designing a model train room

[Anonymous]

I may have the opportunity to have a train room in a new house to be built in a couple years. What should I include in the building plans? Best floor covering? ceiling? walls? lighting? electric outlets? The room size could be from 10x15 to 15x20.
Any suggestions/ideas for having the perfect dream train room would be appreciated.

[Anonymous]

We just completed an addition to our house that included, among other things as 22' x 23' room that will house my new layout. I I have wall recepticals every 8 ft. and two floor recepticals near the center of the room. I installed twelve can lights and have provisions to install track lighting where needed. I have added a wet bar in the corner of the room that includes a sink and refrigerator. The floor was carpeted with a commercial grade (i.e. durable low pile carpet). The doors to the room are pocket doors so that no space is wasted by having the doors open into the room. I prewired stereo speakers into the ceiling and have a cable TV and phone outlet in the room as well. I have started bechwork and I am delighted at how livable the room is.

[Anonymous]

That's not just a layout room, it's my dream room for anything a guy could want!!!

[cmrproducts]

I have had that opportunity 2 years ago and one thing that I had the contractor add an extra row of blocks so I could add a drop ceiling and keep the plumbing up above the ceiling as much as possible. I also deleted all of the small basement windows ( the basement is all underground so I had the basement steps come down from the garage. The house is a double wide 28x76 so I now have nothing in the basement except the postd and an exit at the rear of the room.

The wiring I installed and put the outlets 4 to a box and about every 10 to 12 feet. The lights are set up on 8 switches to only light the area I am in at the time (saving electricity). I drywallte and foam insulated the walls, the ceiling is already insulated. I have about 50, 4 tube & 2 tube flourescent lights throughout the basement.

The floor will have rug inthe isleways eventually. The benchwork is up and have over 2300ft of HO track down so far. The scenery is just beginning. Have had many operation sessions using Digitrax Radio DCC.

This layout is one fun thing to operate.

BOB H Clarion, PA

[BR60103]

Ceiling? definitely. The solider the better, but suspended is probably adequate. (I'm picturing a basement--anywhere else would already have something.) You'll need something there to hang your lights from.
Floor covering? In the basement, a rug to keep your feet warm. It also cushions your catastrophic derailments a bit. On the other hand, tiny bits WILL disappear in it. Suggested test: drop a Kadee coupler spring on the carpet and see if the salesman can find it. Shag carpets definitely OUT.
Lots of lights. Lots of outlets. Have access to the outlets -- plan your bechwork to leave them clear. Switches for all the outlets. Have one light plugged into the circuit that the layout is plugged into to warn you that it's still live. Other than that, separate circuits for layout, lights and "other" e.g. power tools, vaccuum cleaner, TV sets... Colour code the outlets?
Can you arrange to have the access in the middle of the room? This lets you use all the walls with no duckunders. (works best in attic or basement.) That's assuming that you will have a big circular track plan.
--David

[Anonymous]

To Bob H. in Clarion, PA

I would like to chat with you. Will you contact me? My email address is: [e-mail]

Thanks so much.

[Anonymous]

We recently remodeled an existing portion of the basement as a train room. The above advice on lighting, ceiling, and electrical is good, you may consider the following:
1. Adding shelf/layout supports before finishing the drywall.
2., room to eliminate allow onshing rpp

[Anonymous]

You're right. I've been dreaming about a room like this for over twenty years. My wife notices how much time spend there w/ my sons and fellow model railroadrers.

By the way, I forgot to mention that I had to agree to a kitchen remodel to get the boss to go along with it. We don't have basements in California and I found it was too difficult to operate DCC dependably in my garage. We spent two years planing our home addition which also added a couple of bedroom and a bathroom. The crazy part is that with interest rates wqhere they are today, my monthly payment didn't change much.

