Mounting buildings on a layout - how?

[jhugart]

A couple of friends and I are working on a small layout so we can go through all the layout building steps and actually complete something. Along the way, we find the occasional hole in some of the books and articles. One such was the not-too-clear practice that after the plaster-soaked paper towels, you will actually brush on a coat of plain plaster, in order to create the smooth look for the terrain. For whatever reason, none of us had encountered this in reading through our collections of how-to books. It was there, but more in terms of using an extra coat for modelling rocks, or adding Sculptamold for roads.

Another gap we encountered is how to mount a building on a layout. The clue for this was in a photo in one book, showing a series of houses under construction. The bases for the houses were set against the rough scenery base, and the final coat of plaster was put around them and on them, so they were anchored.

Is this the best method? Are there other ways to effect the placement of buildings so they don't move about (perhaps unless you want them to)?

Jacob

[Anonymous]

That way works fine if you are using a kit structure that has a base on it but many of them don't.

If they don't then you can glue the completed structure onto a sheet of thick styrene and run the scenery over it. The only problem is this doesn't work very well at the front of buildings on paved streets where there is a sidewalk.

What you can also do is build a styrene foundation that you mount in the scenery with vertical wires poking out of it that fit into tight holes in the bottom of the buildings. This has the advantage that you can take the building off the layout without breaking the scenery so it is easier to put in interiors, lights, extrat detail, etc. This is the metod that I favour with my scratchbuild buildings.

neil

[Anonymous]

I build the foundations from styrene square stock with posts in the corners that fit inside the building. The foundation is then attached to the rough base. Then I fini***he scenery around the foundation. The building can then be placed on the foundation. I do not mount it permanently.

Actually, its also a good idea to be able to get the building off so that you can clean the inside.[:)]

[CBQ_Guy]

One suggestion I read a few years ago was to set a couple pieces of brass tubing sticking up out of the ground where the building will sit. Then mount a couple more pieces at the same location sticking out the bottom of the structure. These complimentary pieces of tubing just slide together like a telescoping portable radio antenna - a fairly snug but moveable fit. The reason to do it this way is if you want to put lighting in the building. You solder your wires to the bulb(s) to the tubing in the structure itself. The pieces of tubing sticking up from the "ground" are soldered to power feeder wires under the layout. The tubing accomplishes two functions then - it holds the building in place on the layout, and it also acts like an electric plug. If you need to remove the building for cleaning or to replace bulbs, just "unplug" it.

Hope this inspires someone but to be honest, I never actually tried this myself yet.

Happy Holidays!

[michaelstevens]

My approach is (once the track beds are in place) to construct roadways, parking lots, house lots etc. using 1/8" hardboard on 1/4" bridges between track bed risers or dedicated new 1 x 2 risers.
Buildings can then populate these level areas (lots).
The hard shell scenery (usually removable for access to hidden track) then occupies the intervening undeveloped spaces.

[n2mopac]

QUOTE: Originally posted by brunob1

I build the foundations from styrene square stock with posts in the corners that fit inside the building. The foundation is then attached to the rough base. Then I fini***he scenery around the foundation. The building can then be placed on the foundation. I do not mount it permanently.

Actually, its also a good idea to be able to get the building off so that you can clean the inside.[:)]

I follow this same method. This allows me to detail the visible interriors of the buildings easily and to be able to light the buildings and get easy access to change lights/wiring when necessary. Then there is always that consideration of when you build that "new" layout, and you will, of being able to use some of your best buildings on that layout without damaging them in the extraction process. I think you will be happiest with this method. I know I am.
Ron

[Anonymous]

None of my structures are anchored in any way to the layout. I want to be able to change out the industrial buildings the same way that I change rolling stock because I think it adds variety and interest to operations.

I build a flat area out of plywood and most of the time cover it with a thin layer of wallboard compound and then paint it grey to simulate asphalt. In some cases, I have laid track in the pavement. I can set it up so that for one building, the track enters it through a door at one end. If I substitute another building, the track becomes a siding that runs alongside it. I've done variations of this in four locations.

John

[Anonymous]

I have seen buildings mounted on a thick plastic base and then placed into a loose pile of material... such as cinders for a depot or woodland sencics for a town building.

Everything is glued first by wetting it down to prevent huge drops and the underside of the building recieves a coat of white glue. (Same as that used in kindergarden) I prefer that they are not pernamently placed on layout expecially due to the expense and the possibility of moving in future.

Good Luck! Lee

[Anonymous]

Not sure if I haven't been doing it all wrong all along, but what I've been doing is
using bulletin-board cork to mount structures on that are to be trackside. I cut a
piece of cork sheet into a shape will but-up against the roadbed and has plenty of
room for the parking lot, loading area, landscaping around the building, etc., glue it
down with Elmer's, then paint it brown with at least three coats of latex paint. I also
tack it down where necessary because it will bubble-up here and there but usually
not too bad if you put a book down on it. I then just glue the structure to the cork and,
at least in N-scale, the cork brings the buildings up to approx. the right height for the
box car doors. I then use scenery material, plaster, ballast rock for gravel, or
whatever to blend the cork surface into the landscaping with diluted white glue and
some dish detergent to eliminate the surface tension of the water and prevent
beading.

[Anonymous]

Hello CBQ guy,

QUOTE: if you want to put lighting in the building. You solder your wires to the bulb(s) to the tubing in the structure itself. The pieces of tubing sticking up from the "ground" are soldered to power feeder wires under the layout. The tubing accomplishes two functions then - it holds the building in place on the layout, and it also acts like an electric plug. If you need to remove the building for cleaning or to replace bulbs, just "unplug" it.

That is so simple and so clever I now have the answer I needed to my similar structure problems. Thanks guy.

[Anonymous]

Hey CBQ_Guy,

I agree with LightBender, this is a great idea. I use the same trick of one telescoping into another but have been using styrene rather than metal. I have some brass welding rod now all I need is to get the tubing. Thanks!!

[Seamonster]

I mount my buildings by putting short beads of silicone caulking along the bottom edge of the structure walls (I normally don't use the bases) and setting them in place. The silicone isn't continuous all the way around. I build the scenery material (dirt, grass, gravel, whatever) up to the structure to make sure there is no gap showing. The structures are easily removed by inserting a flexible putty knife under the edges to cut the silicone.
...Bob

[Anonymous]

Rather than using brass tubing which oxidizes and results in poor conduction I suggest using quick disconnect clips....The sort which connect the rechargable battery in older cordless phones ....They are available at electrical supply houses in bulk.

Randy