Rich,
Wow, a lot of good input on this thread!
Don't be nervous regarding the windows.
For example, if you currently own Walthers older run passenger cars (early 2000's), Walthers Proto passenger cars, and the old Rivarossi Budd passenger cars, you'll notice that the narrow window strips fit "snuggly" into the window openings and are nearly flush with the surface of the window row.
Walthers Mainline passenger car windows, on the other hand are styled very similarly to the 1980's era ConCor 85ft passenger cars. Each car as two, long transparent plastic strips hanging down from the roof, one on each side. With the roof on the car, the clear strips sit behind the window openings but are not flush with the window opening's surface.
Not a big deal. Since they are glued to the roof, it's simple to apply long strips of masking tape to the clear "window" strips and apply primer and/or paint to your roof. One nice bonus is that Super Clean does not damage the window strips while the roof is soaking in the solution.
Sorry for the blurriness: Here is a photo of the Mainline Budd I was working on. You can see the roof section with the green tinted "window" glazing attached. Very simple, although I prefer flush fitting windows.
BTW: I had tried the 91% alcohol at this stage and it did not work, which is why I switched over to Super Clean.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
AntonioFP45 Don't be nervous regarding the windows. For example, if you currently own Walthers older run passenger cars (early 2000's), Walthers Proto passenger cars, and the old Rivarossi Budd passenger cars, you'll notice that the narrow window strips fit "snuggly" into the window openings and are nearly flush with the surface of the window row. Walthers Mainline passenger car windows, on the other hand are styled very similarly to the 1980's era ConCor 85ft passenger cars. Each car as two, long transparent plastic strips hanging down from the roof, one on each side. With the roof on the car, the clear strips sit behind the window openings but are not flush with the window opening's surface. Not a big deal. Since they are glued to the roof, it's simple to apply long strips of masking tape to the clear "window" strips and apply primer and/or paint to your roof. One nice bonus is that Super Clean does not damage the window strips while the roof is soaking in the solution.
Next up, I will order an airbrush, compressor and respirator. I plan to build my own spray booth.
Rich
Alton Junction
I was watching a video this morning on airbrushing for beginners, and I was amazed at the number and type of painting accessories for the airbrush. Here is a list of the painting accessories that were discussed in the video:
~ Paint Thinner
~ Nitrile Gloves
~ Glass Measuring Cups
~ Empty Glass Jars
~ Transfer Pipettes
~ Airbrush Cleaning Pot
~ Cotton Swabs
~ Nylon Brushes
This is going to get expensive, not only the airbrush, compressor, exhaust fan and respirator, but also all of these accessories. But, what can you do if you want to spray passenger cars using an airbrush.
Rich, respectfully, please don't overthink it (like I did when starting out).
Start with the basic steps.
1. Air compressor. There are a wide variety available in varying price ranges and quality grades. Rather than a "hobby compresor" I purchased a general purpose Bostitch 3-gallon "pancake" unit from Lowes. I think they sell in the $150-$165 range today. The noise level, for me, is not bad but you'd have to judge for yourself. Some businesses will demo units for customers. Here's a YouTube review. This is a 6-gallon Bostitch pancake unit but its motor is identical to the one used on the 3-gallon version. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jd88jjtUbGs
If you prefer a more quiet unit, The "California Air Tools" hobby compressor 2010A is a very nice compressor, although pricier at the $220-$240 range. Currently $208 on Amazon.
2. Airbrush: HUGE variety on the market. I own 5. Yet, my constant "go to" is my Paasche' VL. To me it's an all-around workhorse like an EMD GP38-2. As long as it's cleaned, it will work through A LOT of paint tasks before the need to replace any seals arises. My first Paasche' lasted 2 decades and I retired it only after having damaged it by dropping it on a concrete surface..........for the 3rd time! (butter fingers). Since then I make sure that my hands are dry or gloved when spraying. The single action unit you mentioned is a good choice. Like a car, choose one that you think you'll be comfortable with.
3. Nitrile or latex disposable gloves - (Amazon, Harbor Freight, Norther Tool) and should last you a long while. To me, the thicker versions are overpriced. Imho, 4 mil thickness works ($7.99 at Amazon) well. A box of 100, size Large should last you quite a while.
4. Cleaning Brushes - Currently $2 at Harbor Freight. Very handy set with multiple sized on a ring.
5. Measuring cups - Generally inexpensive. I use the disposable 1 ounce plastic measuring cops available from Hobbytown, Amazon, etc. 1 pack of 50 plastic cups sells for $8 at Amazon. Sometimes even cheaper when they go on sale. My current pack is 4 years old. Still have a few left.
6. Airbrush cleaning pot. A good tool to have. However, I've never owned one as I normally flush my airbrush out with lacquer thinner then wipe my needle and fluid tip with a cloth wet with lacquer thinner or alcohol.
Starting out, I'd spend 4 to 5 minutes cleaning out my airbrush. After several paint jobs, I could flush and wipe my airbrush, needle, tip, and jar / cup properly in just over 1 minute! Becomes a normal routine.
I acquired my equipment little by little while still having some rattle cans in my stock. I was hesitant when I took this road until I realized that the cost of the compressor and airbrush kit was still cheaper than the price of one Broadway Limited HO locomotive.
(I'd enjoy a BLI C&O Greenbriar, but $500+ is too big of a "wallop" for my strained "wallet").
AntonioFP45 Rich, respectfully, please don't overthink it (like I did when starting out). Start with the basic steps.
But only as it relates to the exhaust fan.
I started that other thread on the spray booth because I was thoroughly confused about what type of exhaust fan to use. But, I think that I now have that figured out.
All of the information in your latest reply is very useful and very much appreciated. Your continuing help and advice have really steered me in the right direction. Thanks so much.
Hi there. I'm sure you will be pleased with your airbrush. I use mine all the time, for rolling stock, buildings, etc. I've been using my single-action Badger for over 20 years. I also have a dual action, but I rarely use it. Playing with the pressure level and the nozzle will allow you to do a lot of things.
An oil-free compressor can be found at low cost at just about at any good hardware store. The type of paint you use will actually impact the other purchases. Apart from primers (I use rattle can auto primers), I strictly use acrylic paints. No harmful solvents, so no gloves and no complicated paint booth. I still wear a mask - non-toxic does not mean no harm. Painting acrylics is a bit more tricky, but the finish is quite good if you go with good quality paint.
Enjoy!
Simon
snjroy Hi there. I'm sure you will be pleased with your airbrush. I use mine all the time, for rolling stock, buildings, etc. I've been using my single-action Badger for over 20 years. I also have a dual action, but I rarely use it. Playing with the pressure level and the nozzle will allow you to do a lot of things. An oil-free compressor can be found at low cost at just about at any good hardware store. The type of paint you use will actually impact the other purchases. Apart from primers (I use rattle can auto primers), I strictly use acrylic paints. No harmful solvents, so no gloves and no complicated paint booth. I still wear a mask - non-toxic does not mean no harm. Painting acrylics is a bit more tricky, but the finish is quite good if you go with good quality paint. Enjoy! Simon
Hi Rich,
I hope that I'm not violating any rules and that this pdf link works:
AIRBRUSHING - basics_of_airbrushing.pdf
AntonioFP45 Hi Rich, I hope that I'm not violating any rules and that this pdf link works: AIRBRUSHING - basics_of_airbrushing.pdf
Ok, when you have a chance send me a PM with your email address and I'll send the article to you that way
Is this the article?
https://www.trains.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/basics_of_airbrushing.pdf
Good Luck, Ed
gmpullman Is this the article? https://www.trains.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/basics_of_airbrushing.pdf Good Luck, Ed