Why buy brass?

[Anonymous]

What's the attraction? Do you buy brass to collect, run, or both?

Frankie

[nfmisso]

Hi Frankie;

Me, to run. Why, because the particular model is not available in plastic or die-cast. For example, I would not buy a N&W A - except maybe the roller bearing version in brass, nor a N&W Y3/Y3a, but I have a Jawn Henry in brass.

[Anonymous]

the only reason i buy brass is to get locomotives, freight cars, or accurate cabooses that i cant get in plastic. If a locomotive type is an easy kitbash, i'll go ahead and build one in plastic, but sometimes you just have to go brass. the only 3 brass locos i own are a SP MK5000C, a SP (ex Erie) SDP45 and a UP MK1200LNG switcher. the only one of those I have seen anyone try to kitbash in plastic is the erie SDP45.

then it's nearly impossible to get accurate models of some types of cabooses in plastic, so i ended up with about 4 of those in brass.

[tatans]

The theme of this forum seems to run toward " I can't get it in plastic" How does this format justify people buying 300 brass engines and hiding them away for who knows how long, that's what I cannot comprehend. I'm glad the above at least run their locomotives, thats why they were built with motors. As we all know this is a very controversial question.

[Adelie]

Until recently, brass models were far more detailed and accurate than plastic ones. I have about 6 HO PRR steamers in a box packed away. I bought them with the intention of running them some, but mostly as display pieces. I switched to N scale a couple of years ago, so they aren't running on that! They will eventually wind up on display in the railroad area in the basement.

There is also an intrinsic thing about owning a model that was hand built (certainly not me!).

Overall, I'm not a collector for the sake of collecting, though. While I would someday like to complete the my PRR steam collection, BLI has certainly put a different spin on what might be in it. It seems to me the people who have large brass collections are probably of the collector mindset. Collecting, having something unique to pass down to the kids later in life, having something that was a limited production, some combination of all of these things is probably the answer. Some probably even see it as an investment, although that is a questionable proposition.

[IRONROOSTER]

I have two pieces of brass, both in Sn2 - a passenger car and a Forney 2-4-4, both of which I intend to run. There aren't any other passenger cars or locomotives in Sn2. This will let me get started and later on I can scratch build more passenger cars and convert some MDC HOn3 locomotives.

Enjoy
Paul

[selector]

A very interesting answer, Mark. I have wondered why some folks will work so hard to get brass, and I think you have solved it for me. They are an investment if they are "good" brass, just as "good" paintings will hold their value, or appreciate, as they become better known, more highly desired, and rare.

I would love to have a brass Garratt or a 4-8-4 Northern, but I'll have to wait for my inheritance, both for the loco, and so that I can afford to build curves that can take 'em. Know what I mean?

[davekelly]

I own one piece of brass. A Pennsy caboose that I obtained off of ebay about a year ago. Why? It's hard to say. I remember seeing cabinets full of brass engines when I was growing up, the ads on the back cover of MRR (PFM back then) and thinking how perfect they looked. After browsing ebay every now and then, I saw the caboose. Antennas. Great steps. The price was good and I bought it. When it arrived I spent hours just looking at it from all angles. When it's running at a distance will I be able to tell it apart from the Bowser models? No. But that's not what was important to me. After years and years (ok a few decades) I finally got a brass something. I love that caboose.

[twhite]

I model Rio Grande and Southern Pacific standard-gauge steam. The answer is pretty obvious--there is little to no plastic available for these railroads. So if I want a model of a Rio Grande L-131 2-8-8-2, I have to go brass. I want an SP GS-4, I can either go with a plastic Bachmann that can barely pull its tender, or a used Balboa brass that can pull the paint off of the walls. Ever seen an AC-6 cab-forward in plastic? No way. Like some of the above posts, I have plenty of brass that I've acquired over the years, and NONE of it is sitting in the closet in boxes. It's all out there on the MR earning its keep. Believe me, if BLI or P2K or Spectrum started putting out Rio Grande or SP steam--and yes, I've got the BLI AC-5 which I love-, I'd be first in line at the hobby shop. Until then, I will be haunting the consignment shelves at hobby shops and bartering at train shows for used brass. And while we're at it, let's not forget the most beautiful articulated ever built--the M-3/4 Missabe Yellowstones. Plastic? Not by a long shot. Brass? Yah, they're out there, I've found two so far and am looking for more. So brass it is, at least for now.
Tom[^]