[Anonymous]

We recently remodeled an existing portion of the basement as a train room. The above advice on lighting, ceiling, and electrical is good, you may also consider the following:
1. Adding shelf/layout supports before finishing the drywall.
2. Cove your corners and have center access.
3. Add hydronic heat in the floor and good carpet and pad.
4. Add peninsula supports or center aisles before finish carpentry and drywall.
5. Garner a corner outside the room for your helix (or two).
6. Leave room for a comfortable workbench and storage/staging tracks.
7. Allow for the separation of room and layout lighting.

Hope this helps. Have fun and good luck!

[Anonymous]

What I want to know is;
Does the track get used as much as the "Wet Bar"? Good for you, John

[dknelson]

Where do the waitresses from Hooters sit?

[dknelson]

A few years ago an article in MR or maybe the NMRA bulletin -- guy was remodeling and included benchwork in the contruction order -- that means the borrowed money to pay for it was tax deductible! Hats off gentlemen, a genius!
Speaking as someone who is 6'8" tall the one thing I'd change (but cannot) about my basement is the headroom from the ductwork.
Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

THANK YOU all for the suggestions. Keep them coming, as I still have plenty of planning time left. I hope to avoid using a basement, unless it can have a large groundlevel door to the outside. I've had enough of trying to bring 4x8 sheets down narrow stairs.
Your ideas are great and I really appreciate them. Pocket doors! I wouldn't have thought of that. Space outside the room for helixes- great idea, but that may require better negotiating skills than I have.
How about lighting? Flourescents are cheaper, but cannot be dimmed . Would a combination of tubes & bulbs be best?
Thanks again.

[Anonymous]

Since I haven't laid any track yet, the answer is no. The wet bar doubles as a sink for my modelling projects. But it is pretty convenient to have soft drink or brewsky handy in the train room.

[Anonymous]

Since I haven't laid any track yet, the answer is no. The wet bar doubles as a sink for my modelling projects. But it is pretty convenient to have soft drink or brewsky handy in the train room.

[Anonymous]

I don't think that would go over to well with the wife. But then again, I could add an HO scale Hooters to my layout. Maybe Walthers could come out with a Hotters as part of their next Cornerstone series.

[Anonymous]

Not only is the interest deductible, but the loan can be repaid over 30 years.

[Anonymous]

I've had a lot of fun with this thread, as you can see from my numerous posts. With respect tot you question about lighting. I discussed this issue at length with numerous people at the NMRA convention in San Jose in 2000. I decided that, for my purposes, incandescent lights w/ dimmer switches was the way to go. Th principal disadvantage is higher electrical usage and heat generated by the bulbs. If you go w/ flourescent lights, be sure to get the tubular light covers to block out the UV light or else your scenery will discolor over time. I would be interested in hearing the responses of others on the topic of lighting.

[Anonymous]

First, make the layout room as big as you can. It doesn't take a lot of railroad to fill a 10' by 15' room. Mine is 13 1/2' by 15 1/2' and I'm looking to expand into an adjacent room. It would have been a lot easier to make it bigger in the first place, but I thought at the time that it would be plenty big enough.
I like suspended ceiling with flourescent lights set into the ceiling. They are cooler than incandescent lights and you can get daylight corrected tubes for them. Use lots of lights. It helps to have a pretty good idea of your trackplan at this stage so you can place the fixtures where you will need them, both for working on the railroad, and for atmosphere when you are operating it.
I'd figure on electrical outlets no more than 8' apart on each wall, and at least 2 on each wall. Also if possible, mount your light switches high enough or low enough to be out of the way of the scenery. I just moved one because it was almost exactly where a track needed to go through the wall to a staging yard. No big deal, but I wanted to build a yard, not move a light switch. Give some thought to which lights you want to turn on and off together, and then wire them accordingly.
Low pile commercial carpet is a lot easier to stand on and kneel on than concrete or tile. It also looks good and is easy to keep clean. Your feet and knees will thank you for it eventually.
Hope this helps, and have fun

[dknelson]

something else about fluorescent lights (which I use because my house does not have A/C) -- the also discolor the dust jackets on books. I have some old and rare books worth major dollars that are probably diminished in value as a result

[Anonymous]

You raised a really good point about the light switches. I had pocket doors installed, so installing the light switches on the wall next to the door was impossible. The solution was to build a pony wall (i.e. a wall about 40" high) that sticks out perpendicular to the room wall next to the door. I installed a bank of six light switches and a ceiling fan switch on that wall.

