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Ok i got this out of Railroad Model Craftsman July 2000, so please bear with me. I'll try to condense if i can. Wa***he walls in water with a little liquid detergent, let them air dry, and then paint them your choice for the base brick color (article suggests Pactra Terra Cotta or a 70:30 mix of Floquil Zinc chromate and reefer white). Second step is tedious but gives the brick walls character. Mix your base color with a lighter color, beige, light gray, or white, approximately 50:50 original color to tinting color, and randomly paint about 20% of the bricks. You can create "clinkers" or bricks that have been scorched in the firing process by repeating the second step but substitute black with your base color. Again be random and the exact ratio of paint mixture isn't critical. The article states the third step is to paint the grout and weathering in one step. You already have but if you repainted your brick wall you should be good to go. Purchase the least expensive brand possible of artist water colors at any art supply store. He recommends lamp black, chinese white, and Van *** brown. You'll also need a soft number 3 paint brush. Work water into the crevices by continuing to move your brush over the wall. This breaks down the surface tension and allows the wall to be uniformly wet. Do not use "wet water", water with detergent added. Use a plastic coffee can lid for a palette (or whatever you have that's suitable) and place a small dab of each of the colors on it for mixing. Start with a little white and brown and apply this to the wall. Then introduce a little black. To keep the colors fresh, stop occasionally and clean the brush. You don't want to be too uniform. After I have laid down somewhat of a base coat, I'll go in at a spot and put on a "direct hit" of white to represent efflorescence, the chemical reaction to the salts in the brick or grout. I also use this same technique with black or brown under eaves, sills, or occasionally on the wall to represent soot or grime. The author states when the watercolor dries you may need to redo it due to the colors slightly changing during the drying process. He suggests heavy grime for machine shops and Row houses in the working class district. Upper class housing should be cleaner overall. To lighten the weathering, wipe a paper towel over the top of the bricks to remove some of the water color, leaving paint just in the joints and crevices to yield newer looking walls. He later suggests if you want to further weather you can do so using pastels to represent soot or rust. He also added some vines by drawing the vines on the wall with white glue and then sprinkling ground foam on the wet glue tracery. If you have a chance to pick up the back issue the pictures of his very simple work are very realistic looking. All credit here is due to Bob Brendle. He's the one who wrote the article.
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