from the joints.

Rob Spangler

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Posted by ndbprr on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 10:04 AM
I've always found it easier to fill the hole with a solvent glue and then insert the part into the hole. By the time I wet the pin, set down the brush, grab the car and then try to locate it it seems like the glue evaporates. Putting it in the hole solved that problem for me.

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