Need help Weathering Rails

[Anonymous]

I hope someone can help me with this. I am building a n scale layout. I already have the roadbed, track and the wiring in place. I would like to weather the rails. I have read on this forum about airbrushing them, but how hard is it? My hobby shop owner told me that in order for me to paint such a small area I would need a very expensive airbrush, At least $200, Is this true? If not what is a good one for a reasonable price. Also do you paint the inside of the rails too? Also what happens at the turnouts and points? I was told by another person to paint the track with a brush, seem like an awful lot of work... Maybe some can offer some advice about this, Thanks..Mike

[Anonymous]

I hope someone can help me with this. I am building a n scale layout. I already have the roadbed, track and the wiring in place. I would like to weather the rails. I have read on this forum about airbrushing them, but how hard is it? My hobby shop owner told me that in order for me to paint such a small area I would need a very expensive airbrush, At least $200, Is this true? If not what is a good one for a reasonable price. Also do you paint the inside of the rails too? Also what happens at the turnouts and points? I was told by another person to paint the track with a brush, seem like an awful lot of work... Maybe some can offer some advice about this, Thanks..Mike

[wp8thsub]

Tell your hobbyshop owner that (like most hobbyshop owners who think they know everything) he's full of it. I have one of those $200.00 airbrushes and it works great for weathering track, but not much better than a spray can.

Use newspapers and such to mask off everything but the track and use an appropriate color of flat spray paint (a dark blackish brown works well). Craft shops often carry a nice selection of earth tone spray paints.

On my current layout, I didn't use the airbrush at all, opting for acrylic craft paint applied with a 1/2" bristle brush. It's slower than airbrushing but more controllable in tight areas. I like the look just as much, and no masking is required. If you use a spray can for basic coloring, you can go back over the track with a small brush and acrylic or enamel (or just about any) paints and touch up sides of rails or tops of individual ties with additional color. Use almost black to represent new ties, lighter brown for old ties, etc.

I don't paint the insides of switch points (and the corresponding contact areas on the stock rails) but do paint everything else. Use a track cleaning block like a Walthers Brite Boy to clean the rail heads when you're done. If you don't paint the insides of the rails, they'll be shiny while everything else is the right color. Don't paint the track at all and your entire layout loses realism big time. Weathering track is worth the effort.

[wp8thsub]

Tell your hobbyshop owner that (like most hobbyshop owners who think they know everything) he's full of it. I have one of those $200.00 airbrushes and it works great for weathering track, but not much better than a spray can.

Use newspapers and such to mask off everything but the track and use an appropriate color of flat spray paint (a dark blackish brown works well). Craft shops often carry a nice selection of earth tone spray paints.

On my current layout, I didn't use the airbrush at all, opting for acrylic craft paint applied with a 1/2" bristle brush. It's slower than airbrushing but more controllable in tight areas. I like the look just as much, and no masking is required. If you use a spray can for basic coloring, you can go back over the track with a small brush and acrylic or enamel (or just about any) paints and touch up sides of rails or tops of individual ties with additional color. Use almost black to represent new ties, lighter brown for old ties, etc.

I don't paint the insides of switch points (and the corresponding contact areas on the stock rails) but do paint everything else. Use a track cleaning block like a Walthers Brite Boy to clean the rail heads when you're done. If you don't paint the insides of the rails, they'll be shiny while everything else is the right color. Don't paint the track at all and your entire layout loses realism big time. Weathering track is worth the effort.

[der5997]

I've used a brush. If you do, choose one that you don't ned to use for anything else again. It isn't as time consuming as it sounds, and the control is great. I've got an airbrush, and shall probably try it for the present layout. With the turnouts, I think I shall use the brush anyway, for the sake of not getting paint where it can gum up the works. Note that real turnouts are greasy and black, as is the track downstream from a track greaser machine on curves, a nice touch to add , but easy to over do. Another point about weathered track is that rust is different colours on rail, it may have something to do with the frequency of use. Any thoughts on this people?

[der5997]

I've used a brush. If you do, choose one that you don't ned to use for anything else again. It isn't as time consuming as it sounds, and the control is great. I've got an airbrush, and shall probably try it for the present layout. With the turnouts, I think I shall use the brush anyway, for the sake of not getting paint where it can gum up the works. Note that real turnouts are greasy and black, as is the track downstream from a track greaser machine on curves, a nice touch to add , but easy to over do. Another point about weathered track is that rust is different colours on rail, it may have something to do with the frequency of use. Any thoughts on this people?

[tomwatkins]

I generally use an airbrush because it's faster than using a brush. I mask off the switch points with a piece of 2" masking tape laid from one side of the switch to the other to make sure I don't get even overspray on the points or stock rails. I fini***hem up with a small brush. As far as a "$200.00 airbrush" is concerned, I'm sure it would do a fine job. I use a single action Binks Wren that I've had for about a zillion years. It will pull down to a much finer line than the height of code 83 rail so it works great.

