A few screws loose...seriously

[Anonymous]

In my quest to update my aging rolling stock fleet (18+ years old) I decided to upgrade most if not all of my New Haven RR hopper cars from the stock plastic wheels (which some have ceased to roll smoothly) to Atlas 70 ton metal ones. after unscrewing the stock trucks from the frame, i noticed that when i screwed the new trucks on, the stock bolts no longer had the "bite" into the threads that they previously had. my question is how can i resecure the bolts so that they hold the new heavier wheels on, will some Goo on the threads be sufficient or should i take a trip to home depot and invest in some slightly larger bolts. any help would be appreciated.

[Anonymous]

I've had that problem before now. I wouldn't advise using larger bolts as these might well split the truck pivots (or just "stretch" them so the trucks don't swivel freely). I fixed a similar problem on a Bachmann kit a while ago using CA glue - just pour a little into the hole, leave to set, then redrill - the CA will take a thread and should work well. Hope this helps!

[ben10ben]

I would definitely loctite. Get the blue kind, as it can pretty easily be removed in the future. Should you need to remove the trucks sometime in the future, red or green would probably destroy the car before it would allow removal of the screw.

[dave9999]

Drill the hole a little larger, glue in a piece of styrene round stock. Cut it off flush and let
the glue dry.
Then drill the correct size hole. Then you can replace the screw in the new hole. Good luck, Dave

Opps,
Correction: Let the glue dry, THEN cut it off flush.

[Anonymous]

I was going to recommend the round styrene rod glued into the hole as well. But instead of re-drilling for a screw, I would recommend drilling for a truck mount similar to those found on (at least on the older cars) Accurail cars. The cars I have utilize a plastic rod with a ledge to hold the truck in place that simply presses into a hole in the bolster. The mounting pins are easy to manufacture and can be used to convert other cars that have been similarly damaged. I understand this ain't everyone's cup of tea, but it works for me.

Tom

[bogp40]

QUOTE: Originally posted by dave9999

Drill the hole a little larger, glue in a piece of styrene round stock. Cut it off flush and let
the glue dry.
Then drill the correct size hole. Then you can replace the screw in the new hole. Good luck, Dave

Opps,
Correction: Let the glue dry, THEN cut it off flush.

And not to damage the now repaired bolster, drill an tap w/ a 2-56. This is the most commom size used for coupler and truck mounting. If you don't already have the Kadee #246 tap and drill set, I would recommend purchashing one. Very valuable set with many uses. Kit comes with a 2-56 tap, #50 tap drill and a #43 clearance drill. Pick up some Kadee delrin screws while your at it, they're great for cutting for that perfect length of screw instead ofdrilling and tapping deeper.
Bob K.

[Virginian]

You probably have plastic in the threads of the screws you removed. DON'T clean it out. Put a little Testors on the screw and turn it in. It will be plenty good to hold, and you can remove it when you want to.

[Anonymous]

Where would the best place be to pick up some round styrene rod, I don't believe 2/56 is a common dimension. Thanks.

[cwclark]

here is my webshot gallery with pictures and a discription on mounting new bolster holes and the trucks with 2-56 screws...click the next button to see the pictures with explanations in a step - by -step sequence..I have to special order 2-56 screws from ACE hardware and you can also order the " KADEE 2-56 Drill and Tap Set " ...you'll also need a pin vise..don't try to get them from Lowe's or Home Depot..they'll just look at you funny when you say "2-56"...also, some small owner / operated hardware stores can carry them and some LHS's will carry them...hope this helps...chuck
http://community.webshots.com/photo/137793353/300555227CpifsB

[davekelly]

Viper,

2/56 is an industry standard for screws, not 2 56ths of an inch. I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that 2 is the size of the screw (diameter) and 56 is the number of threads per inch.

[nedthomas]

You can drill a new hole (1/8 inch) and insert 1/8 Evergreen tubing in the hole. After the cement dries you can use 1/4 #2 self taping screws the mount the trucks. The 1/8 tubing will except the screws with no additional driling.

[cwclark]

QUOTE: Originally posted by nedthomas

You can drill a new hole (1/8 inch) and insert 1/8 Evergreen tubing in the hole. After the cement dries you can use 1/4 #2 self taping screws the mount the trucks. The 1/8 tubing will except the screws with no additional driling.

some bolster holes are a lot larger than 1/8" ..you'll have to drill out a hole 3/8" in diameter, insert a 3/8" tubing and then a 1/8" tubing inside of the 3/8" for it to work....Chuck

[tstage]

Viper,

Here's a trick I learned from one of the guys at my LHS. Find some old sprue (from a kit) that will just fit into the mounting hole. Cut off a small stub deeper than your hole, glue it into the hole with CA, let it dry, file the stub down so that it is flush with the mount, then redrill the hole for a 2-56 screw (#50). Works great! (Sprue is usually slight hollow so it will give you an automatic center to your hole.)

I ALWAYS save my sprue material from my kits for just an application like this.

Tom

[bogp40]

Kadee coupler sprues are delrin, these sprues are great after tapping- the delrin will never strip out.