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Dealers vs. hobbyists, who's right on this one?

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  • Member since
    June 2002
  • 16 posts
Dealers vs. hobbyists, who's right on this one?
Posted by athaprime on Tuesday, July 2, 2002 10:45 PM
I am very much interested in purchasing a power pack for my layout which is cab control consisting of 11 blocks and 10 remote switches. Specifically, I am looking at MRC's Tech 4 280 dualpower power pack with total output of 16VA. According to MRC this power pack should run up to 4 trains - no problems. A dealer told me and I quote "280 dual is a good N scale pack but under amp for HO. the 280 splits the power between both controls, 1 .5 amp. Two singles will give you twice as much power for $15.00 more.3 amps" Needless to say I told him that according the manufacturer this power pack was more than adequate for what I wanted to do and recommended for HO scale, he replied "Many Ho Trains draw up to 3/4 amps when you start out. (Most modern 12 wheel drive engines). If your going to use more than one diesel engine on each control you will overload the powerpack. Purchase packs any place you choose. But you will not be satisfied with a 280." So, who's right? Check out MRC's site at http://www.modelrec.com or look up the Tech 4 280 in the Walthers catalogue, I don't see what's the matter with it? Is the dealer just trying to sell me more than what I need?????? THanks for your advice.

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    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 3, 2002 4:36 AM
I ran an experiment with my MRC Power Command 9500 that has ammeter-voltmeter built in.
I ran three Lifelikes E7's that require more draw than the Atlas or Kato.
Starting out at full throttle, yes these three will
immediately draw two plus amps and decrease down to 1.25
One E7 starting out at full throttle, almost 3/4 to 7/8 amp but what train starts out at full speed.
My Kato-9 at full throttle starting out is 3/4 but
settles immediately down to .30
  • Member since
    October 2001
  • From: OH
  • 17,574 posts
Posted by BRAKIE on Wednesday, July 3, 2002 8:24 AM
I believe the MRC 280 will work for you.Before going DCC I used the TechII 1400 power packs and had no problems.I could run up to 6 MU'd Athearn locos on these 1400s.I know the Tech4s is much better then the old Tech IIs.

Have you thought of getting DCC instead of a power pack? What you will pay for a real good power pack you can buy a DCC starter set for and will have power to spare.DCC is very user friendly and installing decoders in most locomotives is very easy to do.

Larry

Conductor.

Summerset Ry.


"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt  Safety First!"

  • Member since
    June 2001
  • From: Anderson Indiana
  • 1,301 posts
Posted by rogerhensley on Wednesday, July 3, 2002 9:42 AM
I don't believe that your dealer is trying to lead you wrong. If you are running all modern production diesels, you can use the 280. But if you are also running accessories like lights and tuenout controls and some older equipment, I would go with two packs.

Years back, I had a train shop and can verify that the dual packs are good for some applications, but if you get into needing power, they do essentially divide their power to both controls. In other words, you have one power source suppling two throttles. MRC isn't wrong either. It is a matter of your needs.

Roger

Roger Hensley
= ECI Railroad - http://madisonrails.railfan.net/eci/eci_new.html =
= Railroads of Madison County - http://madisonrails.railfan.net/

  • Member since
    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 3, 2002 7:09 PM
I'd like to second Larry's comments about DCC. If you use conventional DC, by the time you add in the costs of the really good power packs, switches, etc. you will find that the cost is comparabel to DCC. DCC is a lot more fun to run.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 4, 2002 9:05 AM
I think you will be happier with two packs. In addition to eliminating the question of overload you state, it gives you more flexibility around the layout when you have visitors. It would also give you more accessory power. I know some are very bugget sensitive, but for me $15 bucks would not stop me from going to the next level of performance whether it was a power pack or an engine. I don't think the hobby guy was leading you on. - Ed
  • Member since
    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 4, 2002 3:19 PM
hello,
something scare me:16VA only!!
that's make 1,6 Amps at 10 volts.good enough for 3 locs of 400 m amps draw each.
anyway,a good tip is to look after this value;the VA output delivery.the higher it is,the maximum loc you can drive with the same throtle.
by also a small Ampmeter and measure your locs without and with pulling load.that will give you a good idear of how much VA delivery you need.
after all,you can make your decision on what to buy.
all the best,
nicolas
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, July 7, 2002 1:14 PM
I agree with Ed, two seperate power pack would be easier as far as operaters are concerned. Two would ba able to be seperated to different sides of the layout, like different districts on the real RRs. Two would also give two sources of accessory power. Mike Dickinson
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, July 15, 2002 8:03 PM
I DONT THINK THE HOBBY SHOP WAS MISLEADING YOU. HE WAS PROBABLY TRYING TO MAKE SURE YOU WERE NOT UNDERPOWERED. ALMOST ALWAYS AS YOUR LAYOUT GROWS YOU WILL REQUIRE MORE POWER. DCC IS AN ALTERNATIVE BUT MORE COSTLY DOWN THE ROAD. HOWEVER DCC WILL ENABLE YOU TO RUN MULTIPLE UNITS WITHOUT WORRYING ABOUT BLOCKS. GOOD LUCK!
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 17, 2002 9:32 AM
I would always be suspicious of MRC's claims. It is better to check with people who know. MRC made power packs which it claimed would handle any O Gauge train out there. In fact, it did not do well with PS1-equipped locomotives. Nonetheless, MRC kept making its claims. They lost a lot of O Gauge business with that. What they do for O they probably do for N and HO as well. Manufacturer claims should be taken with a grain of salt.

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