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I've converted one of their C-Liners (same circuit board as the F3 you also mention that you're looking for advice on). Very simple job - you need to cut three circuit board tracks (places marked with an "x", I just used a cutting wheel in a rotary tool which worked perfectly). When you come to fit the decoder, best advice would be to buy a wired one (rather than one with a plug) - those holes in the board aren't at the right spacing so best approach is to solder to the "pads" around the holes (or solder the wires through the holes) instead - just be careful to avoid possible shorts (good trick would be to solder one side's wires, cover with insulating tape, then solder the other side's wires into place). I mounted the decoder at the back of the existing board using a lump of blue-tack - insulating, and where the decoder is it's effectively suspended in mid-air over the rear truck, which has to be good for cooling. I did this in preference to removing the original board as the original board has the wiring for the headlight (including a beefy resistor) built in - saving me effort in replacing it and helping to make a neater installation. Hope this is of some help! <br /> <br />P.S. I fitted one of the cheap Bachmann single-function decoders to mine and now wish I hadn't - the speed curve factory-programmed into these is terrible - a massive spike at around speed step 2 or 3 makes slow running (or even pulling away without spreading your passengers across the back wall of the cars) impossible. I'm planning to retro-fit Lenz 1025 decoders when funds are available - these have BEMF, are silent, and have a far better factory speed curve.
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