Hi Crew!
I'm getting messages from modelers repainting / metalizing passenger cars who are having issues removing roofs from Mainline, Con Cor, and the older Walthers Proto models. The facet that alarms me is that attempts to remove the roofs were either done with an Exacto Knife or a Metal Flat-blade screw driver. Respectfully, I would say: "PLEASE DON'T!"
Here's a damaged car by one modeler. Looks like an older 85ft Concor:.
Yes, it is frustrating when your unit is 10 or 20 years old and the roof is coming off for the first time. The "Twist Method", which is recommended for the Walthers Proto Cars, also works in most cases for the Walthers Mainline cars and the 1980's-90's production Con Cor streamliners, as well.
When encountering a stubborn roof, in addition to the twist method, I also use a "Plastic" wedge tool to very slowly and gently push up the edges of the roof. With the twist method, even a stubborn roof will "give a little" and form a small gap. These tools, when used carefully, will not mar or ripple the roof edges. If using a plastic chisel, don't strike it. Just gently rock it in a "see-saw" manner between the roof's edge and the top of the wall. It may take a while but it will move, even if it's 1/2 millimeter at a time.
Cool factor is that the tools are available on Amazon in various shapes for various uses. If you don't have a flat plastic wedge or chisel of some type, just go to Amazon and type: "Plastic Wedge" or "Plastic Chisel"
I hope this helps.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Several months ago, I purchased a dozen Walthers Mainline unlettered silver colored coaches. I used the twist method successfully except for one car that cracked in four places and had to be replaced as I prepared to spray paint and decal the coaches. It is a very poor design.I will look into your suggestion for future use.
Thanks for the tip.
Rich
Alton Junction
I have found that the twist method does not work very well on cars with many interior partitions such as pullmans. The partitions make the car more rigid and hard to twist.
Walthers cars include a diagram showing where the tabs are located. Pushing straight in at those locations without twisting your wedge will usually release the tabs.
Mark
Good point Mark, I did that on one of my Walthers PS sleepers.
My refererence is primarily the cars that have the one-piece window glazing on each side, supported by the roof: Concor and Walthers Mainline lightweight passenger cars. I should have mentioned the "Modified Twist Method" which I and several modelers found to be effective for these cars. I shared it years back on this thread.
https://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/249188/2780928.aspx
mvlandsw I have found that the twist method does not work very well on cars with many interior partitions such as pullmans. The partitions make the car more rigid and hard to twist. Walthers cars include a diagram showing where the tabs are located. Pushing straight in at those locations without twisting your wedge will usually release the tabs. Mark