Yet another one for my Forum friends. Does anybody have a good brushable paint match for Mineral Red? As one of my prototype roads used a color that weathered to a Mineral Red, I use it quite a bit when I model their cars. I have a bottle but I can't guarantee how good it is or how much longer it will last. The cross match charts I have don't have that color in their lists. As usual, any assistance that can be provided would be most welcomed.
In acrylics, Vallejo has a good range:
https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/hobby-color-charts/
Trial and error is probably your best route.
Simon
In the photo below, the bottle on the right is Pollyscale Mineral Red, while the bigger one on the left is Scalecoat's Flat Oxide Red.
It's just a guess, but I think that the Scalecoat colour could be altered to better-match the Mineral Red by the addition of some Scalecoat Brown ( of some sort...I don't have any Scalecoat Brown of any type, on-hand).
If you opt for a try, I'd suggest doing what I call the "brush-load" mixing method: dip a brush into the Flat Oxide Red, then place a blob of the paint on an impervious surface (a piece of aluminum foil will work). Next, wipe the brush on a paper towel or piece of cloth, then dip it into the brown paint, using the brush to mix the two colours. Next, decide if the colour is close enough or if it needs more Oxide Red or more "Brown". (Wipe the brush every time it needs to be dipped into either colour).
Keep count of each dip into each colour, so that once you find the suitable mix, you'll be able to use those ratios to create a big-enough batch to paint a car...or several cars.
I've used that mixing method on hundreds of cars, and in some cases, to match prototype paint colours on coloured photos....in those instances, the mixed colours have matched the colour on the photo so well that the blob of applied paint is indiscernable unless the photo is viewed at an oblique angle.
I found a Vallejo colour chart, but was unable to copy it to add it here. On it was what looked to be an airbrushed blob of colour (color- in your case, of course) that looked to me as if it was very close to Pollyscale's Mineral Red.If you can find that chart, Vallejo has labelled it as "Gory Red", and it's at the bottom-left corner of the chart.
Wayne
doctorwayne I found a Vallejo colour chart, but was unable to copy it to add it here. On it was what looked to be an airbrushed blob of colour (color- in your case, of course) that looked to me as if it was very close to Pollyscale's Mineral Red. If you can find that chart, Vallejo has labelled it as "Gory Red", and it's at the bottom-left corner of the chart. Wayne
I found a Vallejo colour chart, but was unable to copy it to add it here. On it was what looked to be an airbrushed blob of colour (color- in your case, of course) that looked to me as if it was very close to Pollyscale's Mineral Red.
If you can find that chart, Vallejo has labelled it as "Gory Red", and it's at the bottom-left corner of the chart.
I did find it and as usual for the colors that I want, it is an airbrush color. Just means a bit more work when it comes to painting. (Two or three coats as need be. I just did four boxcars with a Vallejo airbrush mix for boxcar red and it took that many coats to repaint them.)
Edit: As that color is in their game line, I see why I hadn't seen that color before.
Of all the Pollyscale paint colors that I have used on structures, Mineral Red is my all time favorite. I used it to paint the focal point of my layout, Dearborn Station. I still have a partially filled bottle. Dearborn Station is the only structure on my layout to be graced by Mineral Red.
Rich
Alton Junction
My bad. I misspoke when I said that I used Mineral Red on Dearborn Station. I actually used Special Oxide Red.
I have used Mineral Red on other structures. Sorry for that misstatement about using Mineral Red on Dearborn Station.
richhotrain Of all the Pollyscale paint colors that I have used on structures, Mineral Red is my all time favorite. I used it to paint the focal point of my layout, Dearborn Station. I still have a partially filled bottle. Dearborn Station is the only structure on my layout to be graced by Mineral Red. Rich
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Don, I will take a rain check on your offer. I have yet to put an interior in any of my structures. It is as if my cities, towns and villages have no one living in them or shopping in their stores or working in their offices.
Vallejo paints handle extremely well, much like Polly S, IMO. In your seaching, be aware that Vallejo has more than one type of paint offering. The two most interesting to modelers is Model Air for Air Brushing, and Model Color for brushing. The color lines aren't exactly the same from one to the other.
The Model Railroad Hobbiest Acrylic Guide says the mix to match Polly S Mineral Red is two parts 71.085 (Ferrari Red) and one part 71.084 (Fire Red). The "71" indicates "Model Air".
