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HO Locomotive Maintenance and Repair Books
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<p>[quote user="BMMECNYC"]</p> <p>DCC Projects and Applications Vol 1-2:</p> <p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/DCC-Projects-Applications-Mike-Polsgrove/dp/0890247749">https://www.amazon.com/DCC-Projects-Applications-Mike-Polsgrove/dp/0890247749</a></p> <p>Vol 3</p> <p><a href="https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/product/book/12486">https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/product/book/12486</a></p> <p> </p> <p>DCC guide:</p> <p><a href="https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/product/book/12488">https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/product/book/12488</a></p> <p> </p> <div style="clear:both;"> </div> <p>[/quote]</p> <p>These books give you the basics of how DCC works (last one is pretty good for that). Same concepts apply for DC.. </p> <p>You will need a good multivolt meter, I prefer ones that give you an audible "beep" when you have it set to continunity (ohms) and touch the probes together. </p> <p>A familiarity with how electricity works is good to have, as well as decent basic mechanical skills. </p> <p>BLI and MTH use proprietary decoders with their own connection methods. Decoder manufacturers make 8, 9 or 21 pin decoders, or direct board replacements or hardwire decoders (which can either be a decoder with a harness or a decoder with wires mounted directly to the board).</p> <p>Each manufacturer is slightly different (read the instructions, either included or online).</p> <p>Athearn typically includes an exploded parts diagram or two with their locomotives, as do several other manufacturers. (Athearn Gensis comes with a 20ish page booklet). </p> <p>The basic mechanical concepts are all the same. Parts are held together with plastic clips or screws. Typically access to the inside of a model can be had by removing the coupler boxes, and sometimes other screws. If you cant figure it out, ask the internet about how to get inside the locomotive. Some Atlas locomotives are especially tricky (GP40-2).</p> <p> Don't over lubricate (I am convinced that some manufacturers dont get this concept...), grease or oil should not be dripping or oozing out of your model... I cant count how many times Ive disassembled a new in box locomotive to remove excess lubricant (it all comes off and gets replaced with Labelle products as appropriate). </p> <p>Dont force things....If you find yourself forcing things, chances are you might be doing it wrong (unless it was designed that way).. again the internet knows.</p> <p>Opinion part...</p> <p>Contributing reasons why there is no comprehensive book out there for maintenance is </p> <p>1) the variety of internal configurations</p> <p>2) proprietary wiring</p> <p>3) most manufacturers (not all) have in house service people and they would prefer that if you are going to send something in, that you haven't already broken it more</p> <p>4) fewer and fewer DIY people in the hobby, more RTR types and of those DIY types, many would just look on the internet instead of buying a book. </p> <p> </p>
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