[randybc2003]

There is one reason not listed. Brass is TOUGH. I say this after loosing (I have lost count) of tender styrups, etc. I say this after discovering my favorite Rotary Snowplow suffered damage to it's big wheel. The modern plastics seem BRITTLE to me. If this had been brass - this would never have happened. [|(]

[Virginian]

I go along exactly with what Nigel said. I bought prototypes, and I bought them to run them. As detailed/better plastic has become available, I sold off most of my brass pieces.
Hang in there twhite, I think a Yellowstone will come. Who would have ever thunk the N&W Class A would usher in a whole new era in HO steam? And, while not prototypically correct, the plastic articulated engines with both their engines pivoted look and run better to me on layout sized curves than the brass ones with just the front engine pivoted at the rear.

[Jetrock]

Because NOBODY makes a plastic Niles interurban body, or a Baldwin-Westinghouse electric, or any of a large number of trolley/electric items. I buy them with the intention of running, and if I don't run them much yet it's because I don't have overhead lines yet.

About curves: The need for super-broad curves applies to big giant brass articulateds, but for a lot of other brass items, like narrow-gauge steam or interurban equipment, curve requirements are tiny indeed: my brass Baldwin-Westinghouse takes a 12" curve without blinking and is designed for much sharper, while my Ken Kidder single-truck Birney can take a 6" curve.

[Anonymous]

Good topic:
Here's another angle - stainless steel.

IMHO there is not a better way to simulate the look of stainless steel passenger cars. Silver paint just doesn't play with the light like plated brass does. Therefore, I generally buy brass if the model contains stainless steel (in addition to the 'not available in plastic' reason.)

[Anonymous]

http://www.benchmark-models.us/N/m3-New-1-L.html

Thats why!!!

[Anonymous]

In line with a lot fo the other replies here, I buy brass so I can have heavy-as-lead locos that are highly detailed and will pull stumps out of my back yard. I happen to enjoy the durability (&@*!#$^ plastic handrails) and longevity of them as added bonuses.
Finding engines that match my preferred prototypes (small Shays, SP Yellowstones, branchline consolidations) in plastic that run well AND have decent details is a difficult proposition. My MDC shay kit will probably always be half finished because last winter I got to drive a PFM shay around a demo track and was forever spoiled. My brass SP AC-9 (Akane, 1962) has put me off of the plastic articulateds pretty much for good. The brass SP MT-3 my dad gave me (late 60s Katsumi) is making me think that my Spectrum SP MT3 (bought last fall) needs to go on eBay.

I only have 2 1/2 in my roster right now (the above 2 that run, one basketcase in progress) but I hope to increase that number in the future. Yes it costs me more money, but they look so good and pull so well and last so long....

-dave

[Anonymous]

I collect brass engines. I have a couple that I have painted and run , but the factory paints I leave in a display case ! I have bought , not so good brass on Ebay , and repainted it and sold it to fund my layout projects .

[Anonymous]

i buy brass cauz its not a pain in the ash!