Rail color and tie color vary depending on both use and age. I use 3 or 4 different shades varying from a dark grey for new rail all the way to rust for old poorly maintained and little used sidings. New ties are a very dark brownish black or blackish brown. Ancient ties are a much lighter brownish gray. Three or four shades varying from one to the other add a lot of realism as far as I'm concerned. I brush paint the ties because I do the rails first.
Hope this helps.

[tomwatkins]

I generally use an airbrush because it's faster than using a brush. I mask off the switch points with a piece of 2" masking tape laid from one side of the switch to the other to make sure I don't get even overspray on the points or stock rails. I fini***hem up with a small brush. As far as a "$200.00 airbrush" is concerned, I'm sure it would do a fine job. I use a single action Binks Wren that I've had for about a zillion years. It will pull down to a much finer line than the height of code 83 rail so it works great.

Rail color and tie color vary depending on both use and age. I use 3 or 4 different shades varying from a dark grey for new rail all the way to rust for old poorly maintained and little used sidings. New ties are a very dark brownish black or blackish brown. Ancient ties are a much lighter brownish gray. Three or four shades varying from one to the other add a lot of realism as far as I'm concerned. I brush paint the ties because I do the rails first.
Hope this helps.

[Anonymous]

All of this helps a great deal, One other thing what do you do about the terminal joiners and any other electrical contacts? Can they be painted?, As for the switches, I guess I should just hand paint them all so I dont' get any in the switch mechanism itself. Any tips to help get the paint off the top of the rails? Oh one other thing just came to mind, If I paint the sides of the rails won't the ties turn the same color?

[Anonymous]

All of this helps a great deal, One other thing what do you do about the terminal joiners and any other electrical contacts? Can they be painted?, As for the switches, I guess I should just hand paint them all so I dont' get any in the switch mechanism itself. Any tips to help get the paint off the top of the rails? Oh one other thing just came to mind, If I paint the sides of the rails won't the ties turn the same color?

[Anonymous]

For $200.00 it should be gold plated!! At this price it must be a double action i.e. push down for the amount of air flow you want and pull back for the amount of paint to mix with that air flow. If you are an experienced air brusher a double action brush may be the right ticket. However, if you have never used an air brush before I would recommend you start with a single action and get used to adjusting the amount of air flow via finger tip and set the paint flow via an adjustable knob on the end of the air brush. A good single action should cost about $40-$50. Even if you buy one of the "sets" which includes extra jars, lids, etc. it should be less than $100.

Here's a few sources that may be of help: http://www.airbrush.com/ : http://www.badger-airbrush.com/ : http://www.paascheairbrush.com/

Also, Airbrush 101 at http://www.arttalk.com/iwata/air-tip.htm - then scroll down the page to find the article.

[Anonymous]

For $200.00 it should be gold plated!! At this price it must be a double action i.e. push down for the amount of air flow you want and pull back for the amount of paint to mix with that air flow. If you are an experienced air brusher a double action brush may be the right ticket. However, if you have never used an air brush before I would recommend you start with a single action and get used to adjusting the amount of air flow via finger tip and set the paint flow via an adjustable knob on the end of the air brush. A good single action should cost about $40-$50. Even if you buy one of the "sets" which includes extra jars, lids, etc. it should be less than $100.

Here's a few sources that may be of help: http://www.airbrush.com/ : http://www.badger-airbrush.com/ : http://www.paascheairbrush.com/

Also, Airbrush 101 at http://www.arttalk.com/iwata/air-tip.htm - then scroll down the page to find the article.

[Anonymous]

The cheapest airbrush available ($18 at my LHS plus a can of air) does a fine job of painting the rails and ties at the same time prior to ballasting. Makes a huge difference. The black ties show through and make the finished ties a darker color than the rails. As for turnout points, if you add an auxiliary electrical switch (mechanically linked microswitch or the contacts of a turnout motor), paint in the points is not a problem - you will eventually get dirt in there anyway and have the same contact problem.

[Anonymous]

The cheapest airbrush available ($18 at my LHS plus a can of air) does a fine job of painting the rails and ties at the same time prior to ballasting. Makes a huge difference. The black ties show through and make the finished ties a darker color than the rails. As for turnout points, if you add an auxiliary electrical switch (mechanically linked microswitch or the contacts of a turnout motor), paint in the points is not a problem - you will eventually get dirt in there anyway and have the same contact problem.

[Anonymous]

I purchased a cheap airbrush for $8 at a tool import sale that goes around to armories. www.harborfreight.com sells an automotive touch up gun for $20 which works better than most airbrushes it you have an air compressor already. Airbrushes are fantastic if you are painting locos, but the touchup gun makes painting go faster on bigger jobs like track and mountains. You can also paint track with a spray can before you put it down. That's really the way to go. And you can quickly clean the paint off the tops of the rails with a green scotchbrite quicker than with a brightboy or masking or oiling. Brushing with a brush works too. As said already, it's well worth painting track.

