**CAUTION** speaker cutting

[Anonymous]

I tried to cut down a 3/4" soundtraxx speaker as suggested in the Feb. 2003 MR and ruined the speaker. I tried to use a flush cutting nipper but it started to bend the frame. I next used a razor saw and cut the sides off. The speaker did not work after that. I think what may have happened was metal chips got stuck to the magnet inside the speaker.

Has anyone ever successfully cut a speaker down?
If so, with what

[Anonymous]

Hello jkraker,

I've successfully cut down Soundtraxx speaker frames with Maxon flush-cutting nippers, the kind used to trim rail to length. The trick I've found is to take little bites, then file the edges to the size needed for the final fit.

I recommend purchasing an oval speaker, which should fit more easily without a lot of trimming.

Regards,

Paul Schmidt
Contributing Editor
Trains.com

[Anonymous]

i was using the same cutter and it looked like it was going to bend the frame. I will try taking smaller bites next time. I would use the oval speaker but I am actually putting the speaker in the cab of an RS-3 so I don't have to leave out the weights. I got the new speaker in with out having to cut it by replacing the cab windows with .010 styrene. I did have to thin the cab front and back a little with a dremal tool. It worked out good and I still have all the weight in the shell.

Thanks

[Anonymous]

OK, now you've got me even more curious: Where are you putting the sound decoder. I'm asking this while eyeing my Atlas Classic SP&S RS-3.

Paul

[Anonymous]

That's easy, use the DSD-150LC Plug and Play for that replaces the Atlas circuit board with the combo decoder/sound board. You have to cut off the part of the weight that sticks into the shell above the drive shafts. Actually, you would not have to cut that part off on the long hood end but it makes me feel safer. It gets really close to the ends of the soundtraxx board. I build a small speaker enclosure in the area of the cab and aim the speaker up to the inside roof of the cab (3/4" dia speaker). I open the side windows in the cab to let out the sound. Paint the styrene sound enclosure black and glue some cut down figures to help draw the attention away from the "big black box" in the cab. I can send you some digital photos if you would like to see them. I have done three so far. I wanted to cut down the speaker to avoid having to thin the front and back cab walls. I also wanted to be able to use the stock front and rear cab glass. Also, with the DSD-150LC you will want to program the exaust volumn (CV-122) to 255 (hex FF). The DSD-150LC decoders run a little on the quit side compaired to the DSD-150 and DSX-150. For RS-3 the only way to get sound and keep that much needed weight is to use the 150LC plug and play decoders. If you want the pictures email me at [e-mail] , that goes for anyone out there.