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Weathering: try everything you've read here, and also refer to some weathering articles in MR & RMC. For experimenting, pick up a few "junker" cars at a train show, for a buck or two each, doesn't matter if they even HAVE trucks or couplers, let alone good ones. Use these to try the methods out. Weighting...I use pennies in house cars, cabooses, covered hoppers,or any other closed body cars....glued in with Goo or Pliobond..these weights of course, only cost pennies ! [;)] I have a small household-type weigh scale, and put all the unassembled kit parts in the tray, then add pennies until I reach the NMRA recommended weight. For open cars, there are many ways to weight them, especially if they are to appear "loaded", like hoppers, gondolas, ore cars, flat cars, but try to keep the majority of the weight down as low as possible. (For instance, in a loaded ore car or hopper, I use fine sand down in the car bottom, then a lighter material like cat litter to top up the load.[:o)] On plastic bodied cars, that bottom-sand layer can be treated like bonded-ballast, and become a molded, removable, one-piece chunk.[:D] Plastic or plastic-metal cars : A way to weight those "empties" is with modeling clay pressed into the underframe structural members of the car..I have also seen BB's or split shot, in turn, pressed into the clay. This clay can be removed if you want to sell the car someday. Plastic cars: Another method for the "empties" is to squeeze split shot or other lead fishing sinkers into appropriate square or rectangular shapes in a vise, snug fit them into the underside structurals, and add a bit of white glue. These can also be removed [ with a bit of water ]someday, if you wish. regards Mike
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