Wiring for DCC and DC

[Anonymous]

I've seen several threads talking about how to wire for DCC, but none that talk about supporting 'dual mode' operation, or at least allowing a gradual transition.

I'm planning to start construction of a layout soon, and don't plan to incorporate DCC initially (the budget just won't support it). Plus, I already have all the selectons/controllers/etc. I need salvaged from an earlier layout.

Is there something I can do during initial construction to have the layout pre-wired for an eventual move to DCC, to make that transition easier when it comes? Will it be possible to run both DCC-equipped and non-DCC equipment on the layout during the transition phase until all equipment is DCC-enabled?

Mike

[Anonymous]

I've seen several threads talking about how to wire for DCC, but none that talk about supporting 'dual mode' operation, or at least allowing a gradual transition.

I'm planning to start construction of a layout soon, and don't plan to incorporate DCC initially (the budget just won't support it). Plus, I already have all the selectons/controllers/etc. I need salvaged from an earlier layout.

Is there something I can do during initial construction to have the layout pre-wired for an eventual move to DCC, to make that transition easier when it comes? Will it be possible to run both DCC-equipped and non-DCC equipment on the layout during the transition phase until all equipment is DCC-enabled?

Mike

[Anonymous]

Block-based Cab control (NOT Common-Rail) will allow you to simply install your DCC system by replacing one of the cabs (or leave an extra Cab hookup for the DCC system).

This will require that you make sure any power-routing (Metal-frog) turnouts are setup to be DCC ready and Reverse loops are wired to DCC-compatible standards. DCC is much more sensitive to momentary shorts.

The other gotcha is the power-bleed when a DCC locomotive over-runs a block set to DCC into one set to DC, this can kill DC power packs (There are solutions, I'm just not sure f the exact details. I know people are using Autotive lightbulbs as current sinks as a solution, but am not sure exactly how they wire them)

[Anonymous]

Block-based Cab control (NOT Common-Rail) will allow you to simply install your DCC system by replacing one of the cabs (or leave an extra Cab hookup for the DCC system).

This will require that you make sure any power-routing (Metal-frog) turnouts are setup to be DCC ready and Reverse loops are wired to DCC-compatible standards. DCC is much more sensitive to momentary shorts.

The other gotcha is the power-bleed when a DCC locomotive over-runs a block set to DCC into one set to DC, this can kill DC power packs (There are solutions, I'm just not sure f the exact details. I know people are using Autotive lightbulbs as current sinks as a solution, but am not sure exactly how they wire them)

[Anonymous]

I haven't even built my benchwork yet but the concept and image in my mind of what I want to do is becoming clearer with each passing day of surfing and reading railroad magazines. I like the idea of DCC and will probably go with it but I dusted off my DC pulse control supply I built in 1965 and it still works so it will be useful.

[Anonymous]

I haven't even built my benchwork yet but the concept and image in my mind of what I want to do is becoming clearer with each passing day of surfing and reading railroad magazines. I like the idea of DCC and will probably go with it but I dusted off my DC pulse control supply I built in 1965 and it still works so it will be useful.

[Anonymous]

To limit current, an incandescent light bulb works as a thyrister; that is, it comes on and becomes a resister at higher curents. Serves to make you aware of a problem and protects circuits. On the old Marnold throttles we used a 25 Watt household lamp and that limited current to about 2.5 amps. (You can use any 25 Watt incandescent lamp that will suffer more than 16 volts.) I like this arrangement better than a circuit breaker because it resets as soon as you remove the short. It is best to locate the lamp near the power source or the current sensitive elements.

[Anonymous]

To limit current, an incandescent light bulb works as a thyrister; that is, it comes on and becomes a resister at higher curents. Serves to make you aware of a problem and protects circuits. On the old Marnold throttles we used a 25 Watt household lamp and that limited current to about 2.5 amps. (You can use any 25 Watt incandescent lamp that will suffer more than 16 volts.) I like this arrangement better than a circuit breaker because it resets as soon as you remove the short. It is best to locate the lamp near the power source or the current sensitive elements.

