hand laying track

[LocoHorn]

could someone give me a source for instruction on hand laying track? I'm sure there have been articles in MR but I can't seem to track down any articles.
Thanks.

[LocoHorn]

could someone give me a source for instruction on hand laying track? I'm sure there have been articles in MR but I can't seem to track down any articles.
Thanks.

[Anonymous]

'Trackwork & Lineside Detail for your Model Railroad' has in depth instructions on laying track and building turnouts.

[Anonymous]

'Trackwork & Lineside Detail for your Model Railroad' has in depth instructions on laying track and building turnouts.

[Anonymous]

I'm using flextrack for my layout, but the best article I've found for handlaying turnouts is Tony Koester's in the December '89 issue of Model Railroader. It's a great step-by-step article that takes you through the whole process. My first couple were a little shakey, but I switched to smaller spikes and started leaving the points unhinged, like Tony does in the article, and my handlaid ones were better than the pre-fab ones I was using, as far as smooth tracking through the frog. I used some pieces of brass for the headblocks, instead of the Clover House ties he used(the brass pieces were a lot tougher to isolate electrically), and I also used code 100, but I still had a lot of luck. I think I handlaid about 15 or 16 turnouts like that.
I've dismantled that layout(I hated tearing up those turnouts), but the benchwork is up for the next one, and I've switched to code 83 rail(a little more flexible) and bought some ties from Clover House. These look like they'll really do the trick. I need some small track nails, which I'll pick up on Thursday, and I'll be ready to start laying track on the Ohio NorthEastern this weekend.
I got lucky and found this issue at a yard sale. I'm sure you can get a photocopy by contacting Model Rairoader. It would be well worth it.

[Anonymous]

I'm using flextrack for my layout, but the best article I've found for handlaying turnouts is Tony Koester's in the December '89 issue of Model Railroader. It's a great step-by-step article that takes you through the whole process. My first couple were a little shakey, but I switched to smaller spikes and started leaving the points unhinged, like Tony does in the article, and my handlaid ones were better than the pre-fab ones I was using, as far as smooth tracking through the frog. I used some pieces of brass for the headblocks, instead of the Clover House ties he used(the brass pieces were a lot tougher to isolate electrically), and I also used code 100, but I still had a lot of luck. I think I handlaid about 15 or 16 turnouts like that.
I've dismantled that layout(I hated tearing up those turnouts), but the benchwork is up for the next one, and I've switched to code 83 rail(a little more flexible) and bought some ties from Clover House. These look like they'll really do the trick. I need some small track nails, which I'll pick up on Thursday, and I'll be ready to start laying track on the Ohio NorthEastern this weekend.
I got lucky and found this issue at a yard sale. I'm sure you can get a photocopy by contacting Model Rairoader. It would be well worth it.

[dknelson]

My first hand laid track used Tru Scale's milled roadbed where the ties and "tie plates" were more or less milled into the roadbed -- you just placed rail on the tie plate and drove in the spikes. I used a device that held four spikes in place gauged to HO -- I have not seen one for sale in years.
Anyway that teaches you the basics. From there handlaying on individual ties is the next logical step. I think Tru Scale still makes the special milled roadbed so I would suggest investigating it.
Dave Nelson

[dknelson]

My first hand laid track used Tru Scale's milled roadbed where the ties and "tie plates" were more or less milled into the roadbed -- you just placed rail on the tie plate and drove in the spikes. I used a device that held four spikes in place gauged to HO -- I have not seen one for sale in years.
Anyway that teaches you the basics. From there handlaying on individual ties is the next logical step. I think Tru Scale still makes the special milled roadbed so I would suggest investigating it.
Dave Nelson

[Sperandeo]

Like Dave Nelson, I started years ago wih Tru-Scale self-gauging roadbed. When I was 16, I saw a 14-year-old give a clinic on scratchbuilding turnouts. Sure I could do anything a kid 2 years younger could do, I went right out and bought a soldering iron. My very first turnout worked, and though I've used flextrack and ready-made tunouts on many layouts, I've always really enjoyed building my own.

For someone looking to get started, Tony Koester's December 1989 MR article, the one reprinted in the "Track and Lineside Detail" book, is the best explanation I know of. The techniques it describes are basically what I'm doing on my own layout, with only minor differences.

So long,

Andy

[Sperandeo]

Like Dave Nelson, I started years ago wih Tru-Scale self-gauging roadbed. When I was 16, I saw a 14-year-old give a clinic on scratchbuilding turnouts. Sure I could do anything a kid 2 years younger could do, I went right out and bought a soldering iron. My very first turnout worked, and though I've used flextrack and ready-made tunouts on many layouts, I've always really enjoyed building my own.

For someone looking to get started, Tony Koester's December 1989 MR article, the one reprinted in the "Track and Lineside Detail" book, is the best explanation I know of. The techniques it describes are basically what I'm doing on my own layout, with only minor differences.

So long,

Andy

[Anonymous]

Jeffair,

Good advice from some that know!!

All I can add is this: don't be intimidated by it and especially if your first turnout isn't perfect. It gets better each time and only takes a little practice. I lay my ties individually and I find it very relaxing and a good stress relieving tool. I tried tie jigs but find it easier to just do them one-by-one. I'm working in S scale and using codes 83, 70 and 55 rails.

Have fun and enjoy!!

Roger

[Anonymous]

Jeffair,

Good advice from some that know!!

All I can add is this: don't be intimidated by it and especially if your first turnout isn't perfect. It gets better each time and only takes a little practice. I lay my ties individually and I find it very relaxing and a good stress relieving tool. I tried tie jigs but find it easier to just do them one-by-one. I'm working in S scale and using codes 83, 70 and 55 rails.

