Chain Link Fence Question

[Anonymous]

Hello,

One question on adhesives. Building scale chainlink fencing out of screen mesh and steel posts. I was wondering what a good adhesive would be. My main problem is the setup time and the fact that the screen is a porous material. Also when using thin strands of screen wire for the barbed wire at the top of the fence, I have tried every adhesive. They all failed to hold the wire in place.

I have tried Elmers, Crazy Glue, and even 2-part (binary) Epoxy. Any suggestions? Thanks.

-Wolv33

[Anonymous]

I use Evergreen's 3/64 rod for my posts and rails, I use model airplane glue to put them in the ground and together, works quick enough and you still have time to work with it, especially if you have a curved fence. To put on the my fence material, I use bridal vail material from a fablic store ( make sure you get the very fine mesh) I use a very very thin layer of airplane glue, wipe it down good with my finger first, or I use a spray adhesive. I have not used steel posts and wire screen before nor have I as yet put on the barbed wire tops ( have not found anything reasonably priced that looks convincing) but I would thing something like Zap would work. What type of material is the mesh?? is it metal or plastic, you may be trying to glue two different materials that require a thick glue, try wiping it down first with your finger before putting on the mesh?? Good luck, let us know what happens. Ron..

[Anonymous]

Wolverine, I've used the Bridal vail fabric also sprayed silver with very good results. I've used Evergreen round strips and sometimes toothpick as posts and use CA the adhear it.........Jamie

[Anonymous]

You don't mention what the screen mesh is made of. I use a brass mesh, and either brass or steel posts....I lightly tin the mesh and posts with electronics grade solder, and bond the me***o the posts with a fine soldering tip. Easiest positioning jig for me is just pushpins into a piece of soft pine.
regards/Mike

[Anonymous]

Wolv, I have never used screen wire, but I have frequently used the bridal veil others have already mentioned. For the posts and rails, I use a soft wire. As to your question, I use a slow setting (thick) ACC applied to the posts and rails with a toothpick and the chainlink fabric applied over that. I have never had trouble with the ACC bleeding into the links or not holding the material to the posts.

If you'd like to see how realistic the bridal veil approach looks, check the photos on my website:
www.homepage.mac.com/michael21/CMS-RR-Co.

I think there are at least 4 photos posted that show the fencing pretty clearly.

[Anonymous]

Hi, Wolverine. Judging by your monicker, I'd hazard a guess that you are from Michigan. If not, perhaps this could help anyhow. As a longtime auto mechanic, I have used a product called "J-B WELD", This stuff will fix anything from gas tanks to cylinder heads. I'm sure it would work for your project. Around here, it is available at most auto parts stores. It is a two-part epoxy, dries to a dark grey color, and will stick to ANYTHING! If you can't find it around your locale, let me know. I could buy some here and mail it to you.
Good luck, Todd C.

[Anonymous]

Just as an afterthought, wolverine. Have you tried soldering? If you are doing "metal-to-metal"
that might be the best way. But if you need the JB weld, let me know.
Todd C.

[Anonymous]

Mike,

This is very close to what I have been doing. Even the jig with pushpins is right on. I believe the screen material is galv aluminum. I got the idea when I opened a box of scale chainlink fencing at a hobby store-they wanted $20.00 for it. I knew I could make it cheaper. I have had much luck with the main fence adhesing to the steel posts. I have had NO luck with the top strands of barbedwire (aka screen thread). But, now that you mention it, I might just try soldering. I do not know why I didn't think of that. Thanks!

-Wolv33

[Anonymous]

Hi,

I will try that too, but my main problem was the three top strands of barbed wire, and getting them to stay in place.

So are you from Missouri? I live close to Jefferson City. Thanks.

-Wolv33

[Anonymous]

Hi there,

Nope, not michigan. The handle was used when I was heavily into comic collecting, and has stuck with me.
I am from IL, but live in Missouri.

Anyhow, I will try that. Since it was binary epoxy, I thought it would be the same as the epoxy I tried. I have JB Weld in my toolbox.

-Wolv33

[Anonymous]

Hi again Todd.

Thanks just the same. It is readily available here in Missouri. I am also going to try soldering, since what I am doing is all metal. I just thought that maybe the aluminum, with the lower melting point, may have problems with that. I will try it though. Thanks to you and Mike for the idea.

-Wolv33