I NEED SOME HELP FROM THE PRO'S

[Anonymous]

I am stating to work on a lay out. I already have the plans drawn out. the only quesion i have is I want to run approx 5 trains on this track with a maximum of two at a time. I have had people tell me go with dcc and I had one person tell me to get a seperate controller for each train. I am going with ho scale and will have approx. 30 -40 feet of connecting track with several baranches off, to store trains and do scene's. I have a very crabby wife who doesen't even like the idea. itold her i'm doing it regardless so smethingfairy inexpensive would be wonderful. I wont have a working train yard because all my trains are going to have the cars on them.

thanks fo the help

walt

[Anonymous]

I am stating to work on a lay out. I already have the plans drawn out. the only quesion i have is I want to run approx 5 trains on this track with a maximum of two at a time. I have had people tell me go with dcc and I had one person tell me to get a seperate controller for each train. I am going with ho scale and will have approx. 30 -40 feet of connecting track with several baranches off, to store trains and do scene's. I have a very crabby wife who doesen't even like the idea. itold her i'm doing it regardless so smethingfairy inexpensive would be wonderful. I wont have a working train yard because all my trains are going to have the cars on them.

thanks fo the help

walt

[dragenrider]

Hi, Walt,

I don't know if this will help, but I here's what I did . . .

I wanted to be able to park any number of complete trains, run two at the same time, and not spend a lot of money. Sound like you? Well, I went with cab control.

Cab control is using two power packs with a double throw switch between the packs and each strip of track. This means that I can run any track section(s) on one power pack and the other track section(s) in the off position or set to the second power pack. This is great for mainline running while switching in a yard. For my layout, it meant my branch line and my main line could run on different power packs.

If you need help with the wiring, look through several Model Railroader magazines and you are sure to come across the wiring diagram. It's simple to do and doesn't take much more time than wiring for DCC.

Oh, by the way, I went a step further and added a radio control throttle with the ability to switch between power packs. Now I can walk around the entire layout with my controller and run both trains without being stuck standing next to the power packs.

Now, as far as the crabby wife . . . you are on your own, Buddy!

Happy Rails,

Randy
aka dragenrider

[dragenrider]

Hi, Walt,

I don't know if this will help, but I here's what I did . . .

I wanted to be able to park any number of complete trains, run two at the same time, and not spend a lot of money. Sound like you? Well, I went with cab control.

Cab control is using two power packs with a double throw switch between the packs and each strip of track. This means that I can run any track section(s) on one power pack and the other track section(s) in the off position or set to the second power pack. This is great for mainline running while switching in a yard. For my layout, it meant my branch line and my main line could run on different power packs.

If you need help with the wiring, look through several Model Railroader magazines and you are sure to come across the wiring diagram. It's simple to do and doesn't take much more time than wiring for DCC.

Oh, by the way, I went a step further and added a radio control throttle with the ability to switch between power packs. Now I can walk around the entire layout with my controller and run both trains without being stuck standing next to the power packs.

Now, as far as the crabby wife . . . you are on your own, Buddy!

Happy Rails,

Randy
aka dragenrider

[Anonymous]

Walt,
You don't say how much your crabby wife will allow you to spend on your system. DCC is where model rail roading is going. All the R&D is in that direction, no one is trying to "advance" dc. For what you want to do, with simplicity of wiring, and ease of running, dcc will work to your advantage. I won't mention sound, lighting, power routing, animation, uncoupling from the engine, and less reliance on track - that would only confuse the issue.

The number of cabs you want to have equals the number of people running your layout. You alone can handle two trains and that is about it. If your crabby wife will allow it, consider the Zephyr from Digitrax; its the best entry level system out there right now. You probably can use one of your traditional dc power packs on it if you own one.

Additional cabs can be purchased and snuck into the house. Digitrax has a line of cheaper easier to use one's for non-dcc literate guests.

Sounds like your wife should be the dispatcher.

[Anonymous]

Walt,
You don't say how much your crabby wife will allow you to spend on your system. DCC is where model rail roading is going. All the R&D is in that direction, no one is trying to "advance" dc. For what you want to do, with simplicity of wiring, and ease of running, dcc will work to your advantage. I won't mention sound, lighting, power routing, animation, uncoupling from the engine, and less reliance on track - that would only confuse the issue.

The number of cabs you want to have equals the number of people running your layout. You alone can handle two trains and that is about it. If your crabby wife will allow it, consider the Zephyr from Digitrax; its the best entry level system out there right now. You probably can use one of your traditional dc power packs on it if you own one.

Additional cabs can be purchased and snuck into the house. Digitrax has a line of cheaper easier to use one's for non-dcc literate guests.

Sounds like your wife should be the dispatcher.

[Anonymous]

I'm not a DCC guy, never will be. Too much to convert.
For almost anybody starting out I would recommend they seriously consider DCC.

Do it right the first time!

