AHM locomotives

[Anonymous]

Good afternoon all,

I recently bought 2 mint AHM locomotives. U25c and a Alco 1000. They run great except the coupler height.

I switched out the couplers to kadde no. 5 but having trouble with height compared to all my other locomotives.

Anyone have any advice? Something easy perhaps without a major reworking.

Thanks,

Mark in Texas.

[Anonymous]

Good afternoon all,

I recently bought 2 mint AHM locomotives. U25c and a Alco 1000. They run great except the coupler height.

I switched out the couplers to kadde no. 5 but having trouble with height compared to all my other locomotives.

Anyone have any advice? Something easy perhaps without a major reworking.

Thanks,

Mark in Texas.

[Anonymous]

Hi Mark,

I use Kaydee Washers that fit between the boster and the car truck to raise a too low coupler, and I thought maybe you can fit a washer onto a kaydee coupler to raise it up inside the box.

If your couplers need lowering, I can defer that to someone else who may have more experience with lowering them.

Lee

[Anonymous]

Hi Mark,

I use Kaydee Washers that fit between the boster and the car truck to raise a too low coupler, and I thought maybe you can fit a washer onto a kaydee coupler to raise it up inside the box.

If your couplers need lowering, I can defer that to someone else who may have more experience with lowering them.

Lee

[Anonymous]

I will have to try the washer idea, that may work.

Thanks Lee.

Mark in Texas

[Anonymous]

I will have to try the washer idea, that may work.

Thanks Lee.

Mark in Texas

[Anonymous]

Did you use talgo adapters. Also, Kadee makes couplers with lower and higher offsets. www.kadee.com/htmbord/page25.htm is where trucks are and http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page33.htm is where 212 talgo adapters are. On my AHM RS2 a #5 was perfect with the use of talgo adapters. The problem was then it wouldn't self center, so I ended up using the proto 2000 and/or bachmanns with metal springs and the cat whisker centering springs and the kadee talgo adapter in all my talgo conversions. FRED

[Anonymous]

Did you use talgo adapters. Also, Kadee makes couplers with lower and higher offsets. www.kadee.com/htmbord/page25.htm is where trucks are and http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page33.htm is where 212 talgo adapters are. On my AHM RS2 a #5 was perfect with the use of talgo adapters. The problem was then it wouldn't self center, so I ended up using the proto 2000 and/or bachmanns with metal springs and the cat whisker centering springs and the kadee talgo adapter in all my talgo conversions. FRED

[Anonymous]

Greetings Fred,

I just used the no. 5 alone.

I will look into those options too, I will have to plan a trip to my hobby shop.

Thanks for all the advice.

Mark in Texas

[Anonymous]

Greetings Fred,

I just used the no. 5 alone.

I will look into those options too, I will have to plan a trip to my hobby shop.

Thanks for all the advice.

Mark in Texas

[Anonymous]

I just read your request for info on AHM locos. I have been doing Kadee change overs on quite a few older talgo type engines and have found that there are two things to remember with the older engine trucks. One, be careful when you work on them and two, the lock that holds them together may break eventually if you have to try quite a few times to get the height correct. BUT, there is a way to fix them if you do break the lock's tab, it's simple and easy. I have even had the locks break on IHC's newer trucks, which I repaired this way.

Anyway, this is one way that I have found that also works on these talgo trucks and that is to;
1) take the old coupler out
2) drill through the center of the stud the old coupler was mounted on
3) drill and tap it for 2-56
4) check the top of the assy. and file/sand flat if nessary
5) I have used both the # 5 box and also the box that has two ears and no cover (I forget the number of the package)
6) mount the coupler on TOP of the truck frame with the smallest headed machine screw you have going from the top down
7) you may or may not have to file the opening a bit, or the coupler cover, so there is no rubbing. Do enough so the coupler cover does not hit if the truck comes up when it hits a bit of a bump.

I did it this way because I could not find any coupler or shim that got it to the correct height.

I have also found on some engines and cars that each end took different coupler numbers and or shims so don't think you're seeing things. I have heard it, and read it, that you have to try until it fits. If you have a few to do, or plan to change over all your cars, I would suggest you do several things.

If you need some more ideas on coupler change-overs, I would be glad to help.

Ralph

[Anonymous]

I just read your request for info on AHM locos. I have been doing Kadee change overs on quite a few older talgo type engines and have found that there are two things to remember with the older engine trucks. One, be careful when you work on them and two, the lock that holds them together may break eventually if you have to try quite a few times to get the height correct. BUT, there is a way to fix them if you do break the lock's tab, it's simple and easy. I have even had the locks break on IHC's newer trucks, which I repaired this way.

Anyway, this is one way that I have found that also works on these talgo trucks and that is to;
1) take the old coupler out
2) drill through the center of the stud the old coupler was mounted on
3) drill and tap it for 2-56
4) check the top of the assy. and file/sand flat if nessary
5) I have used both the # 5 box and also the box that has two ears and no cover (I forget the number of the package)
6) mount the coupler on TOP of the truck frame with the smallest headed machine screw you have going from the top down
7) you may or may not have to file the opening a bit, or the coupler cover, so there is no rubbing. Do enough so the coupler cover does not hit if the truck comes up when it hits a bit of a bump.

I did it this way because I could not find any coupler or shim that got it to the correct height.

I have also found on some engines and cars that each end took different coupler numbers and or shims so don't think you're seeing things. I have heard it, and read it, that you have to try until it fits. If you have a few to do, or plan to change over all your cars, I would suggest you do several things.

If you need some more ideas on coupler change-overs, I would be glad to help.

Ralph

[Anonymous]

1. I have an older AHM Plymouth MDT Switcher, not sure how old, prob from '75 timeframe (based on my childhood memory) with Pennsylvania roadname. The rear drive axle has the plastic gearing stripped. The worm gear will no longer engage the drive axle. Anybody know who to contact for this part--name, address, phone, internet, etc.?

2. The locomotive is fairly worn (used heavily), but mechanically sound other than gear. The package says it was bought for $9.98. Was wondering if anyone might know how much it would be worth? Price based on average or below average condition.

[e-mail]

[Anonymous]

1. I have an older AHM Plymouth MDT Switcher, not sure how old, prob from '75 timeframe (based on my childhood memory) with Pennsylvania roadname. The rear drive axle has the plastic gearing stripped. The worm gear will no longer engage the drive axle. Anybody know who to contact for this part--name, address, phone, internet, etc.?

2. The locomotive is fairly worn (used heavily), but mechanically sound other than gear. The package says it was bought for $9.98. Was wondering if anyone might know how much it would be worth? Price based on average or below average condition.

[e-mail]