I have 2 gages. The upper left of the MARK IV is a "NO-GO" section that is not on my MARK III. What does that measure? On the MARK III top is 3 prongs that don't appear on the MARK IV. They both say "FLANGEWAYS". Why 3 on one and 2 on the other? Bought these both used, so no paperwork.
You may (or may not) find some answers here:
https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/rp-2_track_gauges2024.pdf
Google 'NMRA gage (guage)'. Those exact search words will take you to the "other forum" which will tell you more than you want to know, but in the process it will tell you what you need to know.
Rich
Alton Junction
Here you go, right from the public side of the NMRA web site:
https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/technotes/tn-2.0_track_gauges_0.pdf
Sheldon
How often are the gauges changed or they just updated? Thanks all for finding the resource. I added it to my bookmarks (won't find it again, but still nice to have!).
kasskaboose How often are the gauges changed or they just updated? Thanks all for finding the resource. I added it to my bookmarks (won't find it again, but still nice to have!).
They have not changed in a long time. Just updated a little.
Thank you Sheldon. Nice knowing I don't need to get another gauge. They are extremely helpful.
I can't speak for anyone else, but I kind of think that the gauge is most often used to check wheel gauge, and the second most often use is to check track gauge.
Trouble shooting pre-made turnouts or checking scratch built turnouts are a whole other story.
maxmanTrouble shooting pre-made turnouts or checking scratch built turnouts are a whole other story.
what do you mean? why wouldn't you use an NMRA gauge to check turnouts, whether pre-made or scratch-built?
Not only does the gauge identify track gauge clearances, it also identifies flangeway and point clearances
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Please re-read what I said. I didn't say the gauge wouldn't be used for checking turnouts. I said that I suspect that the gauge would be used more often for checking track and wheel set dimensions.
Those dimensions are often routinely checked. I have many model R/R friends and don't think any of them routinely check prefab turnout dimensions prior to use.
maxman Please re-read what I said. I didn't say the gauge wouldn't be used for checking turnouts. I said that I suspect that the gauge would be used more often for checking track and wheel set dimensions. Those dimensions are often routinely checked. I have many model R/R friends and don't think any of them routinely check prefab turnout dimensions prior to use.
maxman I can't speak for anyone else, but I kind of think that the gauge is most often used to check wheel gauge, and the second most often use is to check track gauge. Trouble shooting pre-made turnouts or checking scratch built turnouts are a whole other story.
The late Jim Hediger provides an excellent tutorial on the uses of the NMRA gauge in this YouTube video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JX8-79iLCZQ
I wish I had a guage when I started building my layout some 25 years or so ago. I had some, not many, turnouts that needed some correction/pursuasion. The problem was they were already installed. Would have been much easier to do it at my work desk. Of course I now have one and use it frequently to check wheel guageand still some track guage.
Regards, Chris
richhotrainThe phrase "a whole other story" seems to imply that there is some higher level of complexity in checking measurements other than wheel gauge and track gauge.
Regardless of how grouchy old men choose to interpret things, what I meant to say was that many/most of us have one of those gauges. And that the gauge gets its most usage for checking track and wheel set gauge.
A "whole other story" refers to those who use the gauge to check problematic pre-made or made from scratch turnouts, and therefore use more of the gauges capability.
And fwiw, I'll be 77 next month, so I know grouchy old men when I see them
So, I've read all 13 responses and not one answered the question on my initial post. Mostly, I was referred to another site. My question asked about the NO GO measurement on the upper left and a third prong for flangeways on one gage and only two on the other. I suspect, like me, no one actually knows the answer. Sometimes this site is like the old "telephone" game. You start with one statement or question and end up miles away.
leewal So, I've read all 13 responses and not one answered the question on my initial post. Mostly, I was referred to another site. My question asked about the NO GO measurement on the upper left and a third prong for flangeways on one gage and only two on the other. I suspect, like me, no one actually knows the answer. Sometimes this site is like the old "telephone" game. You start with one statement or question and end up miles away.
I do agree with one of your comments and that is that no one apparently knows the answer. That said, some of us still tried to be helpful and did some obvious research to offer up some links. Did you even look at those links?
Before things get more spicy, I think we ought to anwer an OPs question, but what's wrong in offering sage advice? The suggestions I get here are outstanding and I learned long ago to leave the ego at the door.
Even with model trains, I approach it as "I know nothing." Such a motto also applies to my marriage. Keep offering the help everyone becuase this information sponge (and likely others) need it! We helped each other get through a pandemic, the periodic DC/DCC divide, and anything else. How? With a fair amount of civility and transparency. Not too hard to maintain.
Sorry for the sermon.
So, you don't like the responses, eh?
See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GA27Ij5QYuI
I didn't watch the whole thing, but the no-go notch has to do with wheel width.
I presume that somewhere in the video he discusses the pins.
Well guess what, I know the answer. But I have a life other than answering your questions on this forum, and the day I answered your post, I was busy but still took time to get you some instruction on how the gage works.
Here is a photo of a Mark II gage, likely from around 1968 when I joined the NMRA. It orginally had the center top prong, which is the same flangeway "No-Go" as the left angled side prong on a Mark IV or V gage.
I removed the center top prong years ago for the same reason the NMRA redesigned the gage.
They redesigned the gage and moved this feature because in the top location it prevents you from properly using the gage to measure crossing flangeways with the other two prongs.
In this picture you will see from left to right, Mark II, Mark IV and Mark V versions.
AND, if you look REALLY close at the top of the Mark II gage, you can see the litttle dip where I ground off the center prong.
Any other questions?
kasskaboose Before things get more spicy, I think we ought to anwer an OPs question, but what's wrong in offering sage advice? The suggestions I get here are outstanding and I learned long ago to leave the ego at the door. Even with model trains, I approach it as "I know nothing." Such a motto also applies to my marriage. Keep offering the help everyone becuase this information sponge (and likely others) need it! We helped each other get through a pandemic, the periodic DC/DCC divide, and anything else. How? With a fair amount of civility and transparency. Not too hard to maintain. Sorry for the sermon.
I answered his question, it took me a little time to round up the visual aids.
leewalMy question asked about the NO GO measurement on the upper left and a third prong for flangeways on one gage
when i've used the gauge for scratch building turnouts, i used the flange way tabs at the top to make sure that of both the track gauge is corrent and that the flange gap created by the guard rail was not too narrow. i used the No Go tab to make sure the flange gap wasnt' too wide. I learned that the guard rail pulls the wheels away from the tip of the frog and is a critical part of the turnout
the point tabs on the top right similarly indicate the minimum spacing between the open points and stock rail
the other interesting feature is on the side for measuring the track gauge. Not only does it indicate if the gauge is too narrow, but the nothch on right side indicates that the gauage is too wide
leewalI suspect, like me, no one actually knows the answer.
the gauge comes with an instruction sheet that i believe most of us read decades ago.
The NMRA instructions linked to previously clearly describe what the NO GO is for. Obviously you didn't read them.