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Do you glue down or nail down your track?
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I have always used nails (or scale spikes) into (sealed) Homosote simply because it forgivable to errant spiking. Even with the best planning, I've often wanted to modify the configuration of track plan in one area. Components can be taken back up with no damage, and with the price of turnouts and track, that's a big advantage for me. I can appreciate the perils of hammering nails into plywood. It's tedious and the "cuss factor" is 9.5 on the Richter Scale, so there is probably a big merit for caulk and glue in those situations. My concern would be that one would have to be 100% right on track alignment. A hammer is never needed with Homosote, just some light pressure with a center punch and track laying is a joy! For mainline profiles, I'll glue down cork on top of the Homosote, then remove the material with a Shureform for transitions to sidings and yards. <br /> <br />Homosote is a dirty material to cut (best done outside), sometimes hard to find, and expensive but the cost of one 4' x 8' sheet = a little more than a single turnout these days...so the time, trouble and expense are well worth it. The shrinkage problem (often discussed) is taken care of by sealing with latex paint (on top and sides) and gluing to the plywood laminent on the bottom. It's also been given a bad rap for thickness inconsistentcies. These occurances have been rare. I just check the surface with a long, metal, straight-edge before painting and fill with wood putty before painting. <br /> <br />This all an "old line" approach but the layouts I've built have had bullet-proof track work.
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