Have fun and enjoy!!

Roger

[Anonymous]

I handlay N scale code 40 (I can already hear the "gasps" of shock). And, to answer your question, yes, I AM a glutton for punishment. Anyway, I found turnout templates from www.handlaidtrack.com are absolutely perfect for modelling turnouts. For all other track, I looked up some old N scale and Model Railroading issues, which suggest laying the ties, then sanding them level, then ballasting, and then using an adhesive called Pliobond and a soldering iron to fix the rail to the ties. Works great, have had no problems. Just have lots of ventilation when using Pliobond..........(remember....rule G still applies). I used to spike rails until I switched to code 40, having a nice Kato locomotive go airborne after hitting a spike is not my idea of a good time. Most importantly, however, is patience! Lots of it! But I believe to this day that handlaid is hands down the best track, any scale, period.

Matt

[Anonymous]

I handlay N scale code 40 (I can already hear the "gasps" of shock). And, to answer your question, yes, I AM a glutton for punishment. Anyway, I found turnout templates from www.handlaidtrack.com are absolutely perfect for modelling turnouts. For all other track, I looked up some old N scale and Model Railroading issues, which suggest laying the ties, then sanding them level, then ballasting, and then using an adhesive called Pliobond and a soldering iron to fix the rail to the ties. Works great, have had no problems. Just have lots of ventilation when using Pliobond..........(remember....rule G still applies). I used to spike rails until I switched to code 40, having a nice Kato locomotive go airborne after hitting a spike is not my idea of a good time. Most importantly, however, is patience! Lots of it! But I believe to this day that handlaid is hands down the best track, any scale, period.

Matt

[RhB_HJ]

QUOTE: Originally posted by marcmr

I handlay N scale code 40 (I can already hear the "gasps" of shock). And, to answer your question, yes, I AM a glutton for punishment. Anyway, I found turnout templates from www.handlaidtrack.com are absolutely perfect for modelling turnouts. For all other track, I looked up some old N scale and Model Railroading issues, which suggest laying the ties, then sanding them level, then ballasting, and then using an adhesive called Pliobond and a soldering iron to fix the rail to the ties. Works great, have had no problems. Just have lots of ventilation when using Pliobond..........(remember....rule G still applies). I used to spike rails until I switched to code 40, having a nice Kato locomotive go airborne after hitting a spike is not my idea of a good time. Most importantly, however, is patience! Lots of it! But I believe to this day that handlaid is hands down the best track, any scale, period.

Matt

Matt,

Did a Code55 HOn3 module for a customer - with spikes! Lots of fun. No airborne engines, the smallest ME spikes (only stuff I use for HO) worked great.

Handlaid is the best track because if you know what you're doing, have the patience and the eye for the "glitches" it will give you perfectly operating track every time.
If it doesn't, you know just which butt to kick.[;)][:D][:D]
I have yet to try the Pliobond method, just waiting for a customer who wants a Nm layout (6.5mm trackgauge) duplicating all the nice switch work at Andermatt.[:)][:)]

[RhB_HJ]

QUOTE: Originally posted by marcmr

I handlay N scale code 40 (I can already hear the "gasps" of shock). And, to answer your question, yes, I AM a glutton for punishment. Anyway, I found turnout templates from www.handlaidtrack.com are absolutely perfect for modelling turnouts. For all other track, I looked up some old N scale and Model Railroading issues, which suggest laying the ties, then sanding them level, then ballasting, and then using an adhesive called Pliobond and a soldering iron to fix the rail to the ties. Works great, have had no problems. Just have lots of ventilation when using Pliobond..........(remember....rule G still applies). I used to spike rails until I switched to code 40, having a nice Kato locomotive go airborne after hitting a spike is not my idea of a good time. Most importantly, however, is patience! Lots of it! But I believe to this day that handlaid is hands down the best track, any scale, period.

Matt

Matt,

Did a Code55 HOn3 module for a customer - with spikes! Lots of fun. No airborne engines, the smallest ME spikes (only stuff I use for HO) worked great.

Handlaid is the best track because if you know what you're doing, have the patience and the eye for the "glitches" it will give you perfectly operating track every time.
If it doesn't, you know just which butt to kick.[;)][:D][:D]
I have yet to try the Pliobond method, just waiting for a customer who wants a Nm layout (6.5mm trackgauge) duplicating all the nice switch work at Andermatt.[:)][:)]

[Anonymous]

Years ago, Kalmbach Video produced a tape, hosted by Lorell Joiner, that will answer all your questions about handlaying track. If you can locate or borrow a copy, then by all means do it. I also build all my visible turnouts using the information in the article by Tony Koester. I have not found a commercial turnout that works or looks as good. I handlay tangent track only where people can put their noses right into the scene, otherwise I use both Shinohara and Rail Craft code 70 track on visible portions of my layout. All my staging is Atlas code 100 flextrack, and my staging area turnouts are built from an article in published in MR eons ago. These turnouts use code 100 rail and are of the moveable frog variety, just like the old Tru-Scale hi-speed turnouts.

Tom

[Anonymous]

Years ago, Kalmbach Video produced a tape, hosted by Lorell Joiner, that will answer all your questions about handlaying track. If you can locate or borrow a copy, then by all means do it. I also build all my visible turnouts using the information in the article by Tony Koester. I have not found a commercial turnout that works or looks as good. I handlay tangent track only where people can put their noses right into the scene, otherwise I use both Shinohara and Rail Craft code 70 track on visible portions of my layout. All my staging is Atlas code 100 flextrack, and my staging area turnouts are built from an article in published in MR eons ago. These turnouts use code 100 rail and are of the moveable frog variety, just like the old Tru-Scale hi-speed turnouts.

Tom