[Anonymous]

I purchased a cheap airbrush for $8 at a tool import sale that goes around to armories. www.harborfreight.com sells an automotive touch up gun for $20 which works better than most airbrushes it you have an air compressor already. Airbrushes are fantastic if you are painting locos, but the touchup gun makes painting go faster on bigger jobs like track and mountains. You can also paint track with a spray can before you put it down. That's really the way to go. And you can quickly clean the paint off the tops of the rails with a green scotchbrite quicker than with a brightboy or masking or oiling. Brushing with a brush works too. As said already, it's well worth painting track.

[Anonymous]

I recommend painting the ties first, then ballasting, then paint the rails. If you look at the real world, the ballast on both sides of the rail are rusted the same colour as the rail. I know most articles tell us to paint the ties and rails before ballasting but then your ballast is uniform.

[Anonymous]

I recommend painting the ties first, then ballasting, then paint the rails. If you look at the real world, the ballast on both sides of the rail are rusted the same colour as the rail. I know most articles tell us to paint the ties and rails before ballasting but then your ballast is uniform.

[Puckdropper]

I don't recommend going for the cheapest airbrush you can find... If you want that, get a can of spray paint. At Walmart, they have 2 airbrushes, one for $15 and another for $30. Get the $30 one, as you can control paint width.

One other thing... If you're doing light airbrush work, don't spend $100 on a hobby compresser or $100 in cans of air... Get an air tank and adapter, fill it up to the mfgr's air pressure ratings, and have fun! That's what I did. It was only $20.

[Puckdropper]

I don't recommend going for the cheapest airbrush you can find... If you want that, get a can of spray paint. At Walmart, they have 2 airbrushes, one for $15 and another for $30. Get the $30 one, as you can control paint width.

One other thing... If you're doing light airbrush work, don't spend $100 on a hobby compresser or $100 in cans of air... Get an air tank and adapter, fill it up to the mfgr's air pressure ratings, and have fun! That's what I did. It was only $20.

[Anonymous]

Do I need to buy a fine tip if I go with the badger 200, or is the standard medium one ok for the rails and ties?.... Thanks for all the replies

[Anonymous]

Do I need to buy a fine tip if I go with the badger 200, or is the standard medium one ok for the rails and ties?.... Thanks for all the replies

[der5997]

Can't say much about the fine tip question except that my air brush came with one, and I'll use that for my N scale track. (this week, if all goes well.) One point I would like to make about paints. I use acrylics because of the water clean up, and the "no organic solvents" feature. However, I noticed that over time the rail heads on my weathered rail had a tendency to discolour and need serious cleaning. It looked like the paint somehow was creeping up over the railhead. I know this sounds improbable, and what I saw was likely the result of some chemical reaction, but it has made me wary of using acrylics for rail weathering. Anyone else come across this?

As far as your electrical connections go, if you solder the rail joiners you should have no problem. If you air brush you shouldn't have a problem, and if you hand paint with a very fluid paint on an unsoldered joiner you might have a problem. ( There are reasons for not soldering some joiners, but hat's another topic [:)] Your track power feeders would be soldered anyway, and won't give you any grief.

[der5997]

Can't say much about the fine tip question except that my air brush came with one, and I'll use that for my N scale track. (this week, if all goes well.) One point I would like to make about paints. I use acrylics because of the water clean up, and the "no organic solvents" feature. However, I noticed that over time the rail heads on my weathered rail had a tendency to discolour and need serious cleaning. It looked like the paint somehow was creeping up over the railhead. I know this sounds improbable, and what I saw was likely the result of some chemical reaction, but it has made me wary of using acrylics for rail weathering. Anyone else come across this?

As far as your electrical connections go, if you solder the rail joiners you should have no problem. If you air brush you shouldn't have a problem, and if you hand paint with a very fluid paint on an unsoldered joiner you might have a problem. ( There are reasons for not soldering some joiners, but hat's another topic [:)] Your track power feeders would be soldered anyway, and won't give you any grief.

[Wdlgln005]

I'd be reluctant to paint any Nscale track. Especially the parts needed for electrical contact & smooth operation. I'd go nowhere near moving points in turnouts. Weather the ballast and ties but leave the track alone. Another way to cover the shine along the right of way could be to plant lots of "weeds and other plant life to hide the side web of the rail.

[Wdlgln005]

I'd be reluctant to paint any Nscale track. Especially the parts needed for electrical contact & smooth operation. I'd go nowhere near moving points in turnouts. Weather the ballast and ties but leave the track alone. Another way to cover the shine along the right of way could be to plant lots of "weeds and other plant life to hide the side web of the rail.

[Puckdropper]

I'd try getting some oil-based paint and painting a test section of track, Acrylics are water clean-up, so they're probably water-based.

[Puckdropper]

I'd try getting some oil-based paint and painting a test section of track, Acrylics are water clean-up, so they're probably water-based.