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I have seen the book but I do not own it, so I cannot help you trouble shoot the circuits, but I can tell you a little about soldering. First: CLEAN EVERYTHING! I mean, have some fine sand paper or (better) plumber's emory cloth to rub down all the metal you want to join. Second: Clean and tin your iron. In order to transfer heat effectively from the iron to the joint, the iron tip must be coated with molten solder. If the solder doesn't want to coat the tip and runs off instead, then let it cool off and lightly shine up the tip with the emory cloth. I have known people who keep a wet sponge around to keep the tip clean, although I have never tried this myself. Three: Make a secure mechanical connection in the joint--you don't wnat the wires to move while they're cooling ("cold soldered"). Hook them, twist them, whatever seems appropriate (there actually are Western Electric standards for this somewhere..). Four: Use resin flux. You can find it at electronic stores. Not (not that you would even consider it) acid! This is for plumbing. Five: Heat the joint until solder flows into it--not until solder merely blobs. Capillary action will draw it in just like a puddle into your sneakers. If you find you are melting the switches or terminals, either your iron is too hot or the metal is not clean. Usually somewhere around a seven watt iron is ok for wire work with small gauge (18 or higher). I hope that this is some help. I don't think that you would notice a difference between 18 an 22 guage wire in short runs, but maybe someone can correct me on this. Soldering is incredibly frustrating when it does not work out well, but it is not that difficult to really master (and it's a step towards welding!). My experience trying to play around on anything but a breadboard without soldering has been very disappointing, so there is a good chance your circuits are fine.
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