Login
or
Register
Subscriber & Member Login
Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!
Login
Register
Home
»
Model Railroader
»
Forums
»
General Discussion (Model Railroader)
»
molding plastic buildings
molding plastic buildings
907 views
5 replies
Order Ascending
Order Descending
Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
molding plastic buildings
Posted by
Anonymous
on Sunday, March 20, 2005 2:52 AM
I was about to glue a plastic model kit together (after preparing the pieces, ie.sanding the egdes) and I wondered how I was going to cover or fill in those ugly gaps between the pieces of plastic. Any wize words from you folks.
Thanks Hal [:)]
Reply
Edit
FJ and G
Member since
August 2003
6,434 posts
Posted by
FJ and G
on Sunday, March 20, 2005 6:07 AM
Take the sprus, make shavings from them, put in a cap w/glue, mix well into a paste, insert
Reply
timthechef
Member since
February 2002
From: Brunswick MD
345 posts
Posted by
timthechef
on Sunday, March 20, 2005 6:12 AM
I use white putty from Suadron products. It dries fast and sands smooth. You can get it at your LHS.
Life's too short to eat bad cake
Reply
bogp40
Member since
July 2004
From: Weymouth, Ma.
5,199 posts
Posted by
bogp40
on Sunday, March 20, 2005 6:19 AM
In any quality kit, if the pieces are sanded for proper fit, you shouldn't have any major gaps to fill. I don't know how particular your trying to be, but paint and weathering will usually take care or most seams. If kit bashing and trying to hide obvious splices, then some filling/ blending may be needed. The Walthers kits can be troublsome, even following the directions, many times pieces end up w/ a bad fit. I improvise and dry fit many steps ahead to eliminate trouble spots.
Bob K.
Modeling B&O- Chessie
Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Reply
CNJ831
Member since
April 2001
From: US
3,150 posts
Posted by
CNJ831
on Sunday, March 20, 2005 8:29 AM
As Bob K relates, most plastic structure kits today are of a quality that very little sanding or adjustment is necessary to get a very good fit. Large gaps at corners or between pieces are more likely caused by not being careful and exacting enough in assembly. In the case of significant assembly errors, the resulting gaps can be difficult to hide.
In gluing plastic parts make sure any flash, nubs, or minor irregulaties are totally removed. Check especially for any warping of parts and be sure to straighten them before assembly. When the joint is made, be sure they are squared up exactly and clamp the pieces tightly in some fashion until the bond fully sets up.
Following the advice above should leave you with, at worst, a few fairly small, fine gaps. These may be filled with Zap-a-Gap CA applied to the crack with the edge of a small needle or a pin. Once dry and painted, no evidence of any gap will be visible.
CNJ831
Reply
Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Sunday, March 20, 2005 12:53 PM
Thanks for your replies guys. I appreciate all the advice. It's a DPM kit and some of the spurs where really big - hard to sand totaly flat because the plastic wasn't as soft as some kits I've used.
Thanks again. Hal [:D][:D]
Reply
Edit
Subscriber & Member Login
Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!
Login
Register
Users Online
Erik_Mag
see all »
Search the Community
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter
See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter
and get model railroad news in your inbox!
Sign up