Hello All,
Started my love of this hobbly at age 4 when I saw my grandfathers N guage setup with hills, towns, lights, and lots of trains about 1969.
He started me out with a HO setup a year later. Still have all that rollong stock in a box somewhere. I have setup 5 layouts over the years. About 1 every ten years or so. They last about a year before I need the space for something else. They all have been DC Atlas layouts that fit on a 4x8 playwood.
Now the questions, if I may;
I have lots of Atlas Code 100 & 83 track. But it has all oxidized. How do I clean where the the track connectores slide in? What are teh best connectors these days? Do they still make 100 to 83 track connectors? How to hammer in the track into foam/cork roadbed without breakiong the rail tie?
I have a Athearn B.A.R.T 3 car train with a center car belt drive system. The motor is missing and it never worked well when it was new. Any way to update this to a direct drive 2 truck system? And add DCC capability? Also the connectors between cars were non-standard, and are missing. Any suggestions for a fix? The smoke colored plastic windows have detached from the aluminum shells. How best to reapply?
If I want to go DCC, can I still use my old 70's to 90's era track and switches without causing a short circut? I have 2 engiens that are DCC installed, but ran normaly on my lastest 15 years ago DC layout. I have watched a few videos about DCC and pretty much get it, but practial experaice tend to be the best teacher. Oh, I'm good with wiring and soldering.
I would probably only run up to 4 trains, and maybe 7-8 switches/turn-outs. I just looked at the DCC engines and the boxes say they have lights and sound. What DCC transformer/control unit would be a good value on a 4x8 layout? Do I still use my old DC transformer for the off track lighing? I like lots of lights !! to run trains in the dark.
If I buy any new engiens, desiel, I like dual truck drive so it has enough torque to pull long and slow. What value brands, and feature nomenclature should I look for?
I know this is a lot of questions, and I know my spelling is bad (sorry). Any input, websites, videos would be of great help.
Glad to be part of the community again!
Thanks everyone.
First, KLund1 to this forum! Your first posts will be moderated, so please be patient.
I hope my reply will encourage more knowledgeable folks to provide more informed answers. I don't do N scale, but I do HOn30, using N scale track. So I can provide some answers.
"I have lots of Atlas Code 100 & 83 track. But it has all oxidized. How do I clean where the the track connectores slide in? What are teh best connectors these days? Do they still make 100 to 83 track connectors? How to hammer in the track into foam/cork roadbed without breakiong the rail tie?"
I can't be 100% sure, but if the track was purchased in the 90's, chances are that the track is made of nickel-silver. So it's still totally usable and DCC compatible. Yes, atlas still sells rail joiners for these. To clean track, I recommend using a rag with 90% alcohol. You can set the track on your 4X8 using caulk. Atlas also sells special nails. You should use a hobby hammer to nail them in. The last push on the nail should be done using a punch to avoid breaking anything.
"If I want to go DCC, can I still use my old 70's to 90's era track and switches without causing a short circut? "
Yes, just avoid doing return loops in your track plan. If you want a return-loop, you will need to isolate that section and install a special device. Do a search on this and you will see how to install these. By the way, DCC does not "fix" bad joints in the track. You should install feeders for every joint that has not been soldered. If this is a temporary layout, you can probably get by with feeders every 3'.
"I would probably only run up to 4 trains, and maybe 7-8 switches/turn-outs. I just looked at the DCC engines and the boxes say they have lights and sound. What DCC transformer/control unit would be a good value on a 4x8 layout?"
Digitrax and NCE are probably the leading makes. For what you want, a low-end system (in terms of cost) will be sufficient. They are expandable.
"Do I still use my old DC transformer for the off track lighing? I like lots of lights !! to run trains in the dark.
Yes, good idea, it will remove some load from your system.
"If I buy any new engines, diesel, I like dual truck drive so it has enough torque to pull long and slow. What value brands, and feature nomenclature should I look for?
I'm no expert, but I think you can't to wrong with Kato and Atlas.
Good luck!
Simon
Hi KLund1!
Welcome to the forums!
Let me try to answer your questions. These answers only touch the surface in many cases:
KLund1I have lots of Atlas Code 100 & 83 track. But it has all oxidized. How do I clean where the the track connectores slide in?