[GN-Rick]

QUOTE: Originally posted by twhite

I model Rio Grande and Southern Pacific standard-gauge steam. The answer is pretty obvious--there is little to no plastic available for these railroads. So if I want a model of a Rio Grande L-131 2-8-8-2, I have to go brass. I want an SP GS-4, I can either go with a plastic Bachmann that can barely pull its tender, or a used Balboa brass that can pull the paint off of the walls. Ever seen an AC-6 cab-forward in plastic? No way. Like some of the above posts, I have plenty of brass that I've acquired over the years, and NONE of it is sitting in the closet in boxes. It's all out there on the MR earning its keep. Believe me, if BLI or P2K or Spectrum started putting out Rio Grande or SP steam--and yes, I've got the BLI AC-5 which I love-, I'd be first in line at the hobby shop. Until then, I will be haunting the consignment shelves at hobby shops and bartering at train shows for used brass. And while we're at it, let's not forget the most beautiful articulated ever built--the M-3/4 Missabe Yellowstones. Plastic? Not by a long shot. Brass? Yah, they're out there, I've found two so far and am looking for more. So brass it is, at least for now.
Tom[^]

I agree completely. Accurate Great Northern steam does not exist in plastic.
Except BLI's heavy Mike-GN O-3 class but it's not typical and there were only 9.

[Anonymous]

Although I havent the money to buy brass, I can see a big difference between a bachmann & a brass daylight.

[Anonymous]

Maybe a better question for this topic would be: if you can afford it, "Why not buy Brass?" I find the few pieces I have to be superior in every way to plastic alternatives. It comes back to the old addage: "If you need to ask the price; you really can't afford it."

[AggroJones]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mac 4884

Although I havent the money to buy brass, I can see a big difference between a bachmann & a brass daylight.

Bachmann's plus GS-4 is borderline POS. The Spectrum one hopefully will be closer to brass.

If I had money to buy brass, I'd take a Southern Pacific F-5, AC-6, and AC-12. But they'd need to handle 24" radius. And I would RUN every one of those bad boys! [^]

[ragnar]

Like GN-Rick I started collecting G.N Brass because nothing was available in Great Northen except in brass and after seeing the PFM R2 2-8-8-2 on the back cover of a 1970s MR I was hooked....had to have one.....15 years later have one and 12 other G.N steamers including a Challenger Models Class M3 2-6-8-0 and *** right their runners!
Well except the M-3 .....I run it very sparingly.....then it just sits near the roundhouse looking purty!!

[tatans]

Why buy brass??? because you can.

[twhite]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AggroJones

QUOTE: Originally posted by mac 4884

Although I havent the money to buy brass, I can see a big difference between a bachmann & a brass daylight.

Bachmann's plus GS-4 is borderline POS. The Spectrum one hopefully will be closer to brass.

If I had money to buy brass, I'd take a Southern Pacific F-5, AC-6, and AC-12. But they'd need to handle 24" radius. And I would RUN every one of those bad boys! [^]

Aggro--don't laugh, but if you ever come across any of the AKANE brass cab-forwards (AC-11-12) from the late '60's, they WILL take a 24" radius. And they probably won't cost you an arm or leg, either, if you chance on them. My Akane AC-12 and my two Akane Yellowstones will snake through without any problem. No brake-shoe castings--not that much 'super' detail, either, but they'll pull stumps out of the back yard.
Tom [:p]

[Anonymous]

The early "can" motors for Japenese Imports (Akane, Tenshodo, United, P.F.M., et al.) had some "running issues." Many modelers preferred the "open frame" Pittman, D.C. 70 and 90 motors and repowered a.s.a.p.! In fact, the comments ran something like: "How can something look so good and run so bad." However, by the late 1960's, Japenese power became "preferred" to the old Pittmans. When considering a used brass import, you may wi***o know the manufacturere's date and power scource before purchasing. Any "brass" power prior to 1965 could be "iffy." But, if the price is right and in good condition, a repower will be worth capturing a "classic." I will always have "an eye out" for brass resales whether locos or rolling stock. Happy rails.

[rockisland4309]

I totally agree with you guys. Some models you can't find in plastic. I have a SD45T-2 and SD40T-2 in brass. Until Athearn came out with their RTR SD45T-2 you couldn't get one in plastic. Same goes with cabooses I have three Rock Island bay windows in brass you couldn't get in plastic unless you kitbashed them.