Well, this is a new one on me.
I have had several Accurail kits before, as they are very simple to assemble, yet have decent detailing and usually very good paint. And they will work very well with minimal investments. (KD's and metal wheels.)
The last boxes I opened however, the instruction sheet ink rubbed off onto the car bodies, and unfortunately will not wash off, even with a vigorous scrubbing using an old toothbrush with soap and water.
Anyone have any ideas? (Short of repainting the entire thing?)
I thought maybe heavy weathering, but these are pretty new models for my layouts time frame... (Pretty new period actually.)
And of course, the ink is black, and the models (CSX Covered Hoppers) are very light cream colored.
While it *could* be plausable, if weathered just right, it's on all three of the three pack. so I would really need to get imaginative with the explanation... (Especially as it's only on one side of each car body.)
As I said, this is a new one on me, having never before seen this happen.
(But I am now pulling all printed assembly/parts sheets from all model boxes, so that jerk Justin Case can't visit those boxes....)
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
Try a pencil eraser, any scuffing caused by the eraser could be covered with weathering.Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
Hi Ricky W,
Were these new kits, as in unopened? If so, I would suggest approaching Accurail to see about replacements. If this is a packaging problem then Accurail would certainly want to know about it.
If they had previously been opened and any protective wrapping had been removed, then you might be out of luck as far as getting replacements, but it wouldn't hurt to ask. Also, they might have some advice about what to try and what not to.
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/
Since soap and water didn't work, the next thing I would try is alcohol on a paper towel. Obviously you want to apply it very lightly and dry it off quickly.
Good luck,
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Rick,
I agree with Dave: Contact Accurail and explain to them what happened. They may just end up sending you a replacement shell. I approached them about a defective truck in the past and they shipped me replacement (i.e. both) trucks.
And I would NOT try cleaning the shell with a solvent unless Accurail instructs you otherwise.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Thanks for all the tips.
I know for a fact that these were brand new, almost wonder if it was a heat transfer during shipping? Knowing how much these packages tend to get "lightly" tossed and bumped, it would not surprise me.
I have stripped their shells using Isopropyl before, so I would not use anything at all stronger.
In fact, Isopropyl reacts severely with their paint within 15-20 seconds, and leaves a white-ish mark almost immediately. I would be concerned about damaging the finish before it even affected te ink.
I will try the pencil eraser on the one with the least noticable marks, as that one I'm sure if it doesn't work I can hide with weathering.
The other two however had quite a bit more.
I will also contact Accurail, maybe they can at least confirm it's Toner, and they may need to adjust the assembly sheet, maybe folding the ink side in instead of out...
Now to finish pulling the rest of the assembly/parts sheets from my boxes...
I'm going to bet that the residue is from printer/copy toner. Maybe some of the smaller runs of kit instructions were run off on a laser printer. I've seen this happen especially when copied/laser printed pages were placed in protective sheets and the toner reacts to the plastic.
If you Google "remove toner stains" you're suggested to use alcohol. Toner being what it is it may have migrated into the "pores" of the paint. Maybe try lightly wiping the car sides with one of those foil-packed hand wipes you get at the rib joints?
Good Luck, Ed
One wonders if the instruction sheets were hot off the printer when packed with the kits - or maybe the plastic kits themselves were still warm from the plastic die machines? Otherwise it is hard to imagine how this transfer could happen.
I would try highly diluted isopropyl alcohol and a swab (maybe a Q tip but I prefer the more solid swabs or mini brushes that do not shed fibers). What I have learned is that there is a point where suddenly it starts to loosen and remove paint and lettering, which happens less with 70& versus 90%, and even less often with the 50% that WalMart sells cheaply. But you can dilute it yourself with distilled water
Another mild solvent is DioSol or the other liquids meant to make decals snuggle down. Even PineSol the household cleaner might work but again I'd dilute it with distilled water since it has been used as a paint remover.
If you try an eraser I'd go for the softest one in your drawer. True abrasion on plastic is a useful weathering method for an older car but it could stick out like a sore (and very out of scale) thumb on a newer car.
My first instinct would be to try various remedies myself but I do agree that Accurail is a very responsible firm that would make good if this is something they did wrong. At the very least take complete and close up photos of the damage before attempting your next "fix" so that you could show them what you had to work with
Dave Nelson
Is the unwanted marking covering anything you need to keep, any of the actual lettering of the car? If not, I'd suggest Solvaset and a pencil eraser. Work slowly and use a light touch. The Solvaset will remove lettering that's pad-printed on, so I assume it would work for ink also.
As other folks mentioned, I would contact the manufacturer first to see what they say....
Just so everyone can see what I mean -
Accurail Kit issues by Richard W, on Flickr" alt="Accurail Issue" />
This is the lightest transfer car.
The pencil eraser trick Mel mentioned has drastically improved this car. (Enough that it's now assembled.)
After Eraser test by Richard Woodworth, on Flickr" alt="After Eraser" />
The heavier two however still have a bit of a noticable mark. Accurail has not yet responded to the email, but it was just sent today.
Thanks for the tips, and I will update if Accurail has any ideas not mentioned.
Do you have any of these laying around?
https://www.mrclean.com/en-us/shop-products/magic-erasers
(The least aggressive type)
Also, you brought back a memory from my old mechanical drafting days. We had these eraser pouches for cleaning pencil smudges from drawings (pre-CAD )
https://www.draftingsteals.com/catalog-pencil-sharpeners---erasing-supplies-draftman-s-cleaning-pads.html
LastspikemikeToner ink is dissolved by whatever solvent is used in hilighter markers. My guess is isopropyl alcohol.
Perhaps in combination with a light misting of this?
https://www.staples.com/Expo-Dry-Erase-Cleaner-8-oz-81803/product_120741
I suspect that a Magic Eraser would take the lettering along with it.
They can get Sharpie off of painted drywall, which leads me to believe they can be aggressive when they want to be.