First, I'm assuming that this is nickel/silver track. If the track is badly oxidized you might want to try using a 'Bright Boy' track cleaner on the rails and a Dremel tool with a wire brush attachment where the connectors slide on. Note that a Bright Boy is a very aggressive way of cleaning track. It will leave scratches which tend to hold dirt. If you really want to make your track stay clean, you can use a process called 'gleaming' where you slide a large stainless steel washer over the track until all the scratches that were left by the Bright Boy are removed. When done, the track should shine, and will stay clean for weeks or months.
KLund1What are teh best connectors these days? Do they still make 100 to 83 track connectors?
If you have Atlas track the best connectors to use are Atlas connectors. Other brands will work, but I would stay away from Peco connectors because they have to be opened up a bit before they will fit onto the Atlas track. Yes, they still make Code 83 to Code 100 connectors.
KLund1How to hammer in the track into foam/cork roadbed without breakiong the rail tie?
The answer is DON'T 'hammer' the nails in at all if you are going into foam or cork. They don't require that much force, but if the nail holes don't go through the ties all the way, you will need to drill the holes out. If you want to get fancy, there are specialized track nail pliers that have a slot in the tips to hold the nail head. It is crucial that you not push the nails in too hard. You don't want to bend the ties at all, let alone break them. If you bend the ties downward, you will draw the rails closer together and that can cause derailments.
KLund1I have a Athearn B.A.R.T 3 car train with a center car belt drive system. The motor is missing and it never worked well when it was new. Any way to update this to a direct drive 2 truck system? And add DCC capability?
Repowering most locomotives is usually fairly easy. The best place to start is with North West Short Line. https://nwsl.com/ They offer a variety of repowering kits and powered trucks. You won't need two powered trucks for a three car train, but you should consider buying matching dummy trucks with power pick up. Adding DCC is easy, but you might not be able to get an exact match for the prototype engine sound.
KLund1Also the connectors between cars were non-standard, and are missing. Any suggestions for a fix?
Try looking up Kadee couplers. https://www.kadee.com/ You might have to modify the shells a bit to hold new coupler boxes.
KLund1The smoke colored plastic windows have detached from the aluminum shells. How best to reapply?
You can tape them back in or use standard white glue. You don't want to use CA or any solvent based glue. You could also use water based contact cement but the windows will be permanent. If you ever want to paint the shells you will have to mask all the windows.
KLund1If I want to go DCC, can I still use my old 70's to 90's era track and switches without causing a short circut? I have 2 engiens that are DCC installed, but ran normaly on my lastest 15 years ago DC layout. I have watched a few videos about DCC and pretty much get it, but practial experaice tend to be the best teacher. Oh, I'm good with wiring and soldering.
You can use your old track, but the switches may require some work. I'm not familiar with older Atlas switches. Perhaps someone else can respond, or you might find your answers here: https://wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm
KLund1I would probably only run up to 4 trains, and maybe 7-8 switches/turn-outs.
Four trains is a lot for a 4x8 layout but it can be done. The number of switches doesn't really matter, unless you are going to use track power to operate them. You would be better off using your DC power pack to power the turnout motors and layout lighting.
KLund1What DCC transformer/control unit would be a good value on a 4x8 layout?
Most newer DCC systems are pretty good. MRC is at the bottom of the pile feature wise, or at least it was. My personal preferance is the NCE PowerCab. It is reasonably priced and will operate three or possibly four locomotives provided that the locomotives do not draw excess power. Newer locomotives are pretty power efficient but older locomotives may be power hogs. If the system gets overloaded it will simply shut down. You should clean and lubricate your older engines so they aren't drawing any more power than they need to.
KLund1If I buy any new engiens, desiel, I like dual truck drive so it has enough torque to pull long and slow. What value brands, and feature nomenclature should I look for?
Pretty much everything out there has dual powered trucks these days. As far as brands are concerned, that's a 'Chevy or Ford' question. Most modern diesels run pretty well.
Please don't hesitate to ask more questions. I would suggest that you try to include specific details about things like locomotives. It will make the questions much easier to answer accurately.
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Hi KLund1,
I have a question for you.
What is a "B.A.R.T. 3 car train"? Is it an RDC consist?
