When did Kadee #5 Couplers swtich from plastic to metal?

[Anonymous]

Just curious - it seems metal is standard now. But the last time I was into the hobby as a kid, they were plastic.

When did they make the switch. Or are they both available now?

With metal couplers, I bet I could probably pull my own body down the track if a locomotive could handle it!

[jimrice4449]

I've been MRing since the late forties and KDs have always been metal even back when they used a diamond shaped liftable ramp to actuate the pins (that were straight and perpendicular to the track). I don't know if they still make them (I never used them) but I think at one time they made a coupler were the shank was plastic and the head metal. When the patent ran out and all the clones appeared I tried about three diferent clones and all failed on 40-50 car trains. KD used to advertise "The standard by choice" during the KD/NMRA X2F wars. They had (and have) a point.

[Don Gibson]

QUOTE: - CARRfan "With metal couplers, I bet I could probably pull my own body down the track if a locomotive could handle it!"

Not quite.

The Original KD#4 coupler was metal with a metal box. The KD #5 was metal from the outset, with plastic box (for insulation) and all new centering spring design.This has 'morphed' into the 40 series.

KD's 'plastic' couplers are the 20 and 30 series, and are 'hybrid's with plasitc shank's and metal clasp's. I use the 20 series on my Genesis engine's and 30 series on most Passenger cars. For example I use #38 for ' drop in' replacement's for Wathers Budd cars (#36 for 22" radius). This provides better lateral swing, and 2 initial position height adjustment.

Plastic couplers can break when a runaway car 'whack!'s' a string of stationary car's hard enough, but so do metal couplers. KD's plastic coupler 's seem quite a bit tougher than other's.

[jfugate]

I've had several of the 30 series plastic shank couplers fail so I only use them when I absolutely have to. I can't remember the last time we've had a metal shank Kadee fail. I'm sure they have, I just don't remember exactly when it was because it's been so long.

I like the 40 series underset and overset shank, plus various shank lengths. Makes it possible to solve just about any coupler mounting problem!

[Anonymous]

I guess the older boxcar with some plastic couplers I have aren't Kadee's then. Must be a clone.

[Anonymous]

Kaydee was always metal. I have had plastic fail. I have yet to see a Kaydee fail in 30+ years.

[rogerhensley]

Kadee 5s have always been metal. The coupler box is plastic, but the coupler is metal. Don't confuse them with the old 'Horn-Hook' X2f couplers that were used on HO cars for years.

[dknelson]

There were many makes of dummy knuckle couplers that were plastic (and which could be lifted to mate with KDs) - Varney comes to mind, and their were sprung so a starting train would actually take up slack.
There was a time when certain cars with metal floors such as Roundhouse, and Athearn engines (if coupled back to back), would from time to time short out if all metal couplers were used. The newer KDs with plastic shanks would at least prevent that problem, although you don't really read about the problem much anymore.
Dave Nelson

[Leon Silverman]

The plastic couplers are needed when you run two grounded chassis locomotive (such as Athearn's Blue Box series engines back to back. The chassies in these engines see an opposite electrical polarity. When you connect them through a metal (electrically conductive) coupler, you create a short and neither runs because you should have tripped your power pack's circuit breaker.

[dazzar]

Is it safe to use metal couplers on DCC loco's?
I see some loco manufacturers have stated not to use metal couplers, as it will void warranty,but so long as the motor is isolated there should be no problems, is this correct.

[Pruitt]

Speaking of patents and "clones," I just have a philosophical problem with someone pouncing on an expired patent and making money off someone else's work without paying royalties for doing so.

I know it's legal, but I don't think it's particularly moral, and I won't pay anyone who does that. I'll stick with the original. As a bonus, the original is also the best!

[Don Gibson]

It's uninsulated metal couplers on metal frames that can cause problems. THE #5 AND 4O series 'box' isolate the coupler. There is no effect on DCC. #5's are indended for freight car's, and #46 for passenger. . These are both 'drop- in' type coupler's.

Unfortunately too many novice's use #5's on passenger cars to save pennies when that extra length will run better on their 4X8's.

[Anonymous]

I think I accidentally stirred the pot with this thread. Upon closer examination, I believe my couplers in question were in fact metal. I just always thought they were plastic. It wasn't until I had a new shiny set of couplers that I realized they were metal.