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ballasting turnouts/grade crossings
ballasting turnouts/grade crossings
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
ballasting turnouts/grade crossings
Posted by
Anonymous
on Saturday, May 26, 2001 3:38 PM
I've built a city switching layout with no roadbed beneath the rails. What's the best way to ballast my 7 turnouts without gluing them shut? Spraying a 50/50 mixture of glue and water is sort of out of the question due to space restraints.
Also, I plan to make some plaster roads over the tracks and wonder the best way to clean the plaster away from the inside of the rails for the wheel flanges to run smoothly. And the best color for the roads would be "grimy black", "weathered black"...........????
Has anyone had experience with the "rubber" grade crossing material that is sold through Walthers?
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Saturday, May 26, 2001 3:58 PM
To answer your first question: by being very careful! You can't spray it, but we use large hypodermic syringes (you can get these at pet stores) without the needle. You put your water/glue mix in a small container, and suck it up into the syringe, then you can gently dispense small amounts in exact locations. Don't even think about gluing around the points and mechanism. Before you lay the turnout, paint the area underneath the same color as your ballast so you won't notice a huge contrast For plaster roads, try using an old wheelset, just after the plaster firms-up, but before it sets. Then come back with a small knife (great use for old, dull blades) and clean-up the area. The best way to pick colors is to take your camera to an area (or similar area) you're modeling and get a roll of pictures. For scenery, I usually use cheap water based paints you can get in discount stores, or craft stores. Mix and match the colors in your photos. MOPAC 1
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Saturday, June 2, 2001 1:09 AM
I agree with what robert has said but if you do get too close in on your points with the glue you can gently work with a pick (a 90 degree works best for me)to free the points. Also watch for any pieces of ballast even the tiniest spec will give you problems if it glued atop a tie.
For the plaster streets the best way i've found to gap away from the rails is to get a package of the scale lumber made of ballsa wood. Glue it skinny side downwith some walthers goo, then once its set semi firm take an exacto knife and trim it even with the top of the rail. Lay your plaster in and use a scrap of sheet styrene with a true flat edge to level the plaster to the top of the rails. When the plaster dries sand the area just enough to knock down any spots of plaster on the rails. Then to finish use a pick or small screwdriver to peel the wood strips back out.(the Goo lets go fairly easy)
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Sunday, June 3, 2001 10:58 AM
Thanks for the responses! Great ideas there. Both your initials spell RR! Thanks again.
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