[Anonymous]

Most DCC I have seen, mine included, will run non dcc units as #1 on the dcc controller. So when you get the DCC you can still run 1 or more units without dcc, the non dcc unit will all slow down and speed up at once (act as one). DCC is really quite easy, it just scares people because they hear horror stories or try to make it harder than it really is. I was the same until I tryed it. Now I wonder what we ever did without it. Kind of like computers! Only negatives, track need to be clean and cheap locomotives still run like cheap locomotives only worse. Some old cheap units will likely smoke the motors so don't run them. I smoked an old RS-3 AHM on it. But the same would happened with any pulse supply so should I blame DCC? Reverse loops are done with a reverse module. The parts (all I bought ie MRC) have instructions that show how to hook them up. Hardest part was converting the first Athearn's loco. The new Genisis and Atlas, etc. all have plugs now so they are easy. You can even use DCC for sound, foward revese lights, and turnout control. One could even hook up building lights and other animation to it. It's easy.

[Anonymous]

Most DCC I have seen, mine included, will run non dcc units as #1 on the dcc controller. So when you get the DCC you can still run 1 or more units without dcc, the non dcc unit will all slow down and speed up at once (act as one). DCC is really quite easy, it just scares people because they hear horror stories or try to make it harder than it really is. I was the same until I tryed it. Now I wonder what we ever did without it. Kind of like computers! Only negatives, track need to be clean and cheap locomotives still run like cheap locomotives only worse. Some old cheap units will likely smoke the motors so don't run them. I smoked an old RS-3 AHM on it. But the same would happened with any pulse supply so should I blame DCC? Reverse loops are done with a reverse module. The parts (all I bought ie MRC) have instructions that show how to hook them up. Hardest part was converting the first Athearn's loco. The new Genisis and Atlas, etc. all have plugs now so they are easy. You can even use DCC for sound, foward revese lights, and turnout control. One could even hook up building lights and other animation to it. It's easy.

[Anonymous]

Oh. as to overloads and shorts, the dcc just shuts off until you fix them. No damage done.

[Anonymous]

Oh. as to overloads and shorts, the dcc just shuts off until you fix them. No damage done.

[Anonymous]

As to damage to other power pack on other blocks, beats me. All you need is one dcc and several controllers. Actually you only need more controllers for other operators. On controller can run up to 64 units at once. You just flip a switch to the loco # and it remembers till you tell it otherwise. So you like turn to 3, set its speed, turn to 5 and set its speed, and turn to 6 and set its speed. They all go 'till you turn to their postion and tell them otherwise, you hit the panic button and shut em all down, or you have a train wreck.

[Anonymous]

As to damage to other power pack on other blocks, beats me. All you need is one dcc and several controllers. Actually you only need more controllers for other operators. On controller can run up to 64 units at once. You just flip a switch to the loco # and it remembers till you tell it otherwise. So you like turn to 3, set its speed, turn to 5 and set its speed, and turn to 6 and set its speed. They all go 'till you turn to their postion and tell them otherwise, you hit the panic button and shut em all down, or you have a train wreck.

[BR60103]

There are a number of places where you will find that you want to wire DCC differently than DC.
On passing sidings, in DC you put one insulated gap in the rail beyond the frog. In DCC you put an insulated gap just beyond each frog and then wire the passing siding. That way you can run out of either end, no matter which way the opposite switch is set.
Oh, your reverse loops will be more convenient for DCC if you put in a reverse loop module, but it won't work with DC.

[BR60103]

There are a number of places where you will find that you want to wire DCC differently than DC.
On passing sidings, in DC you put one insulated gap in the rail beyond the frog. In DCC you put an insulated gap just beyond each frog and then wire the passing siding. That way you can run out of either end, no matter which way the opposite switch is set.
Oh, your reverse loops will be more convenient for DCC if you put in a reverse loop module, but it won't work with DC.