Handlaid track with fast track system....

[Marc_Magnus]

Following my previous topic about the numerous advertissement made by fast track system in the model railroad magazines, I want to know more about them and their system, because I'm ready to buy some of their products.

Still searching about information of the fastrack system, I want to meet people who have try or seen the system.

I have just one answer in my previous topic, who say it's a good product but did anyone else have try their system ?
If you want to better know them take a look at the following web site:

www.handlaidtrack.com

See you later.

Marc, Belgium

[dinwitty]

I have handlaid track like crazy, built doubleslips. Problem is the spikes are off scale, and the track actually doesnt look right. Its great to save money but I look for ways to make the details right.
so except for special work, I will use commercial stuff.

All I use is needlenose pliers, vise, and a file and good rail cutters, of course, NMRA gauge,.
I found a plastic flex-tie strips which make ties more detailed yet its handlaid.

Note, Prototype frogs are castings, I have built turnouts different ways, and found the prototype style effective, instead of filing frog rails half angles to meet at the cross point, I use one rail and file the desired angle for the cross point, I don't even have to be exactly exact, I just file a frog form on the end of the rail and file in away from the point where I make another rail angle filed to meet.I use the one straight rail to adjust where the point has to be, it is spiked in place, I just tug it to adjust.

FastTracks point making looks like its designed to do frog half angles where 2 rails make the frog point.
I eleminated that issue.

[BR60103]

Marc:
I have seen the system at several shows (they live not far from a friend of mine).
It seems to produce a reasonable turnout. However, it seems expensive to me and I don't know that I'd make that many of a given size. But the system seems well thought out. I'd really go for the rail bender if I did more handlaying of track.
If you're laying a yard with a dozen of the same number turnout, I'd suggest ordering a jig and the other bits. You might get away without the tie strips.

[brothaslide]

QUOTE: Originally posted by dinwitty

Note, Prototype frogs are castings, I have built turnouts different ways, and found the prototype style effective, instead of filing frog rails half angles to meet at the cross point, I use one rail and file the desired angle for the cross point, I don't even have to be exactly exact, I just file a frog form on the end of the rail and file in away from the point where I make another rail angle filed to meet.I use the one straight rail to adjust where the point has to be, it is spiked in place, I just tug it to adjust.

dinwitty

Could you post a photo for this technique of making a frog? I'm interested in seeing this.

Take care,

[dinwitty]

QUOTE: Originally posted by brothaslide

QUOTE: Originally posted by dinwitty

Note, Prototype frogs are castings, I have built turnouts different ways, and found the prototype style effective, instead of filing frog rails half angles to meet at the cross point, I use one rail and file the desired angle for the cross point, I don't even have to be exactly exact, I just file a frog form on the end of the rail and file in away from the point where I make another rail angle filed to meet.I use the one straight rail to adjust where the point has to be, it is spiked in place, I just tug it to adjust.

dinwitty

Could you post a photo for this technique of making a frog? I'm interested in seeing this.

Take care,

I simply straight file the frog angle on the straight portion of the rail.
Filing it is fairly quick and it isnt perfect and doesnt need to be.
Where the filing ends on the diverging side, I file INTO the rail again,
the diverging rail is simply angle filed the frog angle and nestled against the cut in. The straight rail has a look something like a pointing arrow.
What is critical is when you lay in the rails, you lay in the straight non-diverging rail first, using the NMRA gauge on the diverging outer rail which you lay in before, you find the point where the point will sit. You spike down the straight rail and allow it to slide forward and backward to find that "point". The I solid it down with more spikes or solder it in permanent on PC ties.
The I lay in the diverging rail which is now a snap because the guesswork is done.
Its been such a tedius process using half-angle frogs. Also the tire widths of the wheels make up for errors.
I have built Double Slip Switches with this, I have a complex throat I could snap a pic of, (I am about to tear it out as I dont use it.)

[dinwitty]

You can see the angled frog on one rail, then behind is the curved rail.


Overall of the throat. This is on a module designed for the standard 2x4 portable module, its designed for a hump yard which I built and the humping worked, tho I never built any auto-sorter to change the switches.
Trains could enter the ariival/departure yards thru the slip-switchery.
There would have been a near mirror equivelent for the other end of the yard.
But never built it, the module hobby around here waned.
So its never seen serious use.

A 3 way curved turnout!
Remember, this all worked and ran!

[Anonymous]

Dinwitty,

you mentioned soldering to PC ties as well as spiking.

Which is your preferred method? I plan on handlaying some track in the futre - I've done a tiny bit of it - very rewarding!

I've been meaning to make a pro & con list for myself on spiking vs. soldering before I get laying track. But without experience with soldering using pc ties, my list will probably miss a few very important points.

That's some serious trackwork you've got there. Very cool!

[dinwitty]

Direct spiking track in place where the track is built, this track is built where it sits.
PC ties allow you to build it off the railroad and move it in place.
You just have to evaluate your needs and use the style as needed.
I used weathered rail, but its not good for soldering to, as I have to scrape the weathering off to solder.
So future work is with no weathering.
Then paint the rails.

Generally Switch turning radius is broader than snap track radius except for snap track turnouts.
A number 4 radius is broader than 18".
I use a PC tie as the throw rod.
If you want to make sure your rails don't slide around after completion, use some PC ties to hold them secure.
Understanding basic switch construction techniques allows me to build crazy track as you see.