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Questions for Mel about Cary E7 project

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  • Member since
    March 2012
  • 219 posts
Questions for Mel about Cary E7 project
Posted by Lakeshore Sub on Friday, October 22, 2021 1:04 PM

A couple of questions for Mel about putting together the Cary E-7's with the Athearn chasis.

Mel,  I'm at the point on my E7 where I'm try to figure what I need to do to the Athearn SD-40 chasis to mount the Cary body.   A couple of questions.

1) How much of the SD-40 fuel tank did you remove and did you use the skirts that are provided in the kit?  

2) How did you mount the body to the frame?  

Any insights would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Scott Sonntag

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Friday, October 22, 2021 1:54 PM

After seeing Darth Santa Fe’s F7 with real screen over the vents I’m working on a fresh Cary E7 body.

Baring my arthritis problems I will post the body install on a Athearn SD40-2 frame.  Note that the Cary/Bowser instructions say SD40-2T.  I tried one T frame and didn’t like the fit.

I will have to disassemble a finished E7 as my 84 yr old brain can’t remember.

So far I have managed to drill all the .021” holes for the grabs. Only took 5 bits to drill 28 holes in the metal body, not bad for old shaky hands Mel.

I ordered #80 brass screen and it arrived Tuesday and it appears too fine so I ordered some #60.
https://cloverhouse.com/Cart/product_info.php?cPath=46_47&products_id=13760

I’m not sure how accurate your going for but the Cary marker/classification lights are incorrect for a E7.  I’m not a rivet counter and let it go on my earlier E7s, thinking about that on this one.

My fingers don’t want to cooperate this morning, will try later this afternoon to pull a body.


Mel


 
My Model Railroad   
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Friday, October 22, 2021 3:30 PM

For the front mount I used a piece of K&S ¼” wide by .032” thick Brass Strip formed to the curve.  I soldered a small piece of K&S ¼” wide by .062” thick Brass to the curved section and epoxied the curved strap to the body.  I tapped the .062" brass bracket for a 2mm screw through the Athearn coupler mount.



For the rear I drilled and tapped the frame for a 2mm screw and used a short piece pf the ¼” x .062" brass to extend the coupler mount.
.



I made a Styrene filler to go between the body and the Athearn fuel tank, didn’t use the Cary tank cover.  Not prototypical but I’m not a rivet counter. The Athearn SD40 truck frames are wrong for the E7 too.

The A-Line #29300 E-Unit sideframes snap on the Athearn trucks.

The speakers are in Styrene enclosures in all of my E7.

I'm very happy with the header type micro connectors that unplug making the body/shell easily renovable.


Mel


 
My Model Railroad   
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • 219 posts
Posted by Lakeshore Sub on Friday, October 22, 2021 8:37 PM

Thanks so much Mel.   Unfortunately I followed the directions and bought a SD-40T.  Bought the body shell and Sd-40 25+ years ago so I will moved forward from there.

Accuracy isn't critical on this one but I would like be faifly close representation

Looking forward to any other information that you can share.

Scott

 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Friday, October 22, 2021 10:13 PM

The SD40T-2 frame is just a hair over ¼” longer than the SD40-2 so it shouldn’t make much difference.

I can’t remember why I went with the non T other than the non T was easier to find used.

I ended up with a total of 8 SD40-2s, 4 E7As and 4 E7Bs.  The SP only bought 5 E7A so the one I’m working on will be the fifth number 6004.

I only replaced the truck frames on 6000 and it’s E7B mate, it’s hard to tell the difference between the E7 side frames and the SD40 frames unless they are side by side.
 

Mel


 
My Model Railroad   
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • 219 posts
Posted by Lakeshore Sub on Sunday, October 24, 2021 8:11 PM

Thanks for the insights Mel.  They got me thinking.  Got a good start on getting the frame milled/filed to where it fits in the body.    Have to work on shrinking and narrowing  the fuel tank next.

Scott

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • 266 posts
Posted by Ron High on Friday, October 29, 2021 12:08 PM

Don't forget about the Hobbytown E unit chassis still available from Hobbytown

https://hobbytownofboston.com/?page_id=61

117608 E-Unit Power Chassis Kit EMD A-1-A Trucks, w/Flywheel Drive
For A or B unit body shell.   75.00

This is a very nice running chassis

Ron High

 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Friday, October 29, 2021 2:25 PM

I have four of the older Hobbytown E7s with the metal body that I remotored with can motors and they do run very nice.

 

Mel


 
My Model Railroad   
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.

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