Proto 2k Alco S1 poor starting

[breezer]

Howdy, Just purchased my 1st Proto 2000 locomotive, an Alco S1 (HO) scale. Very nice detail but I'm concerned on the amount of power it takes just move. I run a DC system and I have to turn my power pack to 1/2 or more just to get it to move. I checked voltage at track and it is about 6 VDC just where it starts to move. I have checked and applied lube but this does not help. Is this normal for this small engine or is there any suggestions what I should look for to improve performance. Thanks for any input! Thanks, Breezer

[rrinker]

Does it move slowly at that setting, or does it lurch? If it moves slowly, then that's about right. I never measured the starting voltage on mine, but it ran great on DC, even better now on DCC. There is a 4-diode voltage drop with the screwy light boards Life-Like uses in the P2K locos, so there's 2.4 volts right there. If it lurches into action at a relatively fast speed at 6v, it could be that there is either too much or not enough lube on the gears. Or something is binding - try turning the motor by hand and see if it move smoothly.

--Randy

[breezer]

Randy, The locomotive runs real smooth but a fairly low top speed. I guess I'm just used to to my older atheans, bachmanns and proto 1000. In reality, for a switcher engine it probably is correct. I have a question, you said there is a 2.4 volt drop from the dcc diodes? Is this something I can bypass to drop the starting voltage? I have never had a dcc system yet so I'm not familiar with the little circuit boards. I'm just not ready to convert to dcc yet. Thanks, Breezer

[SpaceMouse]

My daughter nicknamed mine 'Speedy.'

I'll give you $15 right now. Mine is my favorite engine.

[breezer]

Mine is in Western Pacific colors ( silver and orange). I thought the paint scheme looked neat . I have no dedicated company or line. My son and I just like to have fun with this hobby and we are building as we go. Breezer

[selector]

Breezer, my P2K 0-6-0 steamer is the same; it requires cranking right up to about 40% of the dial before it begins to move in analog. I think this might be the wiring, maybe in prep for DCC ops since they are all DCC ready. Although, my 0-6-0 seems to clip right along if I continue to turn the dial.

[rrinker]

QUOTE: Originally posted by breezer

Randy, The locomotive runs real smooth but a fairly low top speed. I guess I'm just used to to my older atheans, bachmanns and proto 1000. In reality, for a switcher engine it probably is correct. I have a question, you said there is a 2.4 volt drop from the dcc diodes? Is this something I can bypass to drop the starting voltage? I have never had a dcc system yet so I'm not familiar with the little circuit boards. I'm just not ready to convert to dcc yet. Thanks, Breezer

If you bypass the diodes and operate on DC, you'll loose the directional constant lighting. If you install a DCC decoder, that will bypass the diodes, because the decoder supplies the directional light output. In either case, the bulbs need to be replaced, the stock bulbs are low voltage and will instantly blow out if exposed to full track voltage.
If you do end up going to DCC, note that this loco needs al ittle extra work, as the motor is not properly isolated. Nothing complicated, but the loco is NOT truly "DCC Ready" out of the box.

--Randy

[BRAKIE]

Breezer,That's common in all P2K locomotives..Slow to start and slow speed.
One simple solution would be to remove the diodes and hard wire the drive..You can add headlights.
.

[tstage]

Breezer,

On DC, my S1 started moving at about 40%, too. It's a switcher. In real life, it isn't supposed go very fast. If you crank the power up to 100%, does your switcher move along at a pretty good pace?

Tom

[breezer]

Tom, When I go to 100%, my S1 moves fairly decent but I really don't know how to describe what it would be in real life. I just moved it to it's own portion of my layout and a dedicated power pack and it's acceptable. Later on I plan on adding a seperate yard for my son to play moving stock around with this engine. Some day, I will go DCC and then it will not be a big deal. One thing I'm not happy with is the front light does not come thru the reflector no matter where I place the bulb. All for now, Breezer

[tstage]

Breezer,

The headlight is something that you can take care of when you convert it over to DCC. Replacing the dismal 1.5v bulb for an 3mm LED will improve that lighting by magnatudes.

I can literally light up the back wall of my layout with the LED I installed in my S1. And it wasn't that bad of an installation. I replaced it when I installed my decoder. Randy's right. You'll have to isolate the motor from the frame before installing the decoder. Randy even has a handy "how to" (with pics) on his web page. Be sure to give a holler when you get to that point.

Tom