[Anonymous]

I'm not a DCC guy, never will be. Too much to convert.
For almost anybody starting out I would recommend they seriously consider DCC.

Do it right the first time!

[dano99a]

Walt-

Here's my thoughts, for whatever it's worth...

The only reason I would suggest waiting on DCC is because (in my opinion) it's still in it's infant stages, kind of like when a new piece of software comes out, usually the first few versions are kinda buggy(windows 95). Don't take me wrong, I'm not bashing DCC, what DCC does is great, but I think it will be better in time(example coupling and un-coupling). It's not hard to convert to DCC after using regular DC power packs, just keep in mind that the larger the layout the longer it will take to convert.

FYI: Don't make the mistake others I know have made by buying used track off ebay to save money when they were starting out. DCC doesn't work well (if at all) on old brass/copper track. Invest for the future, buy Nickel Silver track and keep it CLEAN.

Another point: DCC power packs can be expensive, though the starter packs are affordable. BUT, when you add up the cost of 2 "good" DC packs you'll find the cost is close to a beginner or middle-of-the-road DCC pack. This is assuming you bought engines that come with a DCC decoder installed, otherwise you need to get the decoders for your engines in addition to you DCC power pack.

Here's what I did at home:
I went cab control as well, I have 3 power packs. One big one (higher VA) for the main line so I can run 3 complete trains at once without a problem. Then I have a TECH 4 with 2 throttles on it, I use this for my yard. All three are hooked up to a wireless remote so I too can walk around my layout without having to stand at the throttle. I usually use the wireless for the yard work.

Here what a friend and I did:
He started out with 2 DC packs(yes he bought used track) ran that for a while doing exactly what your talking about. DCC became more and more popular so he bought a DCC pack and decoders. The track he had obviously gave him problems so we ripped that up and replaced it all. He had a 16 x 16 layout it took us 5 nights to convert it. It could have been done quicker if we'd skipped the track part and not have to fuss with his wiring. Since then he replaced the DCC pack with a bigger one??

Hope this helps, just remember the bottom line "Have Fun"
I agree with the gentleman above, your wife should be the dispatcher.

DANO
Columbus, Oh
C&O lives on!!!

[dano99a]

Walt-

Here's my thoughts, for whatever it's worth...

The only reason I would suggest waiting on DCC is because (in my opinion) it's still in it's infant stages, kind of like when a new piece of software comes out, usually the first few versions are kinda buggy(windows 95). Don't take me wrong, I'm not bashing DCC, what DCC does is great, but I think it will be better in time(example coupling and un-coupling). It's not hard to convert to DCC after using regular DC power packs, just keep in mind that the larger the layout the longer it will take to convert.

FYI: Don't make the mistake others I know have made by buying used track off ebay to save money when they were starting out. DCC doesn't work well (if at all) on old brass/copper track. Invest for the future, buy Nickel Silver track and keep it CLEAN.

Another point: DCC power packs can be expensive, though the starter packs are affordable. BUT, when you add up the cost of 2 "good" DC packs you'll find the cost is close to a beginner or middle-of-the-road DCC pack. This is assuming you bought engines that come with a DCC decoder installed, otherwise you need to get the decoders for your engines in addition to you DCC power pack.

Here's what I did at home:
I went cab control as well, I have 3 power packs. One big one (higher VA) for the main line so I can run 3 complete trains at once without a problem. Then I have a TECH 4 with 2 throttles on it, I use this for my yard. All three are hooked up to a wireless remote so I too can walk around my layout without having to stand at the throttle. I usually use the wireless for the yard work.

Here what a friend and I did:
He started out with 2 DC packs(yes he bought used track) ran that for a while doing exactly what your talking about. DCC became more and more popular so he bought a DCC pack and decoders. The track he had obviously gave him problems so we ripped that up and replaced it all. He had a 16 x 16 layout it took us 5 nights to convert it. It could have been done quicker if we'd skipped the track part and not have to fuss with his wiring. Since then he replaced the DCC pack with a bigger one??

Hope this helps, just remember the bottom line "Have Fun"
I agree with the gentleman above, your wife should be the dispatcher.

DANO
Columbus, Oh
C&O lives on!!!

[Anonymous]

I don't agree, if your wife is the dispactcher she may tell you where to put your trains LOL DCC is the way to go. Some "Old timers" will disagree, but they haven't tryed it and are being ... "old timers".

[Anonymous]

I don't agree, if your wife is the dispactcher she may tell you where to put your trains LOL DCC is the way to go. Some "Old timers" will disagree, but they haven't tryed it and are being ... "old timers".

[Anonymous]

I couple guys told me at a train show several years ago, if I ever went to DCC, I would never look back. I did and I havent. There is so much less hassle with wiring, and running, you should definately consider it

[Anonymous]

I couple guys told me at a train show several years ago, if I ever went to DCC, I would never look back. I did and I havent. There is so much less hassle with wiring, and running, you should definately consider it