With the loss of Pollyscale Concrete and Aged Concrete, and now that Model Master has discontinued the same colors, I had some Woodland Scenics - Concrete Paint (C1217) on hand, so I used it to paint some passenger station platforms.
The paint is thinner than Pollyscale or Model Master, so it took 3 coats for satisfactory coverage. I really like the color, but as I handled the painted platforms, the Woodland Scenics paint started to peel off the styrene.
I thought that maybe I should have primed the styrene surface first, but it was too late for that. The description does say that the paint is "specially formulated for adding color to Plaster Cloth, Flex Paste™, foam, wood, plaster and papier mache terrain models".
So, I have now concluded that it is not suitable for painting styrene plastic. I finally applied a coat of Pollyscale D&H Gray that I had on hand. I am not crazy about the color, but it will have to do.
Any thoughts or comments?
Rich
Alton Junction
I've always thought of the Woodland Scenics colors as dyes, not paints. I think I tried them many years mixing it with their Smooth-it. I can't recall what the results were as far as color goes but I found the Smooth-it to be difficult to work with and never used it again. If you were going to use them as paints, I would definitely prime first.
There is no one right color for concrete because of the way it changes over time. There are a number of good choices in rattle cans depending on the shade you are after. If you want brush on paints, I would go with a craft acrylic because they offer so many choices in colors that you should be able to find something to your liking and can easily mix a custom color. If I were you, I wouldn't limit myself to colors just because they are called Concrete.
I recently discovered that my favorite rattle can paint for concrete, Krylon's Chalky Finish Putty, had been discontinued. A few days ago, I found an online dealer that was still selling it at a premium price, probably liquidating what was left. It cost over $25 but should last long enough to finish any and all projects I have left to do. It's worth it to me because I am only halfway through doing the sidewalks on the last town on my layout and I didn't want to change colors or try to match what I had already done.
John-NYBW If you want brush on paints, I would go with a craft acrylic because they offer so many choices in colors that you should be able to find something to your liking and can easily mix a custom color.
If you want brush on paints, I would go with a craft acrylic because they offer so many choices in colors that you should be able to find something to your liking and can easily mix a custom color.
All paint pigments are dyes. What makes the difference is the base or binder, and how well it's ground, plus addiatives. Base is like acryllic or oil. The binder is the glue that holds that paint to that surface.As you noted Rich, and the same thing I talked about on my thread with hobby paints: "Some paints are meant for rough porus dry surfaces, which don't posses a positive charge like wood or cloth. Plastic has a large positive charge which often rejects a lot of paints."So there has to be extra fine grinding to get into smooth surfaces, and a binder that works well with positive charge surfaces.Primers will help. But I find they can hide detail.So far Vallego is the closest I found for aged conrete. I'm saving the last of my testors for fine brush detail work like sill plates on windows. I use the Vallego for motar lines and large surface area work. I would hate to go airbrush or shake can. I am not that good with an airbrush. And a shake can outside requires the proper weather conditions. And I don't like lacquers as the cleanup is a pain if you make mistakes. And it's not as evironmentally friendly.
Basically what I'm saying Rich is "I'm in the same boat with you."
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
I am thinkling that concrete paint would be diffiuclt to use. It may set up too fast, you know.
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I use Model Master Light Air Craft Gray over a white primer, then weather with powders or Woodland Scenics Asphalt Paint mixed with alcohol. Bayway Terminal NJ
BroadwayLion I am thinkling that concrete paint would be diffiuclt to use. It may set up too fast, you know.
Only sort of relative to what's being discussed but I used Woodland Scenics Asphalt Pavement Paint and I'm totally impressed. I could swear it's real asphalt, though I know it isn't. Using that along with automovie striping tape looks like the real thing.
I too lament the loss of Polly S. The colors were so appropriate for their name. Nobody has been able to duplicate the work of the Floquil company. So sad that Rustoleum decided to buy the company and destroy the product.