BEAUSABREVery nice model, but any working fishing vessel would have some rust patches - they take a battering!
Not as much as most modelers seem to think
-Photographs by Kevin Parson
Wooden hull fishing vessels rarely have very much rust, never in patches. An occasional streak maybe.
Also notice there is no rust on the exposed steel parts. The crews keep these clean and painted with fastidious attention. Their paychecks depend on it.
The only rusty items I recall seeeing on commercial fishing vessels were the anchor and anchor chain.
The small rust streaks on VILCO 14 originate from the net doors stowed directly in a saddle on the rail. Vilco was unique in stowing the doors like that, so the rust streaks were a spotting feature for their company boats. It is a subtle detail, but a modeler's eye catches these things.
The doors on MISS AMY J and QUEST are stowed in the typical J-brace.
All those vessels were over twenty years old when photographed in 1995. They certainly do not take the "battering" most people expect.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
BEAUSABRE Thank you, were the black and gold units equipped with steam generators?
Thank you, were the black and gold units equipped with steam generators?
Rich
Alton Junction
Peter, thanks for your comments.
SeeYou190 richhotrain When you say that Vallejo does not have very good adhesion and will not hold up well to even moderate handling of the rolling stock, what will happen? Rich, I am the #1 fan of Vallejo paints for all types of brush painting. I rarely use other brands, but Turbo-Dork and Citadel are also excellent. That said, Vallejo should have stayed in their lane. The “Model Air” line is not suitable for models that will be handled. Also, I have never used it… but I have heard all the stories from wargamers. The paint comes off when handled. That might be why they called the line “Model Air”, and not “Game Air”. The paint is good for display case models only. richhotrain Is priming only necessary if the original paint is stripped off? I prime everything, even if it is factory painted, or has original lettering. I rarely remove the original paint/lettering. I like to have a even color to airbrush over. PM Railfan Now, RustOleum owns Testors now, and I think for now they are still producing Testors. However, the spray patterns I get from the rattle cans are just awful. Spatter, splotches, spitting, and spitooey! The most recent cans of Testors #1260 Dullcoat have sprayed way too fast and thick. It is not what it used to be at all. gmpullman For years I used PollyScale for structure and some rolling stock painting. For me that stuff dried like true baked enamel, it was very durable. I still have some that has adhered to some of my painting equipment (mixing stirrers and such) that the only way to remove it is with a sharp scraper. For decades Poll-S Fantasy was THE paint for wargaming. It would not come off, just like you said. You could play Dungeons And Dragons for months, and your Meeple would never have a bare spot. That was great paint. We were so lucky Vallejo filled the void when Polly-S Fantasy went away, but it goes on completely differently. richhotrain So, in your opinion, is Tamiya the way to go? I have only airbrushed Tamiya a handful of times. My experience is that you MUST use the Tamiya brand thinner. Also, Tamiya paint is water-soluble, not water-based. This is a common misconception. gmpullman Antonio FP45 has been a longstanding proponent of the Alclad system. So has Kevin! richhotrain Is there any advantage or disadvantage to either glossy or flat when airbrushing? I try to always use gloss paints where there will be decals. I have a much easier time applying decals over a gloss surface. If the surface will not have decals I like to use up my supply of flat Floquil paints. -Kevin
richhotrain When you say that Vallejo does not have very good adhesion and will not hold up well to even moderate handling of the rolling stock, what will happen?
richhotrain Is priming only necessary if the original paint is stripped off?
PM Railfan Now, RustOleum owns Testors now, and I think for now they are still producing Testors. However, the spray patterns I get from the rattle cans are just awful. Spatter, splotches, spitting, and spitooey!
gmpullman For years I used PollyScale for structure and some rolling stock painting. For me that stuff dried like true baked enamel, it was very durable. I still have some that has adhered to some of my painting equipment (mixing stirrers and such) that the only way to remove it is with a sharp scraper.
richhotrain So, in your opinion, is Tamiya the way to go?
gmpullman Antonio FP45 has been a longstanding proponent of the Alclad system.
richhotrain Is there any advantage or disadvantage to either glossy or flat when airbrushing?
SeeYou190 HO-Velo I'm still in the double-action brush learning curve. I rarely use one of my double-action airbrushes for model trains. My good old reloable Paasche Model H single action external mix bottom feeder does 90% of the work. I have found the double action airbrushes are excellent when painting camfoflage patterns on 1/100 scale armored fighting vehicles, but not really much of an improvement for most tasks. Plus... the Paasche is so easy to clean compared to a Badger model 150 dual action. -Kevin
HO-Velo I'm still in the double-action brush learning curve.
I rarely use one of my double-action airbrushes for model trains.
My good old reloable Paasche Model H single action external mix bottom feeder does 90% of the work.
I have found the double action airbrushes are excellent when painting camfoflage patterns on 1/100 scale armored fighting vehicles, but not really much of an improvement for most tasks.
Plus... the Paasche is so easy to clean compared to a Badger model 150 dual action.