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Simple fixes for HO engines
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Athearn BB Locomotives - Vibration / whine <br /> <br />This is often caused by excess slack at the end of the worm gear. You can solve this by getting a thin teflon washer to shim it. If teflon is not available, get a brass washer. I'd also suggest gluing in place the motor-end of the driveline going to each truck. Use silicone caluk to do it. This will help to remove some of the extra slop in the system. Silicone will also allow you to pull it apart if you really have to. <br /> <br /> <br />Any locomotive - poor traction <br /> <br />Fill the locomotive with lead. Diesels are easy, the shell almost always has some extra space along the top where you can add a strip of lead. You can forge the lead into shape by gently pounding it with a hammer or squeezing it with a large pair of pliers. Glue it in place, and be sure to wash your hands when done. I've added up to 12 ounces to an AC4400, and 8 ounces to a GP-60. <br /> <br />If you want to pour the weight in place you can use either very small shotgun shot (larfer number the smaller) or powdered tungsten. Shotgun shot is about $15 for a 10 pound bag. Powdered tungsten is heavier than lead, but costs $10-15 per pound. <br /> <br />Lead is dangerous if you eat it, but otherwise safe. <br /> <br /> <br />Athearn BB locomotives - Poor pickup / response, especially when curving a certain direction. <br /> <br />The problem is the floating pickup that spans between the top of the motor and the trucks. You can solve this by soldering a very fine wire between the motor pickup and the trucks. Commonly called "hotwiring" the Athearn. Other locomotives may have the same problem. I'd also suggest using a white ink pen eraser (one of the harder ones) to "erase" the armature, which will polish it and improve the electrical pickup. <br /> <br />You can also oil the engine with some light oil. Use a toothpick and apply VERY LITTLE to where the shaft leaves the motor. If ANY oil gets on the armature you're in BIG trouble. <br /> <br />Mark in Utah
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