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setting turnouts

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  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: NW Burbs of Chicago
  • 57 posts
setting turnouts
Posted by jaretos on Thursday, April 21, 2005 9:57 AM
Need some help. Getting ready to lay track on my layout. I am using Atlas code 83 flex with Atlas #4 turnouts. I have a latex caulk ready to glue flex, but was wondering if i can carefully use caulk to set turnouts. If not, what other way is recommended? I have put down cork roadbed on top of 2" foam, for the record. Thanks in advance!!

john
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 21, 2005 10:04 AM
I don't glue my turnouts in case I have to replace them. I spike them instead if needed.
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Crosby, Texas
  • 3,660 posts
Posted by cwclark on Thursday, April 21, 2005 10:20 AM
yes gary is right...Atlas sells a long rail spike that you can spike the turnout down with..use a punch to drive the nail spikes with so that you won't hit the rails with a hammer..place them in the small nailholes that you see in the turnout ties, but don't spike the frog..it has to float a bit for it to work properly....any glue at all on the moving parts of the turnout points and you'll have a turnout that's toast...chuck

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: San Jose, California
  • 3,154 posts
Posted by nfmisso on Thursday, April 21, 2005 12:16 PM
John;

The three tracks connected to the turnout will hold it in place fine.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: SE Minnesota
  • 6,845 posts
Posted by jrbernier on Thursday, April 21, 2005 12:52 PM
I have to disagree with this 'floating stuff'. Turnouts should be spiked down. And add spikes aroung the frog area to keep all the rails in that area level is the key to good operation. Where you want some clearance is around the points. Cut a small 'trench' around the throwbar area so it does not bind(and so grains of ballast will not cause a problem in the future). All 46 turnouts on my layout are spiked(Atlas code 100 on Homabed or cork roadbed) and I have had NO problems.

Jim Bernier

Modeling BNSF  and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Crosby, Texas
  • 3,660 posts
Posted by cwclark on Thursday, April 21, 2005 2:08 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by jrbernier

I have to disagree with this 'floating stuff'. Turnouts should be spiked down. And add spikes aroung the frog area to keep all the rails in that area level is the key to good operation. Where you want some clearance is around the points. Cut a small 'trench' around the throwbar area so it does not bind(and so grains of ballast will not cause a problem in the future). All 46 turnouts on my layout are spiked(Atlas code 100 on Homabed or cork roadbed) and I have had NO problems.

Jim Bernier


the reason i said this is because if you nail the frog down there is a chance that the rivets in the turnout where the point rails meet the closure rails will bind and the points can get out of gauge or if too tight they won't move at all on atlas turnouts...I never nail the frog down..the two holes in the frog are for screwing the brass bar in place so that a wire can be soldered to the other end under the turnout to power the frog...Chuck

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Winnipeg Canada
  • 1,637 posts
Posted by Blind Bruce on Thursday, April 21, 2005 2:10 PM
When you do spike the any rai, be very careful not to get too agressive. It is easy to throw the track out of gauge.
BBl

73

Bruce in the Peg

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: NW Burbs of Chicago
  • 57 posts
Posted by jaretos on Friday, April 22, 2005 9:13 AM
thanks for the advice. i am using track nails for the turnouts and latex caulk for everything else. started last night with no problems. i appreciate the help!

john

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