With Scalecoat gone its really hard finding paint. Trying to find a replacement. Hear rumors that vallejo and trucolor dont adhere well to even a primed surface. Trying to find a suitable replacement for scalecoat gloss black. I liked how I could decal on it without having to do another layer of gloss. Any suggestions? maybe Mr color? Tamiya black? What do you use?
Charles
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Modeling the Santa Fe & Pennsylvania in HO
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLb3FRqukolAtnD1khrb6lQ
Instagram (where I share projects!): https://www.instagram.com/trainman440
Trainman440Any suggestions?
I'm fortunate that I still have a pretty good supply of Scalecoat black. I agree that the 'adhesion factor' of Vallejo is mediocre at best and I don't consider it as an option for locomotive or rolling stock paint. Weathering, yes. Structures, yes but be careful when handling them, I've had it scrape off unintentionally.
I've never used Trucolor but might try some in the near future.
When my stock of Scalecoat does turn to goo or runs out I'm going to look at automotive paints at one of the auto parts suppliers in town that has a good selection. In addition I might look at one of the big box home center stores. I seem to recall seeing a few rattle cans of lacquer-based paint that could be decanted for airbrush use.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-11-oz-Gloss-Black-Lacquer-Spray-Paint-1905830/100195918
I wouldn't hesitate to use a black lacquer as the primary coat on a brass loco. I'd have to test it on plastic (remember Floquil Barrier). For plastic I'd probably use a Tamiya fine primer before the finish coat.
Good Luck, Ed
At this point I think we are down to Testors Classic in the 1/4 ounce galss bottles.
Like Ed, I have a good supply of Scalcoat II on hand.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I feel stuck with either using trucolor (which isnt very viable because 1. they slowly dry out over time with their stock plastic bottles, and 2. theyre prethinned meaning id absolutely FLY through bottles of $$$ paint), or tamiya (which could be viable. Heard nothing but good things about their paint).
Im tempted to blow a ton of money on testing various solvent based paints from sherwin williams and axalta, to find a suitable replacement where I can buy a lifetime supply right away. Instead of buying a dozen tiny bottles of black. every few years.
My understanding is that Scalecoat i is a solvent based lacquer? and scalecoat ii is an solvent based enamel?
Only automotive enamel i can find is acrylic enamel...hmmmm
Trainman440Im tempted to blow a ton of money on testing various solvent based paints from sherwin williams and axalta...
You don't have to, Charles. There's a fella on YouTube (Barbatos Rex) who did it using off-the-shelf spray paint cans from a variety of paint manufacturers - modeling and household. IIRC, it was at least a 1-1/2 hr video and the presenter used a set stock of plastic and metal pieces to make the comparisons. I thought it was well done.
I tried searching for the video but haven't been able to track it down yet. BR also did one on primers and has done single manufacturer lines of paint. (Maybe the primer video was the one I was thinking of?) In any event, worth checking out before you lay down a house payment for your own testing.
FWIW,
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Dipped a toe into airbrushing Tru-Color paint. Automotive Gloss Hemi Orange was my choice for the EKO Plymouth Valiant.
Covered the Valiant body with a light coat of Tamiya Grey Liquid primer and let dry overnight. Mixed the Tru-Color 50/50 with thinner as per a 'Barbatos Rex' You Tube vid, but used proprietary thinner, then laid the paint down wet. Also gave the Tru-Color Semi-Gloss Black a whirl, (again thinned 50/50) over some primer coated PVC pipe. Was pleased with how the paint went on and happy with the finish.
Regards, Peter
Decanting Tamya Gloss Black from a spraycan has worked for me.
Rust...... It's a good thing !
What method do you all use to decant the spray can?
And once decanted, do you use paint as is or add thinner?
Thanks
What are you painting? Vallejo works fine on most plastics, based on my experience. Sticks very well to auto primer.
Simon
The British have a paint line called Humbrul don't know anything else other than it is popular paint.
shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
Ive been watching Barbatos Rex for the past two days. His videos are very imformative. From what Im seeing, Tamiya acrylic and tamiya lacquer paints are the way to go. My concern is that tamiya acrylic isnt durable enough, and therefore the lacquer is the closest ill get to scalecoat ii?
Anyone got experience on tamiya paints?
Charles,
I use Tamiya lacquer spray paint and REALLY like the finish. It sprays on thin so it doesn't cover details. It also dries very quickly so that reduces the time between coats. With Scalecoat I I usually had to wait 5 days before applying the 2nd coat.
NVSRRThe British have a paint line called Humbrul don't know anything else other than it is popular paint.
Humbrol are very good quality paints. Very few gloss colors. The gloss colours have a "G" embossed on the lid.
I have found that for good results you must use the Humbrol brand thinner with these paints.
A bit pricy, but your can get a a lot of paint if you want it.
https://www.myperfectcolor.com/Floquil-Paint-Color-Matches/34227.htm.
Rick Jesionowski
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
To decant spraypaint, I use a small shotglasss.
I hold a paper towel across the back of the spraynossle and face the spraynossle into the shot glass.hold the shotglass at a bit of an angle, and with the other hand, spray the can into the glass. The paper towel covers the glass and, if it's done right , most of the paint goes into the glass.( the paper towel will absorb the overspray/blowback.)
I usually don't need to thin decanted spraypaint, but test it on something first. You may find that thinning is nessacary for your airbrush.
I have had a good time using tru-color paints. However, I have no reference points to base them off of. The only other airbrush paint I used was an automotive paint by Duplicolor (it did not work well). I did not use any primer for my brass models and they have stuck well. Make sure to use a dull coat or gloss coat to set them.
With brass prep matters a lot. Make sure to strip and do a vinegar etch. I learned this the hard way after I had paint peel straight off like an orange.
Besides Model railroading, I've been a plastic scale modeler (aircraft and cars) for more the last 50 years. For air brushing Gloss Black paint, my go to paint has been and still is Tamiya Acrylic Lacquer F-1 thinned 1:1 then the final wet coat 40:60. For my Thinner I only use Mr Leveler #400 as it contains just the right amount of retarder.
joel