KLund1 I have a Athearn B.A.R.T 3 car train with a center car belt drive system. The motor is missing and it never worked well when it was new. Any way to update this to a direct drive 2 truck system? And add DCC capability? Also the connectors between cars were non-standard, and are missing. Any suggestions for a fix? The smoke colored plastic windows have detached from the aluminum shells. How best to reapply?
Athearn didn't make that train. It was made by Bart Models of Chatsworth CA (so obscure that it isn't even shown on HOseeker). They used the Athearn RDC drive to make it go. And also as underframes and trucks for the dummies. As such, the trucks are all wrong, but then BART runs on a different track gage, too. So if you're being all that accurate, you can't run your BART train with any of your other stuff. You actually will have to hand lay your track to 5' - 6" gage.
These models have an extruded aluminum body. Looks pretty good (I, too, have a set).
Since the drive is a standard rubber band Athearn RDC drive, you can likely stay with that, right down to powering all three that way. Just pick up some old Athearn RDC's. I'm sure that the brushes can be isolated for DCC. Or you can just replace the missing motor with just about any old Athearn rubber band style motor.
Alternately, Walthers also did BART, and their trucks are a lot closer to correct. You MIGHT be able to find those for a repower, but your train is going to look funny unless you do ALL the trucks.
If you want to stay with the RDC-style trucks, but have a geared drive, you can use either the P1K drive or the Rapido. The P1K will certainly be more affordable.
Ed
hon30critter Hi KLund1, I have a question for you. What is a "B.A.R.T. 3 car train"? Is it an RDC consist? Dave
(prototype version)
KLund1I have setup 5 layouts over the years...............SNIP.....How to hammer in the track into foam/cork roadbed without breakiong the rail tie?
Something is not right here.
The OP built 5 layouts on plywood and he's worried he will have to hammer the nails into foam, with such force the ties will break? Yet he has the touch to remotor and repair missing and broken pieces on his Bart train.
Or maybe he will buy the best value new stuff. He wants the best value DCC system. That last question, alone, should get 3 pages of replies.
My apologies to the OP if I am wrong, but this feels very much like the pattern where a newbie makes a single post and the rest of the forum spends the next week arguing among themselves what the OP should do.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Thanks everyone or all the kind relies.
There is a lot of digest and research from all this. I will need a little times to work on this. But I'm sure I will have further questions. I will first look for threads here, and google, but I still need a little help I will post here for your kind assistance.
Again Many thanks !
7j43kWhat is a "B.A.R.T. 3 car train"?
Thanks Ed,
BigDaddySomething is not right here. The OP built 5 layouts on plywood and he's worried he will have to hammer the nails into foam, with such force the ties will break?
Hi Henry,
Perhaps nobody has suggested that he drill the nail holes out a bit. I can't remember if Atlas track has the nail holes drilled all the way through or not. If not, then the track nails won't go in easily regardless of what is below the ties.
When I wrote my post I didn't think about having to drill out the nail holes. I have since edited the post.
I see the OP has posted twice, so maybe I was being a grumpy sleep deprived old man. I have 5 1/2 more weeks sitting in the recliner, so that is unlikely to improve in the near term.
It helps to drill out the partially punched holes, but if you are just using cork and foam, the nail is likely in the seam of the cork, and the foam has very little grip for track nails. He should use a thin layer of Dap 230 caulk
A lot of people just caulk the track down these days.
Once upon a time there was a company called Pacifc Fast Mail that imported brass engines. The owner was an airline pilot who flew to Japan regularly. One of his imports was called a spud. It was a powered truck total contained that could be used in any situation to power any kind of car. I don't think they have been available for years but if you can find one it would be ideal for your cars. I have one under my metroliners that pulls 7 cars with ease
ndbprr Once upon a time there was a company called Pacifc Fast Mail that imported brass engines. The owner was an airline pilot who flew to Japan regularly. One of his imports was called a spud. It was a powered truck total contained that could be used in any situation to power any kind of car. I don't think they have been available for years but if you can find one it would be ideal for your cars. I have one under my metroliners that pulls 7 cars with ease
The only SPUD I have has a self-induced crack through the plastic main body. It's never been installed/used.
Northwest Short Line sells a variant called a Stanton Drive for $45:
https://nwsl.com/collections/stanton-drives
Yes, Atlas snap track has pre-drilled holes, all the way through. Using nails only makes sense if there is wood under the roadbed. Atlas nails don't look too bad once everything is painted over. But caulk works fine too...