Weathering an Atlas Caboose

[B Rutherford]

I have an Atlas caboose that I want to weather with pastels and dullcote.  Trouble is the window glazing is already in. Maskkng with paper tape would be a real cballenge, espdcially on the car ends. Looking for suggestions.  Thanks in advance

[gmpullman]

B Rutherford

Looking for suggestions.

I have used Avery removable labels as masking for passenger, locomotive and caboose windows. Often they are a perfect size for HO windows but they are easily and quickly trimmed. They peel off cleanly. I usually get the smaller price sticker size, there are several sizes available.

Avery_Mask-NYC by Edmund, on Flickr

The rounded corners make them ideal for lightweight passenger cars. They can easily be trimmed while still on the backing sheet.

Avery_Mask-NYC-bay by Edmund, on Flickr

Avery_Mask-NYC-sq by Edmund, on Flickr

   — and for the PRR porthole modeler there's color-coding dots:

Avery_Mask-PRR by Edmund, on Flickr

Actually on some caboose and head-end windows I allow a little matte overspray onto some of the windows. They didn't stay clean for long.

PRR_B60b-detail by Edmund, on Flickr

 

 

Good luck, Ed

 

[BigDaddy]

Been there and have done that and I hate it. 

The people who make Micro Sol and Micro Set make something called:

Micro Mask

I don't recall ever seeing a single post reviewing it.  I would be tempted to run a piece a of tape all the way across the windows and limit my weathering to below that.

editThe OP has been in the forum for 11 years and must know this, but for newbies, Dullcote frosts clear plastic.  That may be desireable if you are modeling a factory, but not if you are modeling a caboose with an interior.

[doctorwayne]

You should be able to use ordinary masking tape:  simply place a strip of it on a suitable hard surface - I do this on a sheet of glass.
You can use calipers to measure the windows, but a draughting compass will work just as well to transfer the measurements to the tape.  Use a straightedge and a sharp blade to cut-out the individual masks, and tweezers to apply them to the windows. 
In most cases, all of the windows in the sides of the body are identical, and both of the ones at the ends (usually in the doors) are similar to one another, but, obviously, usually different from those on the sides.
Cupola windows often come in a variety of sizes and/or shapes, but those on the front and rear will be alike, as will those on the sides of the cupola.

However, if you're going to use pastels for weathering, I can't see any need for the Dullcote, unless you're confusing pastels with chalk.
I have used oil-based pastels for weathering freight cars, and never had a need to clear-coat them...the weathering does not come off with reasonable handling (my cars cycle on- and off-layout regularly, and with careful handling, those weathered with the oil-based pastels are unaffected).
I simple rub the pastel stick over some coarse-ish sandpaper, then dump the resultant "dust" into a suitable container, so that it can be applied with a brush - this lessens the need for covering the windows (unless you're overly enthusiastic during the application).

While I enjoy using the pastels for some cars, I do prefer airbrushing the weathering when doing multiple cars...sometimes up to four dozen in a session.

EDIT:  It occurred to me that if your caboose can be disassembled, you may be able to remove the "window glass", and not need to mask, especially if you wish to apply the Dullcote, too.

Wayne

[B Rutherford]

Thank you everyone for some great potential solutions

Wayne,  I plan to use the MIG modeling pigments and another companies (cant remember the name) self adhering weathering pigments.

As it turns out all of the windows were removed with very little difficulty. Sometimes the simplest solution is right in front of you. Thanks again!