[Anonymous]

I've used Ott Light flourescent tubes for quite a while. They simulate natural daylight very well, and I haven't noticed any scenery fading. They are more expensive than regular tubes, but they are good for about a zillion hours.

[Anonymous]

Definately have a long talk with your plumbing contractor and preferably use one that does service work and line cleaning as part of their normal business. Explain to them what your intentions are and ask them to make every effort to provide clean-outs in locations that will provide easy access to clear clogs without damaging the layout from either water, plumber, or sewer cleaning equipment. By using a plumbing company that regularly does service work they should be thinking that way to begin with. I've worked in enough houses where it's obvious that the plumbing company just did installs, because access was difficult to impossible.

[Anonymous]

sigh, man this thread sure makes me jealous--sux to be the poorest guy in the hobby[:(]

[Anonymous]

I did something a little different in regard to lighting in my basement train room,
I did not hardwire my lighting. I mounted Outlet boxes on the floor joists and all
my lights plug into these outlets. It gives me great flexibility to change fixtures or
change from flourescents to incandescents as I desire. The cost of doing this is
slightly higher, but well worth it to me.

[Anonymous]

If you still are planning, avoid basement level if at all possible economicly and diplomaticly.
The guys/gals saying max the space are right.

What an adventure! I'm just starting to plan a layout stealing largely from Melvyn Wolf's Leadville & Mid-Atlantic (MR 6-03) It's Huge, 30x40 ft and you'll notice one entire leg is "undeveloped".

[Anonymous]

Hi people,
I'm an Aussie, so I hope you don't mind me sticking my nose into this one.

I have built a 14' x 30' steel framed outbuilding (we call 'em sheds) that has been wired, lined , lighted and carpeted. One bay 14' x 10' is separarted by a wall of bookshelves for my 25 years of model Railroaders, prototype info, and Australian Model Railway Magazines, my computer and accesories, work bench etc. The rest contain the benchwork for a mushroom style layout in N Scale based on the line from Adelaide (capital city of South Australia) to Morgan, an old river port that had its heyday in the early 20th century, with a branch line to the famous winery area of the Barossa Valley. The layout is based on the mid 1950's and so incorporates both steam and diesel power, a lot of 4 wheel open wagons and Goods Vans (10' wheel based box cars) carrying dried fruit, bales of wool, firewood and livestock, and of course barrels and cases of wine. I had a bit of trouble getting my helix in, it goes both up (to the Barossa) and down (to Adelaide and the rest of the world). It is 18" radius on a 3% lift over 6 levels with only 3" between them. I strarted laying track on it yesterday - what a todo that was!

In regards to joinery, I have relied on 7mm plywood and 2 x 1 clear pine for frames and 2 x 2 clear pine legs. It is not modular or mobile but is dismantlable if the worst happens and I need to move. I have attached the upper level to the cieling by screwing battons to the rafters, and have suspended Masonite (Hardboard) from it. The upper level is screwed directly to the Masonite which is not framed nor has any other stiffening. My timberwork is nowhere as heavy as some seen in MR on similar designs.

[Anonymous]

We call them sheds too. Since you brought it up, I like the idea of a trailer for a train room. I know I could buy an old rental storage trailer. Then have my mechanic pull it with hi 5th wheel hitch on the tow truck. Then just hide the wheels and make the outside look like a box car.

While your building the room consider maybe an air filter system to keep the dust down.