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Inexpensive DCC Packages?
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I've read the responses with great interest and thought I'd add my 2 cents worth. I am running an HO 4x8 with 2 mainline ovals, a branch line oval, reversing section, factory sidings and engine service sidings. All soldered Atlas sectional track (OK, a couple very short sections of flex) and 16 switches. All tracks are inter-connected so any train can go anywhere and turn around. (Except the Big Boy, inner oval is too tight 15" radius) <br /> <br />I am running an MRC Command 2000 (dinosaur) with a Digitrax 3 amp power pack. I am able to consistantly run 10 powered engines (one without a decoder) at a time, with 3 lighted passenger cars, and 3 or 4 (depending on how many are on the layout at the time) lighted cabooses. Currently I am using only 6 of the 10 available addresses including address 01 for the non decoder equipped F7. <br /> <br />The engines are a Rivarossi Challenger, Trix Big Boy, IHC Light Mountain, Kato F7 and 6 Athearn F7's. My outer mainline has a steep 4% grade, so a lot of double and triple heading is required. <br /> <br />I have never had any power issue whatsoever. My Atlas snap-switches are not DCC, are all electrically operated off the same power pack. When I want to program a new loco or reprogram one to run in the opposite direction, I just pull the rest off the track and program on the mainline. (Space is very limited) <br /> <br />Anyhow, I've had this system over 2 years and have not had a problem that I did not cause myself (running into open switches, etc.). If you aren't into sound or complicated systems, check out Ebay. They have brand new Command 2000 systems with power packs and sometimes a decoder or loco for as low a $25. I also got a walkaround throttle for $15 brand new on Ebay. <br /> <br />(I use the MRC power pack that came with my other Command 2000 for my N layout so I can switch to 12 volt instead of 16 so it doesn't overheat the Kato passenger car lighting) <br /> <br />
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