If you happen to use Vallejo, Simple Green spray bottle from anywhere such as Walmart cleans an airbrush like you were using Acetone to do it.
Deane Johnson The Model Railroad Hobbiest Acrylic Guide says the mix to match Polly S Mineral Red is two parts 71.085 (Ferrari Red) and one part 71.084 (Fire Red). The "71" indicates "Model Air".
Interesting. I have an MRH chart and I couldn't find that mix on it. As I don't have that chart handy I will have to check it again.
Deane Johnson Vallejo paints handle extremely well, much like Polly S, IMO. In your seaching, be aware that Vallejo has more than one type of paint offering. The two most interesting to modelers is Model Air for Air Brushing, and Model Color for brushing. The color lines aren't exactly the same from one to the other. The Model Railroad Hobbiest Acrylic Guide says the mix to match Polly S Mineral Red is two parts 71.085 (Ferrari Red) and one part 71.084 (Fire Red). The "71" indicates "Model Air". If you happen to use Vallejo, Simple Green spray bottle from anywhere such as Walmart cleans an airbrush like you were using Acetone to do it.
Do Vallejo Acrylic Model Color paints require a primer coat first?
Standard Vallejo (White cap) is thicker unless you get Airbrush thinner. Airbrish versions (black cap) are watery so act more like a wash. I've had problems with the paint reaching mortor lines unless it was thinned down significantly. Never had that issue with PolyS. Tamiya is more watery, and appears to be a higher quality paint. But test runs show poor adhession, and uneven application for similar colors.
Vallejo doesn't push as easy as PolyS, that is for sure. And coverage isn't as good. Sorry Vallejo if you are reading this. Yours is the best I found for an Acryllic replacement. But its still not near as good as older Testors/PolyS.Some say the color is a deciding factor on how well it goes on. So take what I say with a grain of salt Rich.
Don, thanks for that info. I am considering Vallejo Acrylic Model Color that I would hand brush onto some styrene plastic structures. Would I need to use a primer first or could I just begin to apply the Vallejo Acrylic Model Color to the styrene without a primer coat?
richhotrainDo Vallejo Acrylic Model Color paints require a primer coat first?
I've been using Vallejo Model Color and some Vallejo Model Air for the past three years now. It took me a little playing around to get it to where I like it.
I can't say for sure on brush-painted styrene but for airbrushed, yes, you need to have a good primer coat. I use Tamiya canned primers. They're thin enough that they don't obscure details.
Vallejo primer isn't primer, IMHO, it is just a gray or other color of their same paint. It doesn't bond well to styrene and can't be sanded. At least that was my experience with it. Others say it is great.
I recently airbrushed a tall downtown building spraying Vallejo, thinned with their thinner and flow enhancer directly onto styrene and I could easily scrape it off with my fingernail. I didn't bother re-shooting the whole structure but I did touch up the scrapes and handled it carefully until it was on the layout.
For brass and other rolling stock I still use Scalecoat I and II.
Good Luck, Ed
Thanks, Ed.
richhotrain Don, thanks for that info. I am considering Vallejo Acrylic Model Color that I would hand brush onto some styrene plastic structures. Would I need to use a primer first or could I just begin to apply the Vallejo Acrylic Model Color to the styrene without a primer coat? Rich
The Model color is one I've never had a problem with. I have some 3D printed mailboxes that were painted with the color and they have been handled with no issues on the paint peeling.
FRRYKid richhotrain Don, thanks for that info. I am considering Vallejo Acrylic Model Color that I would hand brush onto some styrene plastic structures. Would I need to use a primer first or could I just begin to apply the Vallejo Acrylic Model Color to the styrene without a primer coat? Rich The Model color is one I've never had a problem with. I have some 3D printed mailboxes that were painted with the color and they have been handled with no issues on the paint peeling.
The problem with Vallejo brush on paints (white cap) is it doesn't sink easily into crevices, even with a stiff brush. If I turn my Merchants Row 1 building, I can see where the paint didn't sink inbetween the cracks into the mortor lines. It will make the thinned mortor process a little more difficult because it's easier to apply the thinned mortor if it has an even paint basecoat. In those cases I would apply a primer.Live and learn.