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I vary my techniques somewhat, depending on whether I'm working with plastic, plaster, or resin castings, but here's the basics of what I do for brickwork: 1. Using Floquil or Polly S Earth and/or Aged Concrete and a 3/0 sable brush, flow paint into the mortar joints. Your brush doesn't have to be fully loaded, and in fact you don't want to "flood" the mortar lines anyway. Use thin paint and let capillary action do the rest. 2. After everything has dried, I use Plaid or Apple Barrel acrylic "Indian Red" (available at WalMart for about 78 cents) and a No. 4 flat sable bru***o paint the surface of the bricks. I let the brush just skim along the surface, almost like dry brushing, except the brush really isn't dry. A steady hand and very little pressure on the brush will keep the brick color on the brick and out of the mortar lines. After the bricks have dried, I sometimes go over individual bricks with a dark orange or black or raw sienna. I don't paint a lot of bricks like this because on a model it's easy to overdo. And I always use an illuminated magnifier to help make sure the paint doesn't run into the mortar. I've used my method for many years with great results! It works well enough to withstand scrutiny in closeup photos. And here's another tip: if you ever need to color stone walls that have been modeled in plaster, try Woodland Scenics scenery pigments. They work great on plaster walls (of course they were designed to be used on plaster castings, so it's no surprise). I used them on a Southriver Modelworks kit where 2/3's of the structure was stone; the results were the most realistic I've ever achieved! Hope this helps.
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