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[quote]QUOTE: Originally posted by mecovey Bangert1 - Thanks for the link - I have a couple of these. I took one to an operating session yesterday and everybody was impressed with the detail and pulling power and throughly unimpressed with the headlight/marker boards. One guy asked me if I had put in orange christmas tree bulbs. I would be very appreciative of instructions on how to remedy this. Also, did you have any problem getting the address changed from 03? [/quote] Genesis Challenger Headlight change instructions. If you use your exploded view of the Challenger along with these instructions, it will help you to understand how the engine is put together. The exploded view for the LED replacement is on page 16 of the manual. The headlight assembly can be removed by gently pulling up on the assembly. It plugs into the air pump compressor shield. Remove the air pumps next. They have small tabs and can be removed by using a small flat screwdriver to pry them gently off of the front pilot assembly. The tabs are the key to lock the shield assembly onto the chassis also. After the right and left side air pumps are removed, the air pump shields can be removed by separating the tabs from the pilot assembly. If you look at the exploded view of the running gear, you will spot the tabs. Do this carefully since no glue is used in these applications and you must reassemble the parts after the LED replacement. When the air compressor shield is lifted off of the pilot, the LED is exposed in center the front engine frame. I was surprised on how clever the engineers were to design this model to be taken apart so easily. Any 3mm LED can be soldered into the spot where the original LED is located. I like the Golden White ones better than the Sunny white LED’s, but anything is better than the one that comes with it. If you lift up the LED with the small circuit board attached, you can normally pull the wires forward with a sufficient amount of space to remove the old one and solder the new one in. If the wires are tight, look for a screw located on the top of the front engines chassis just back under the smoke box. This screw can be loosened a small amount and the wire will free up so the LED can be pulled forward to solder it. This screw is not easy to get to, but that is the only way to loosen the wires if they are tight in the chassis. Make sure the new diode is inserted with the proper orientation and test it before you reassemble the parts on the engine. If you choose to fix the number boards, you must use the exploded view on page 15 to find the two screws that hold the top of the boiler on the chassis. They are hidden and using the exploded view makes it simple. The wires for the grab irons at the back of the cab also hook the back of the cab to the lower portion. To fix the LED's in the number boards, add a resistor in series with the Number board LED’s wires. When the boiler top lifted off of the chassis, the two number boards are connected to the circuit card by two connections. They have a push on clip that can be removed so the resistors can be added in the wires. Both LED’s are wired together and attach on the circuit board at the same location for each leg of the LED’s. If you add a 560 Ohm resistor to each side, the light from the number boards are great looking and very realistic. You could add both to one side or go with a larger value on one side to equal at least 2 x 560 or 1120 Ohms on one side. The value can vary so you could probably use a 600 Ohm on each side and it would look good. Enjoy Let me know how it works out. Sorry, I can't help with the change of address since I use the soundtraxx sound.
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