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Do not glue coupler boxes shut.  Use a mechanical fastner of some sort (a screw is generally prefered).   Check commercial turnouts with the NMRA guage, verify that they meet the specs for turnouts (spoiler alert, sometimes they don't, and its super frustrating to find later).  I found this video to be useful in understanding the NMRA track standards.  It is a four part video series.  This is part 1 <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBdWvMHEN8s">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBdWvMHEN8s</a> Get a NMRA standards guage.   Google "TOMA - the one module approach". Pick up a copy of John Armstrong's Track Planning for Realistic Operation, which should be available in well stocked local hobby shops or from our hosts here at Kalmbach.   Learn the difference between live and dead frogs, and the advantages and disadvantages of both. All new run trains and most older equipment will run just fine on code 83 track (assuming HO).  Only large "pizza cutter" flanges require code 100 track.  IMO code 83 track looks more realistic than code 100 (code 100 ties are about 3 scale inches over size in width, it is noticeable when you place two types side by side.   I started out with code 100 because of the misconception that I would want to run trains without having to do any modifications.  I have yet to purchase a locomotive that needs code 100 track to operate (they are getting pretty hard to find). The Kadee coupler height guage is a pretty useful tool (I gave mine away to someone who uses Kadee's).
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