HO Marklin Curved Turnout

[Anonymous]

Any of them, C TRACK or M TRACK in HO

1st, could you make them compatable with basic Atlas tracks (With some mods of course)

2nd. Are they any good? as far as relibility. (Going through them on mailine speed)

The reason I ask is because I'm kind of fed up with Peco curved turnout as you "most of the time" have to elevate the outside of track for non-derailments, and the smaller radius is a little tight. You can't go through these at mainline speed.
I'm also kind of fed up with Shinohara turnouts as the throwbars don't stay snugged to the rail like Peco turnouts. I use cork roadbed on my layout and occured these problems many times. Just with my curved turnouts. So I got to thinking, What about Marklin? They turnouts comes pre roadbed based and with motor mounted underneath. Looks like it would be nice & smooth.
What I would like to know is, will there be a problem with current flow from basic atlas track to the Marklin track. Also, what are your experiances with TRU-SCALE turnouts with the wooden roadbed. Looks more detailed to me all around. Note: I saw the other post that may related to this topic.

[Anonymous]

Forget about Marklin......Excellent quality but Marklin is wired for three rail. The center studs are one polarity and both rails are wired to the other polarity. Electrically robust, but not too good for our 2 rail systems. NEM standard wheel width is slightly narrower than NMRA standard. This means all the guard rails will have to shimmed and the points are out of gauge...As to the quality: I had some that worked well for 30 years....

You need to improve your skills with peco and Shinohara. The shinohara points have to be held in place with a throw or a switch motor. Check your track alignment and other roadbed issues. I use peco and Shinohara as many other modelers do with no problems.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for your resopnse. My skills with peco switches are just fine. It's just the curved ones I have trouble with. 2 of my curve ones work fine, but I need to replace one as I can't seem to figure why my trains are derailing on it and it's just the inside radius. I tried everything. I'm just going to replace it. The Marklin thing was just an idea as I never had any experiance with them. I just need some insight on them and I got it. Thanks again

[Leon Silverman]

Two things you would want to yuse to check out your probelm switch. An NMRA track gauge to make sure your flangeways and spacings are correct., and a bubble level to check for dips or abrupt changes in tilt . A bubble level is about the size of a half dollar with the bobble on top. You slide it along the track and observe the position of the bubble. If it moves, you found a dip or bump in your track.

[Anonymous]

Oh yeah, I got 1 of those, I think I'll do that. Thanks