Question about staining and gluing

[jcopilot]

Hi,

Will white glue (or carpenter's glue) still work on wood kit pieces that have been stained?

Jeff 

[trainnut1250]

Jeff,

 

Yes white glue (or carpenters) will work fine on stained wood pieces. What are you building?

 

Have fun,

 

Guy

[jcopilot]

Hi Guy,

Thanks for the reply.

I'm building 3, for now, 5 eventually, Blair Line laser-cut wood loading platforms, item #172.  I have no experience with wood kits but was advised that staining clogs the pores and makes white or carpenter's glue unusable.

Jeff

[jjdamnit]

Hello All,

Actually, it's the reverse.

The glue will inhibit the stain from soaking in, leaving the glued parts of the structure unstained, if you stain after assembly.

It's advised to stain the individual parts before assembly.

To do this I will put the cut pieces in a zip-top freezer bag, add the stain, seal the bag and thoroughly mix.

With a nitrile gloved hand, I will remove the pieces to a few layers of paper towel to dry. This should be done in a well-ventilated area.

Then I will assemble the structure using a toothpick or similar item to apply the carpenters or wood glue sparingly.

Hope this helps.

[jcopilot]

JJ,

Thanks for your reply.  Your explanation is exactly what I've thought for years - stain first, glue second, stain can't penetrate glue.  But then a friend advised the opposite and I thought I should ask around.

Jeff

[rrebell]

Accually if you use an alcohol stain and the white glue has been wiped off, the stain will still take in the hobby woods we use, true there is little glue residue left after wiping but the fact that it will stain the area is important, now I know not if this is true will thinner based stains.

[Ablebakercharlie]

jjdamnit

To do this I will put the cut pieces in a zip-top freezer bag, add the stain, seal the bag and thoroughly mix.

 

Thanks very much for offering this tip!

I am about to start a Campbell Model ( a post office) and was wondering about a good method to stain all the wood.  

Going to use your suggestion!

charles

 

[jjdamnit]

Hello All,

jcopilot

Thanks for your reply.
Your explanation is exactly what I've thought for years - stain first, glue second, stain can't penetrate glue.

I have to admit I got this info from a forum post, of which I can't remember, nor take credit for.

rrebell

...now I know not if this is true will thinner based stains.

I use MinWax® stains which are mineral spirit based.

Hence the need to use Nitrile gloves (solvent resistant) to handle the stained pieces and allow to dry in a well-ventilated space.

For the look of creosoted wood I use one (1) part of MinWax® Red Mahogany #225 and three (3) parts Ebony #2718 stains.

I let the pieces soak for at least 12-hours.

This method works on woods from Bass to whatever wood coffee stir, "popsicle" and tongue depressor (craft sticks) are made from.

"Craft sticks" are available at Lowe's- -so you don't have to eat lots of frozen treats or raid your doctor's office.

I found stir sticks through Amazon for less than $10.00 for 1,000 so you don't have to pilfer them from your local coffee shop.

Ablebakercharlie

Thanks very much for offering this tip!
I am about to start a Campbell Model ( a post office) and was wondering about a good method to stain all the wood.
Going to use your suggestion!

This method also works well with isopropyl alcohol/India ink washes. To vary the color pull some pieces after an hour or two and allow the others to soak longer- -up to 12- to 24-hours.

Your kind comments are truly appreciated.

Hope this helps.

[Overmod]

Stain in the 'pores' shouldn't severely affect bond strength fir model work.  If you are concerned about bonding you can lightly scrape the contact area before gluing, as you would with a painted surface.

I would avoid any 'one-part' stains that include surface-finish components like varnish or waxes.